Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

10 Bolt strength?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Marshall, Dec 2, 2002.

  1. Marshall

    Marshall 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2002
    Posts:
    204
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    LiveRmore,CA
    I have been wanting to put rear disc brakes on my 10 bolt but im not sure because i might want more strength in the future, could i run 33"-35" tires on a 10 bolt safely,without breaking my rear end. If not, does anyone know where i could find a 12 bolt or a 14 bolt rear for a 1987 GMC Jimmy.Thanks for any help that you can provide.

    350/10Bolt/208/31's

    Thanks,Marshall
     
  2. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    277
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Colorado
    Well, I field this one.
    I also have an '87 Jimmy and having recently replaced my 10 for a 12, I feel obliged to send you a few suggestions. I chose a 12 because I couldn't find a 14 semi-floater 6-lug axle ANYWHERE, and although I should of, I couldn't justify the expense of putting in an 8-lug full-floater. For now, I don't plan on running anything larger than 33's, and unfortunately there aren't any narly trails for me to truly test my axles strength anyway. I do pull a rather large boat, however and from everything I've heard (from this site and elsewhere), a 12 bolt should be sufficient. So, as many will say, it depends on how you plan to use your truck. Daily driver? 10 bolt is fine. Frequent four-wheeling or tires 35 and bigger you want something more. I think most people here will argue that if you're gonna spend the time (and money), put in a 14-bolt. In some circumstances, though, that could be overkill (but too much is a good thing).
    Personally, I wouldn't spend one cent more on your 10bolt. A 12 bolt will be better and you might still be able to find a full-floating conversion kit for it, but if you want real strength or plan on 35 or bigger tires, find a 14.
    I found my 12 bolt in a juck yard off of a '79 c10 for $150. I couldn't find anything with the correct gears and I couldn't afford to wait so I had to also have gears put in. After all was said and done I coulda bought a 14, but again, I'd still of had to convert the front.
    Hope I helped.
    smack
     
  3. hawglet

    hawglet 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2000
    Posts:
    265
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hastings,NE
    I still run a 10 bolt with 33's but I did blow it up. The Ring and Pinion and the spiders and spider pin which in turn took out the carrier. I put a new carrier gears and a locker in it and I think it is plenty strong for me. But it does all depend on what you use it for. I very seldom tow. It's mostly a daily driver that likes to see mud when it rains. I love it but in most circumstances a 12 or if possible a 14 bolt is the way to go if your off of the road much or tow much wieght very often.
     
  4. Marshall

    Marshall 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2002
    Posts:
    204
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    LiveRmore,CA
    yea.....My truck is pretty much used for a daily driver that likes the mud and sometimes goes to the mountians.I think i might stick with the 10 bolt.The 10 bolt is running 3.73 gears and has a Gov-Lock locker, I think it should be sufficant. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    10Bolt/350/208/31"s

    Thanks,Marshall /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  5. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2001
    Posts:
    5,634
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Escondido, CA
    im in a snide mood tonight. so just go with this....

    10 Bolt + strength = HA HA HA HA HA...
    ok, im kidding. i have never broken one, but i also have never had one....
    ask Bubba Ray. he is a 10 bolt freak. ok i lied. he is a freak, but faithfull to his 10 bolts.
    Grant
     
  6. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    For your application I would go with the 10 bolt.
    The 12 bolt isn't that much stronger, it's stronger in some places and weaker in others.
    If you feel you need the stronger axle go with a 14 bolt, but I would say, stay with this one and if it breaks then you know you need a stronger one.
    I always say: if it ain't broken don't fix it.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    I run 35" on my 12 bolt rear in my K5, and in my rear D44 in my Full size Jeep.
    No problems in 2 years.
    I mostly do Rocks on the Rubicon and the Likes.
     
  7. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    1,114
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    illinois
    ok i blew my gov-loc 10 bolt right out of my 87 K10 with 33X12.50's, but i also beat the hell out of it and i had a sm465 and i liked to start out in granny on the pavement and chirp the tires /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif, i replaced it with a 12 bolt open diff, but i got it for free, and i was lucky it had the right gears /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif one helluvadeal /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif.

    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  8. Marshall

    Marshall 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2002
    Posts:
    204
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    LiveRmore,CA
    Yea....the thing is i am not sure if my 10 bolt locker is in bad shape. I know i have a Gov-Lock and when i spin the wheels they spin in opposite direction. I was told that it has worn clutches or something like that, but im not sure if thats completly true. I opened up the diff. cover and changed the oil it looked ok. There is also no noise coming from it, so im not sure if it really a problem.Let me know if it is really a problem and if i should get it replaced,and what would i replace it with.I would appriciate any help.

