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1/4 panel removal??

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by blackls1z, Sep 24, 2005.

  1. blackls1z

    blackls1z Registered Member

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    So far I have the floor removed and the top removed. How do I go about removing the 1/4 panels? Thanks!
     
  2. RustyParts

    RustyParts 1/2 ton status

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    You talking about the bedsides or the metal skin on the bedsides?? If your talking about the bedsides they are bolted to the bedfloor with a couple of spot welds at the front and rear of the bed.

    If you are talking about the outside metal skin that's a different story you will have to drill out all of the spot welds securing the skin to the underlying braces before the skin can be removed.
     
  3. jpdrake

    jpdrake 1/2 ton status

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    how did that work out for you? i need to remove and replace also.
     
  4. Gorillajeep

    Gorillajeep 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I may also be doing this, I had a tree fall on one of mine, before I got it.
     
  5. diaric

    diaric Registered Member

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    lots of us seem to have questions on how to do this. any full answers? i have my new bed sides, and before i start cutting and ripping i wanted to know, what is the best way to access the mount and welds that go up inside the rear door pillar? the new ones tuck up inside the pillar and have a bolt hole. looks like removing the inside panel that has 2 bolts and a lot of spots is the way to go, but want to be sure before taking out a lot of spot welds.
    thanks
     
  6. jpdrake

    jpdrake 1/2 ton status

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    id like to know also but no one seems to be very descriptive there must be another post about it?
     
  7. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Thought I covered this already multiple times over the years...

    a cutoff tool and ripping and chisel blade on an air hammer are all thats needed...

    leave the final trimming cleanup till after you pull the bulk of the qrter... cut a straight line down the front of the qrter, right where it bends 90 to go into the door jamb... cutoff wheel straight back below the top seam then across the bedrail...

    remove bolts and spotwelds on floor and wheelwell.. pre80 trucks are all bolted, post 80 has some spotwelds.... unbolt tailpan from corner post.. you need to either grind or cut the filletweld out at the bottom of the post..

    once you yank 95% of the sheetmetal, go back and final trim the front and clean any spotweld area sheetmetal up...


    [​IMG]

    there are more pics in gallery 2 of my sig.... page 4 and 5 iirc....
     
  8. diaric

    diaric Registered Member

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    ok, sounds easy enough. but how do you gain access where this lip fits in ?
    [​IMG]
     
  9. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    don't bother... cut it off... I've done em both ways, and cutting that off is a little easier..

    look at the truck, leave a 3/4" of the qrter hanging below the seam (as a weld lip), then cut straight across the bedrail where the "post" turns, when you get to the back of that post tab on the new qrter, leave the little "up" flange (drilling the spotwelds out is best, then you plugweld it back to the post on the truck)

    obviously its best to cut the new qrter after final trim of the truck..

    The other way is what your guessing, it's all doublewall panel... you need to run a LONG flat air hammer bit up from behind to get the upper spotwelds on that tab... the easiest way to do this is to relief cut the outer sheetmetal at the corner and peel it back some... weld up the relief cuts after reassembley...

    I did it that way on my current rig, but it is a little more work...
     
  10. jpdrake

    jpdrake 1/2 ton status

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    thats exactly what i wanna know i dont have the time to pull pics to explain but id like the same answer.
     
  11. diaric

    diaric Registered Member

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    ok, thanks, i was thinking about both ways, cotting into the panel and welding up after, as its covered by interior trim. the other was leaving alone and cutting new panel and taking out spot weld on lip of original as it seems to mount on top of bed side at the door post

    i'd tell you how well it worked if my replacement wheel housings fit :( . their shorter and wider than original with the holes not even close to fitting
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2008
  12. metapoint

    metapoint 1/2 ton status

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    I did a quarter a long time ago and don't remember well back that far but where the tail gate was we had to grind out all the body pinch welds and had to do the same in the door jam to the middle door. After that the outer skin just popped right off. So check around the area for pinch welded body seams and grind them or use an air chisel to pop them out.
     
  13. diaric

    diaric Registered Member

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    thanks, but that wasn't the area of concern, tailgate end undone for floorpan. was concerned with hidden connections at the door pillar, up inside/

    anyone have any problems with the rear wheel wells, the new ones appear to be 1/2 inch to wide. the bolt holes not lining up are a different matter.
     
  14. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    did the lower, long flat side get bowed out some? maybe from them having them stacked up in the warehouse or something?

    mine fit perfect...
     
  15. diaric

    diaric Registered Member

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    exactly that from what i see. tried bending it back, but just wants to sit in that position. i'll try again with some wood c clamped to the entire side. the inside to quarter side seems to be a little further our as well.
     
  16. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    yup, thats bodywork and aftermarket parts for ya... usually a little persuasion is required...

    I didn't go into it extensively, but I do cover some qrter panel questions in my thread, if you feel like browsing thru it... They are toward the end of the thread at the bottom of my sig....
     
  17. diaric

    diaric Registered Member

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    thanks, i've gone through a bit of your rebuild, but its so long. lol
    i got it too mostly fit, but here is the big problem
    [​IMG]
    that a quarter inch gap. the inside lip is too far out at the ends. easiest fix looks to be slice it, tuck inside and weld after its mounted

    its a little clearer here
    [​IMG]

    heres how its coming along
    [​IMG]
     
  18. DK5

    DK5 1/2 ton status

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    any updates on this one? how did she turn out?
     
  19. jpdrake

    jpdrake 1/2 ton status

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    ill be doing the same some day and the only thing that worries me is attaching the 1/4's to the cab. and the sheet metal i have to replace in the cab<inner outer rockers, floor pans, sub frame>. im not to concerned about bolting the nos panels together. i plan on stipping it down to just the firewall to the b pillars.
     
  20. DK5

    DK5 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for reminding me about the inner rockers! I should probably get a set of those too. I'm going to strip the interior to see what all needs replaced. Last time I checked the bed floors were in awesome shape and don't need to be touched.

    I'm considering having mine done by pro's though because I don't have the skills, time, or shop to do it at this time. I was going to go through my college's autobody shop, but I'm not sure that it will turn good. This looks like a tricky job and I don't want to risk them ruining my K5 :(

    OTOH I will be having them paint it for just over a grand :D

    Wouldn't it be nice if I could do a step by step write up on what the autobody guys do with pics? I'm not sure they would go for it though...
     

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