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10 bolt carrier and spider gears. What are they made of?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by weisel, Sep 15, 2003.

  1. weisel

    weisel 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to weld it up and need to know with what to weld it? Is any of it cast iron? Will a wire feed work? (It is a kick a$$ wire feed) What did everyone else weld theirs up with?
     
  2. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    10 bolt carrier and spider gears. What are they made of?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Some say cream cheese. Others say milquetoast. Me, I'm not sure.

    HOWEVER, I can say with nearly absolute certainty that if you DO weld up the spiders in that 10B (assuming it's a rear axle), you'll get intimately familiar with one of the following procedures:
    1. Gutting the housing and cleaning out the metal shavings, chips, and chunks resulting from a broken carrier.
    2. Recovering your truck on 3 wheels after you snap an axleshaft and that wheel departs the vehicle.
    3. Removing the entire axle assembly and replacing it after something internal breaks, then the pinion gear decides it wants to be OUTSIDE the housing.

    If you need a locked axle that bad, and you really want to keep the 10B, then get a full-carrier Detroit Locker and some heavy-duty axleshafts (Moser Engineering is a good source, and I think ORD makes them for the rear too). Convert it to disc brakes (again, assuming it's a rear axle) to help retain the wheel if one of those stout shafts should break.
     
  3. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    my carrier looked like it was made of potmetal=cheap crap...taiwanese lookin govlock garbage :X
     
  4. weisel

    weisel 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry, I should have posted that it is a front axle. If it breaks, oh well, I have a spare. I plan on unlocking one wheel so I can turn and so it woun't bind a ton. Then locking it for the hard stuff.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    You'll break it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  6. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    99% chance you'll grenade it if you run bigger than 33" rubber. Those carriers just aren't designed to be under full bind without the tires slipping or something going on. The problem is the fatigue, especially once you weld on it. Chances are you'll bend the ears on the stubshafts first but it is only a matter of time before the carrier breaks.

    The carrier is a very soft metal, I don't know what kind. It's not brittle like the case. I think you could weld the side gears in if you removed the metal washer behind it and ground on the side gears a bit to give you a spot to weld it to the carrier. Welding the spiders to the carrier is a bad idea. Keep in mind (only if you choose to do this on the back as well as the front) if you weld the pin in you won't be able to get the c-clips on. You'll need to heat the carrier up before you weld it because I've seen what happens when you try to weld on those carriers. A 185amp MIG using argon left booger welds.

    I think welding a 10 bolt carrier is a bad idea. Either try a minispool first or a full spool. I have a lot of faith in a 10 bolt carrier, especially one that has been polished, but they're still weak. Welding on it will only make it worse. That's why I suggest a minispool.

    Here is what a carrier looks like after it munches on some spiders:
    http://www.wrath.com/projects/vehicles/images/84k10/blownspidergears-112202/carriercarnage1.jpg
    http://www.wrath.com/projects/vehicles/images/84k10/blownspidergears-112202/carriercarnage2.jpg
     

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