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10 bolt

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rivermtnman, Jan 15, 2004.

  1. rivermtnman

    rivermtnman 1/2 ton status

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    I just lost a bid for a D60 w/spicer LS and a 14 bolt w/ Detroit locker both with 4.56 gears from a truck with 34k(military) on it. I went $1350, it sold for $1500. It was close enough for me to drive and pick it up.

    Anyway, friend of mine says just regear the 10 bolts. Got 3.42's want to put 4.10's in em. Want to go with 33" Swampers.

    My set has a gov lock in the rear. I've heard this makes a gear swap more difficult??

    Do y'all think I should:

    A) Do a gear swap in 10B's (I've never done this, but want to learn how badly)

    B) Find a set of used 4.10 10B and swap them out ( I have done this to an old 72 K5 I restored years ago) But 4.10 10B's are a little difficult to find locally.

    C) Not waste my money, keep what I have, until I am prepared to go with D60/14B

    I've read alot of your comments about this subject, and alot of people care nothing for 10B's. But keep in mind, its not a daily driver, but I dont go off-road but 4 or 5 times a year. I don't climb rocks!! More mud than anything. And last but not least if I would of got the bid on those axles it would have maxed my budget out.

    The 4.56's are a bit too low I think, because I don't want any tire larger than 33's and want to put 2-3" lift on it. I just want a "capable" 4x4.

    What ya think? Thanks!!
     
  2. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Keep the 3.42s and the 10 bolts and invest in lockers.
     
  3. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    If you don't go wheeling that much and not running big tires why spend all that money on a D60, just put a 14 bolt in the back and an 8 lug 10 bolt or D44 in the front. That combo should be a lot cheaper and easier to find.
     
  4. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    If you are keeping your gov loc get it serviced . I thought mine was OK and it broke BADLY Oct 29th. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you are mud running, I agree with the 14 bolt swap.
    Re-gearing the 10 bolts is going to run you $200 MINIMUM (just for gears, and probably $100 more than that even, plus other parts) and that gov-lock is WORTHLESS in high wheelspeed situations, which is what mudding is all about. It not only unlocks when the vehicle is moving slowly, it ALSO *unlocks* when the wheelspeed exceeds approx. 20MPH.
     
  6. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    If you don't go wheeling that much and not running big tires why spend all that money on a D60, just put a 14 bolt in the back and an 8 lug 10 bolt or D44 in the front. That combo should be a lot cheaper and easier to find.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I agree, if you just want to run 33's and don't go wheelin' much than you really shouldn't need a Dana 60 front axle. The 14-bolt rear axle probably wouldn't be a bad idea since you want to regear anyway. You should be able to pick up a 14FF with 4.10s for less than what is would cost to regear the 10-bolt, plus you would never have to worry about replacing the axle again if you decided to go bigger in the future.

    For the front you could regear to 4.10 and swap over to 8-lugs, but again you could probably buy a complete 4.10 8-lug 10-bolt cheaper and just swap the whole thing in.

    Again, the advantage of doing this is that if you want to go bigger in the future (which most people do /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif), you won't need to sell the 10-bolts and buy the 14FF anyway. Also, if you did go for the front 60 in the future you would already have the 8-lug wheels and matching 8-lug rear axle.
     
  7. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    OK, I'll elaborate on my post.

    I don't suspect you'll break anything in a 10 bolt even with 35s unless you are really hard on the throttle. I've been hard on the throttle with 33s and LockRights and have yet to break anything. That doesn't mean I won't.

    A shaved 14 bolt on 36s has the same ground clearance as a 10 bolt on 33s. A 14 bolt, with disc swap, still adds 200lbs of unsprung weight to your truck. A 14 bolt is 8 lug so either you have to swap out the front hubs for 8 lug ones, run different wheels front and rear, or machine the hubs and axle shafts down in the back.

    Now if you plan on running a larger tire, plan on getting stupid with some 33x15.50s instead of standard TSLs, or plan on hitting something with a lot of traction with the tires spinning at 35mph then I'd go 14 bolt.

    As far as gearing, do you really need to regear it? Would going to 4.10s really make such a difference in low range for what you do?

    I'd definitely get rid of the GovLoc though. It's not a matter of if they grenade, it's when they grenade. I'd probably swap it out for an open carrier and put a LockRight in it and the front axle. I'm more than happy with my 3.42s and LockRights. If I had the money I'd have put a selectable locker in the front though but then again I'd never put that kind of money into a 10 bolt. Limited-slip would be ideal in the front for daily-drivability but nothing beats the traction of a locker.
     
  8. rivermtnman

    rivermtnman 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the advice everyone! I really like the comment about clearance from a 14b vs 10b Cyber (glad you elaborated). I had read you lose about an 1" with a 14b.

    I dont mind the power of the tbi w/3.42 and 32's, but like I said earlier, I restored a '72 years ago, put a new set of 33 TSL's w/ 3.08's and swapped to a set of 4.10's and wow /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif what a difference. Just think I would really feel the difference with this ride.

    Never had any problems with any of the 10 to 15 Chevy 10b's I've owned thru the years, even the ones I had in my school years that I felt I dogged (4 wheelin weekly, smokin tires on pavement, etc).

