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10 bolt pinion replacement

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rh88k5, Jan 25, 2003.

  1. rh88k5

    rh88k5 Registered Member

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    can anyone tell me how hard it is to replace the ring and pinion in a 10 bolt? I have alot of backlash. What would a good rear shop charge to do it?
     
  2. 95 Silverado

    95 Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    What do you mean by backlash? Pull the rear cover and look at the gear contact surfaces. If they are clean and smooth, not pitted, you probably don't have a ring and pinion problem. The cage side bearings or spider gears have probably worn and are causing the excessive play. Take the cover off and see where the backlash is coming from. If it's been bad for a long time the whole rear may be trashed and it will be cheaper and easier to buy a used housing of the same ratio and swap it in, just be careful what you're buying so you don't end up with the same thing.
     
  3. Muley

    Muley 1/2 ton status

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    I will second that. I was looking at nearly $300.00 to fix mine. So I soent $200.00 for a 14FF.
     
  4. rh88k5

    rh88k5 Registered Member

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    The backlash I mentioned is ecessive rotational play in the yoke at the pinion, I've heard of shimming to remove backlash, does that work? Is it alot of work to replace the ring and pinion?
     
  5. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Shims are used to decrease the backlash, but if it's been running with too much for very long then it's hosed. Replacing the R&amp;P isn't relly alot of work, but it takes alot of attention to detail and gobs of patience. </font color>
     
  6. rh88k5

    rh88k5 Registered Member

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    I've only had this k5 since Sept., when I bought it I noticed the pinion seal had been leaking awhile, now its klunking pretty good.I'm not interested in beefing it up, I just want it reliable. Thanks for the replies
     
  7. 95 Silverado

    95 Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    the problem is, if the rear was set-up correctly at one time and it has developed this excessive play, something has worn inside to cause it, changing the shims won't correct the worn parts. Sometimes the pinion yoke nut will come loose, which allows the pinion to move around, if caught in time, tightening the nut will restore the settings, but if the problem is caused by something loose inside the rear it needs checked out soon.
     
  8. rh88k5

    rh88k5 Registered Member

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    pinion nut was and is still loose, i snugged it abit with impact gun, but how tight should it be , ive heard of using a torque multiplier, any advice?
     
  9. 95 Silverado

    95 Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    The pinion nut draws against the yoke which draws against the outer bearing which draws against the crush collar which draws against the inner bearing which draws against the head of the pinion. The crush collar is a solid tube that establishes the spacing between the two bearings to adjust them to the bearing races which are in the housing. When setting the gears up for the first time tightening the pinion nut draws everything together to "crush" the collar to bring it down to the correct size, once that setting is obtained it should not be necessary to change it. Torque the nut on the yoke to about 100 ft. lbs., it's not recommended to use an impact wrench to do this as you could overtighten it and change the crush collar setting, this should tighten up all the parts but not be enough to crush the collar any further. this should remove any freeplay in the yoke and pinion bearings. if the nut and yoke seem tight on the pinion but there is still freeplay in the bearings one of them is probably going bad and needs replaced. It will require new bearings and a new crush sleeve and seal, along with total disassembly of the rear end.
     

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