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1 ton Brakes

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by txfireman110, Mar 6, 2004.

  1. txfireman110

    txfireman110 1/2 ton status

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    When I do the 1 ton swap, will it eliminate the braking problems that I have heard about when someone puts the 14ff in w/o the D60? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    Also, I plan to go to discs on the 14ff but maybe not right away so what will it do both ways?

    Last ?; Do I need to swap in a one ton master cylinder??
    Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gifeace
     
  2. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    what braking problems are you refering to?
     
  3. bigyellowjimmy

    bigyellowjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Im running a 14FF (drum brakes) with my stock manual master cylinder, no problems....you should be fine to run with drums with your existing brake system as far as I know. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    whoever you hear that from dont listen to them anymore
     
  5. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    The only braking problem related to a 14FF is the stop you make when they tell you how much a friggin drum is. And then they have the nerve to tell you that is not for the pair. The only probelem found so far is with 4 wheel disks needing more fluid. You can just use a bigger master cylinder for that though.
     
  6. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    Brandon,

    Bolt it all up, bleed the brakes and test it out. When we did the swap the only problem was getting the whole system bled properly, after that everything functioned properly.
     
  7. txfireman110

    txfireman110 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    what braking problems are you refering to?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I was refering to a few posts saying that the bigger back brakes would lock up prior to the front! /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    PS-Thanks for the replies
     
  8. K5er4Life

    K5er4Life 1/2 ton status

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    It seems that everyone has different experiences when they do the swap, some like they way it stops and some dont. And most do say that the rear does tend to lock up before the front. You can always change the brake bias with an adjustable proportioning valve, like a Wilwood
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I just bled my brakes and drove it for the first time with 1 tons and discs. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif No problems with the stock 1/2 ton master.
     
  10. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    i think it should be fine, however, if you convert it to disc, i imagine you will have to get rid of your proportioning valve, which sends more power to the drums because they require more power to be effective, and another valve called something like a delay valve (if i think about it ill look it up tomorrow) which sends power to the rear drums before the fronts so they will in turn activate simultaneously, since drums are slower too. but ive never done the conversion, it just makes sense to do that...
     
  11. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]

    Bolt it all up, bleed the brakes and test it out.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That is good advice. Before I did my D44/14BFF swap, I did alot of reading and determined that the best route was to swap axles and see what kind of brakes I end up with. I gravity bled the rear brakes (I reused the front calipers, so no front bleeding was needed) and then went for a ride. I had great brakes. Even with the discs, no prop valve was necessary. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     

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