    Alot of 4 wheelin I do now is getting back to favorite hunting/fishing spots. But I know a stock 4x4 with open diffs sucks. And yes that gov lock at about 15-20 mph quits switching sides in the snow. You have to "feather" the pedal just to get it to switch.

    I think I'm glad I didn't get the bid on the D60/14b. Probably too much for my application. But would still like to regear for performance and towing. Anybody swapping gears locally need any help?

    I went to Anderson, SC a couple of years ago to the 4wheel jamboree. Never saw such breakage on the rock crawl challenge in my life.

    I don't think I would go any larger than 33 TSL's (had several sets /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) and state lift laws are not going to allow too much more anyway.

    Thanks again!
     
  9. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    "In My Opinion" If all your doing is some mild wheeling, hunting camp stuff, If the 10 bolts are in decent shape, I don't think You would have a problem. Some of it will depend on HOW you drive it! New gears can run you a couple hudred bucks. But check around for used stuff. On some of my "budget" trucks, I will look for used gears. The most common, and best looking are the front gears many of us pull out to go bigger!! Most front gears don't get used much and often show no wear. I have found them for 25-40 bucks! Depending on what series carrier you have, a ring gear spacer may be needed. another 30.00. A gov lock or locker makes no Difference as to the actual installation of the gears. Do you plan on doing gears swap yourself? If not, check out some other VA K5'ers. maybe someone else can help you. I would look at a good eaton type posi for the rear.
     
  10. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I just lost a bid for a D60 w/spicer LS and a 14 bolt w/ Detroit locker both with 4.56 gears from a truck with 34k(military) on it. I went $1350, it sold for $1500. It was close enough for me to drive and pick it up.

    Anyway, friend of mine says just regear the 10 bolts. Got 3.42's want to put 4.10's in em. Want to go with 33" Swampers.

    My set has a gov lock in the rear. I've heard this makes a gear swap more difficult??

    Do y'all think I should:

    A) Do a gear swap in 10B's (I've never done this, but want to learn how badly)

    B) Find a set of used 4.10 10B and swap them out ( I have done this to an old 72 K5 I restored years ago) But 4.10 10B's are a little difficult to find locally.

    C) Not waste my money, keep what I have, until I am prepared to go with D60/14B

    I've read alot of your comments about this subject, and alot of people care nothing for 10B's. But keep in mind, its not a daily driver, but I dont go off-road but 4 or 5 times a year. I don't climb rocks!! More mud than anything. And last but not least if I would of got the bid on those axles it would have maxed my budget out.

    The 4.56's are a bit too low I think, because I don't want any tire larger than 33's and want to put 2-3" lift on it. I just want a "capable" 4x4.

    What ya think? Thanks!!

    [/ QUOTE ] You may want to consitter 3/4 ton axles. I bought a set (14 Bolt FF rear / Dana 44 front) with 3.73 gears for a whole whopping $250.00. If you're not going larger then 33's, I don't see any need for a Dana 60. Probley don't need the 14 Bolt FF either, but I think swaping in the 3/4 tons is cheaper then regearing the 10 bolters. (Most 3/4 tons will have 3.73 or 4.10 gears.)
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I agree with Z3PR. 3/4 ton stuff is the way to go. I got my axles for free and have been trashing them for two years. Finally going to a D60 front as I'm sick of tearing up the front end (with 38.5s, I was fine with 35s for the whole time I owned them).

    If you re-gear ANY axle, go to at least 4.56. You'll be disappointed if you spend all that money to go to 4.10 to run 33s and then decide to go to a 35 and all of a sudden you don't have enough gear.
     
  12. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    Normally I would agree with the d60/14ff theory, But if your only gonna run 33's, with the bigger axels your gonna lose a ton of ground clearance. Depending on how the truck is driven, The 10 bolts can last. One of my other trucks, an 87, had 3.42's and 33's. This was my camping, 4 wheelin truck for a couple years. Never had problems with it. Just wish I had a locker/posi in rear. When I got a little crazier with the 76, I went to 3/4 tons, But also had 40's on it. I guess your really gonna need to "be true" to yourself and decide what kind of wheeling your gonna end up doing. This is a disease, Most of us want more, and more, and... well more!! I guess thats why I have 3 of these freakin trucks now!
     
  13. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    deeper gears are great, 3.07 and 2.73 and such garbage is for the birds,

    good luck
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    deeper gears are great, 3.07 and 2.73 and such garbage is for the birds,

    good luck

    [/ QUOTE ]

    lol!! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    So true!
     
  15. rivermtnman

    rivermtnman 1/2 ton status

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    I think I'll hold off on the D60/14B's. I just want a little more than stock.
    Yes it is a disease, your always wanting more, just right now it's "a little more". I'll keep a look out for a 3/4T 14B. Not ready to do anything until the weather warms up anyway. Just planning my summer project a little early and wanting the expertize of CK5 members.
    This website is awesome! The motto should be "ColoradoK5, The next best thing to actually doing it!!"
    Thanks for the info. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]

    This website is awesome! The motto should be "ColoradoK5, The next best thing to actually doing it!!"
    Thanks for the info. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    so true also /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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