    Thanks,Marshall /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

    350/10Bolt/208/3.73/31"s
     
  9. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Are you sure you have the Gov lock, you could have the clutch type limited slip.
    You said you checked it when you changed the oil, what did you see?
    I had a K5 with factory limited slip, and it was great for 6 years then it started to slip a little, so I changed the gear oil and I made sure I got the best limited slip specific oil, and it was fine.
    It never gave me trouble and I beat the heck out of it.
    Now I have a different K5 with a locker in the back so I take it easy and only do rock crawling not racing.
    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,982
    Likes Received:
    190
    Location:
    Roy WA
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I know i have a Gov-Lock and when i spin the wheels they spin in opposite direction.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That right there screams "no way in hell". Sell the 10 bolts while they are still together, and get the 3/4 ton stuff, THEN beat the hell out of it.

    10 bolts aren't strong in the first place, couple that with the weak gov-lock, and a propensity to use a lot of throttle with big tires, and you will blow the carrier apart.

    Seriously, go easy on it, get the 3/4 ton stuff, and recoup some of the money on the 10 bolts. At least around here, people are always needing axles, and one with a "locker" in it, people are all over them.

    Yes, it is operating correctly by spinning opposite directions, if you can spin the wheel fast enough, it will lock up.
     
  11. hawglet

    hawglet 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2000
    Posts:
    265
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hastings,NE
    I have the Loc-Right with 3.73 gears also, I myself have no experience wiith the Gov-Lock but I have heard of alot
    of guys complaining about it though. I have had my Loc- Right in for a little over 2 years and it's showing no sign of
    wear, Yet(now that I say that it will probably blow to pieces), but I would suggest not going with a 12 bolt only
    because if you are worried about strenght you just as well go with the 14 bolt because of the strength gap between
    the 10 and 12 isn't that great but between the 12 and 14 or the 10 and 14 is HUGE!! Why spend money twice
    and go through the hassle twice. Myself in your situation; try to find a 14bt. for a decent price, I couldn't even find
    a 12 under 800 in my area when my 10bt. blew plus they all had the wrong gears, if you can't find anything in
    good price the Loc-Right Locker is great if you do alot of pavement with some mud and snow. Another benefit is
    that it is CHEAP. I got mine from Randy's Ring and Pinion for I think 125 bucks and then I also bought a high
    strength ring&amp;pinion, spiders, and spider pin (pinion shaft) and a buddy happened to have three carriers laying
    around(the best deal ever FREE).Plus I just went ahead and bought a a complete bearing set since I was pretty
    sure that they had metal fragments in them. I thikn my total bill with them at the time (2 yrs. ago) was just under
    $500. Very easy install also, after you read teh directions on the locker a few times and then through them out.
    They suck and are written poorly. Hope this helps.
     
  12. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    2,273
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    OKLAHOMA
    If it were me, I would go up to 8 lug 3/4 ton gear. Sure you've got to buy new wheels, so what. We are truck guys, we like to buy new stuff for our rig anyway. The disc brake conversion is easy on a 14ff, so is the install.

    I've been in your shoes, I ran 10's under my rig for 3 years. That all ended when I blew the R/P out on my way home. I'd had enough. I went big.
    If all you are going to do is mud and some mountain driving, then I would STILL go big. Just for the peace of mind you get when you are up in the mountains not worrying about tearing up the rear end. In all honesty, if you had to ask the question, then you have your doubts too.

    Here's the breakdown on what my 3/4 ton swap cost.
    -$100 -- Complete 3/4 ton truck
    -$250 -- Disk Brakes for 14
    -$100 -- Misc stuff (u-joints, U bolts brake hard line etc)
    -$300 -- 5 Wheels
    -$700 -- 5 New Tires
    +$100 -- Sold motor from 3/4 ton truck
    +$100 -- Sold other bits and peices

    Grand Total, $1250. I also know that it can be done a LOT cheaper than that. Especially if you already have the tires that you like.

    The axles I got had 4.10 gears in them. That saved a gear swap (although one is in the works now for even BIGGER tires /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif)

    I would never go back to 1/2 ton. The closest I will EVER get will be a SF 14 in the back.

    When you step up, chances are that you will get axles with 4.10's That will be a lot better on your truck than the 3.42's or 3/73's running a 33-35" tire.

    Overall, I think it's a win/win to upgrade. If nothing else, it's new stuff for the truck /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    KP
     

Share This Page