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10 bolt building

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by new2k5, Jan 4, 2003.

  1. new2k5

    new2k5 1/2 ton status

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    to start off i have a 87 blazer at. that i plan to use for moderate (as in class 4 to low 5) wheelin ocassionally but mostly as my DD huntin, campin, hanging out in the woods vehichle. i am not heavy on the stupid pedal and will probably never go bigger than 35's since pa lift laws keep getting tougher. that being said what i am thinking of doing is getting my axels rebuilt with 456 gears and upgradeing to the newer 30 spline axel shafts front and rear along with some warn hubs to eliminate those stupid auto hubs. given my situation will i have to worry about axel failure. i know most will say at least throw a 14 bolt in the rear. there are 2 reasons i dont want to do that one its got a big ole pumkin meaning lose of ground clearnce and 2 all the junk yards in a 50 mile radius iof me are clean out em except one but they want me to buy the whole truck /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. new2k5

    new2k5 1/2 ton status

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    also what size nuckle joints do 10 bolts have? can i use ox trax joints or cheaper the 760's used on the jeep rubicon?
     
  3. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Some more tips for ya, run an aftermarket carrier and shafts, those are the two week points of the stock rear end. On the front end I would also replace the stock shafts or keep extra with you when your off roading. You can also use the search feature to find the joint size.
     
  4. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    I don't think that changing to 30 spline axles will offer that much more strength. sure the axle shaft will be stronger, but the 30 spline carrier is a bit weaker than the 28 spline. I have definately found the carrier to be the weak link in the rear and the u-joints in the front. My $.02: Randy's R&P just came out with cromo front shafts for about $300 stub to stub, use full circle clips to hold the u-joint caps in, leave the front diff open and call that end good. In the rear get cromo shafts (mosers are $225 a pair) and a good carrier either a quality limited slip or a detroit locker and call that done. If you plan to build them up over time to soften the blow on your wallet, 1/2 ton is easier but more expensive in the end, but if you plan to build them all at once (although I am a strong supporter of 1/2 ton axles) go with 3/4 or 1 ton axles, they will be cheaper (and stronger) in the end.
     
  5. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Have you looked into a 12 bolt?
     
  6. new2k5

    new2k5 1/2 ton status

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    what would i find a 12 bolt under? i looked at 3/4 ton trucks and they had semi floater 14's
     
  7. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    See if you can find a 14SF or a 12 bolt.

    The weakest part on a 10 bolt/Dana 44 is the carrier and ring & pinion in my experience. If you go lower than 4.11 you're going to be prone to spitting teeth off the ring gear. Open differential carriers tend to crack and spider gears like to go AWOL (I learned that a NP208 will drag my truck 110 miles at 60mph because the spiders in the back of my truck blew). Up front, wheel universals like to break or ears like to bend on the axle shafts if you've got stout universals. Stub shafts get ruined too because of the axle shafts getting ruined.

    I know what you mean about having a hard time finding axles for a reasonable price. I've been trying to find a front 6 or 8 lug 10 bolt or Dana 44 with 3.73s in it for months. So far, it's been cheaper to buy a whole truck.
     
  8. new2k5

    new2k5 1/2 ton status

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    well i found someone close to me with a d60 front and ff14 with a detroit rear both with 456 for 1500 thats less than i would pay to build my 10 bolts. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif so i am scrapeing funds together and sellin anything i can. it just sucks i'll have to buy new wheels and tires and a lift all at the same time. i guess i better get a second job at the sperm bank /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     

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