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10 bolt ball joints

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by plk33, Oct 10, 2001.

  1. plk33

    plk33 Registered Member

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    The front ball joints in my 87 10 bolt have quite a bit of play. No enough to see the tires sitting canted inward but there is quite a bit of play when I jack it up and try to wiggle the tire. Its not the front wheel bearings loose, it is the ball joints. My repair manual talked about an adjusting sleave so I took one of the upper ball joint nuts off and there was a sleave under there with four slots. Apparently if I screw the sleave down it will take up some of the play in the ball joints or when installing new ball joints you use this to take all the play out. I made a socket to fit the slots on the sleave and had at it with my impact. Both forward and reverse. It is stuck (rusted) big time. I am considering using heat to heat up the area of the knuckle arount the sleave, but am concerned about removing and heat tempering that the original knuckle has. Has any one else had this problem? If so how did you get these adjusting sleaves loose?

    Thanks
     
  2. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    Actually they wont adjust at all they are a set up only deal ,you need to replace them.Replace them with moog parts only otherwise to grease the upper you have to remove the axle shaft on moog the zirt fitting points back at an angle after install just on the side of the joint.

    88k5 silverado w4"lift <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.11
     
  3. yeild2me

    yeild2me 1/2 ton status

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    i had the exact prob on my dana 44. i soaked the $hit out of it with wd-40, and turned it back and forth little by little. letting it soak overnight, but it finally came out. not too practical if you need your truck now, but thats what i did. the moog ball joints will come with a new sleeve, and mine threaded right back in.

    remember-it will screw out either way, so if the top is in really bad shape due to water staying there, try to turning it to the right so it will unscrew throught the bottom. the threads usually are in better shape on the down side.

    good luck .........rob

    350 TBI, 700R-4, NP241, D44-14FF, 4:10's, 38.5 TSL/SX's, full conv., full cage
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.yeild2me.rockcrawler.com>www.yeild2me.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Did you take the nuckle off? If you are trying to loosen the adjuster w/o taking the nuckle off you might have a prob like you are having. The adjuster is split down the side and tapered. When the nuckle is on it will be very tough to get it to move.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
     
  5. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    You shouldn't try heat or you might end up hosing the joint. Where is the excessive play? In the joint itself, or the stud that gos into the axle yoke? If it's the stud, you may be able to adjust it, but if it's the joint it's just worn and should be replaced. It'll probably be the upper joint, and since you'll have the knuckle apart, it'd be a good idea to do the lower joint at the same time.

    Definately get the right replacement joints! I got whatever they handed me over the counter, and now I have to yank the axle to grease that puppy... Needless to say, I don't grease it often...

    Ratch
    <a target="_blank" href=http://k5.8m.com>k5.8m.com</a>
    Welcome to America.
     
  6. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Just do yourself a favor and replace the ball-joint. Once you get the joint out the adjustment sleeve will come out with ease.

    Surgeon General's Warning:
    Viagra and steroids may be harmful to your spouse![​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     

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