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1"a-a-ls

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by muddysub, Jan 10, 2002.

  1. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    1\"a-a-ls

    i know my u-bolts aren't long enough, so how much would new u-bolts cost me? and i have 4" blocks right now (i know, i know, i'm gettin rid of em soon!) would i need new drive shafts if i lift it 1 more inch?

    --Scott, 1989 GMC Suburban 2500 4" lift, 36" TSLs
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/muddysub>http://community.webshots.com/user/muddysub</a>
     
  2. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 1

    hey when u want to get rid of the blocks let me know!
    Nitro

    1987 555 blown nitrous chevy with 44"s
     
  3. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: 1\"a-a-ls

    I paid $24 to have 4 new ubolts made up at a local spring shop. Your driveline should be fine, most can squeeze a 6" lift before problems start happening..You may want to drop your t-case if it is a problem.

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
    When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
    55 Willy's
     
  4. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: 1\"a-a-ls

    thanks Jeremy!

    when i get rid of my blocks they're yours.

    --Scott, 1989 GMC Suburban 2500 4" lift, 36" TSLs
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/muddysub>http://community.webshots.com/user/muddysub</a>
     
  5. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 1\"a-a-ls

    The is nothing wrong with rear blocks, at all.
    Fronts are the problem.

    Actaully with rear blocks you get better flex than if you went all spring. I will stick with my blocks for a while.

    Ken H.


    '86 K5 in parts
    1-ton 454 44 TSLs
     

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