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10b govlock

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bear76, Jan 17, 2007.

  1. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    Is it possable to remove the gov. lock and run open or replace it with another locker? Also, what is a good strong aftermarket axel shaft for the same 10b?

    No, no 14bff or sf replies please.
     
  2. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    Gov-bombs can't be modified. You have to replace the whole carrier. I'm sure somebody on here will gladly give you an open carrier for a 10b (I have three just waiting for scrap day).
    From there you can run open or add a lunchbox locker.

    Alternately, you can go with an ARB, Electrac, Truetrac, Zexel or Detroit that will replace the entire carrier and swap over your ring gear.

    I think Warn makes CM shafts.

    edit: There is one thing you can do one thing to gov-bombs: "lincoln locker" (weld it up)
     
  3. big dan

    big dan 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    superior makes some pretty good shafts and they are fairly cheap. also moser makes decent stuff but Ive heard that their warranties and customer service suck. I think the superiors have like a 5 year warranty and will replace the shaft if you break one but I could be wrong. I plan on running a set when I lock the 12b in my dd/trail rig. kept the 14bff for my hardcore rig.:D
     
  4. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    Is it hard to replace the carrier? Do you have re-set the backlash or is it unbolt take out replace and bolt it backup?

    Thanks.
     
  5. onetonbb74

    onetonbb74 1/2 ton status

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    you must r and r the carrier and reset the backlash, pinion depth, and side to side. Its like installing new ring and pinion. The only time that you do not need to reset all that stuff is if you were reinstalling the same carrier on the same gears and you never touched the pinion.
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You only have to reset the backlash. The new carrier isn't going to move the pinion depth requirement. That's a function of the housing in relationship with a particular gearset. The centerline of the axle shafts and carrier bearings has to remain the same regardless of carrier used, so the pinion depth doesn't change.

    Swapping a carrier isn't too difficult. Check the backlash before you begin and make a note of it. Swap the ring gear to the new carrier. Install the new carrier and adjust until you have the same backlash as before. Make sure the bearing preload is good, then close it up and fill it up with gear lune.
     
  7. Confedneck79K30

    Confedneck79K30 3/4 ton status

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    is there a reason you wont go 14bff? just wondering, cuz around here its cheaper that way lol...
     
  8. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    Hard to find in 3.08's, need to change front hubs to 8 lug, as well as wheels and tires, I already have a 10b, 10b's are given away around here (even cheaper than 14b's). Need more?
     
  9. Confedneck79K30

    Confedneck79K30 3/4 ton status

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    adapters, gear swap, need more? it doesnt particularly matter to me whatya do, but if you're looking for strength, and you are (read:stronger shafts) then it MAY, may be worthwhile to hold out for a set of stronger axles...
     
  10. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    It's not a point worth arguing over. I have MY reasons for staying with the 10b. I wanted options for what I have.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You can break any one of the gov-lock pieces and it will function as an open.

    The flyweight is pretty easy to get at, as is the larger portion that locks up as well. If you look at a gov-lock carrier, you will see the "external" pieces on the carrier that you can destroy to stop functioning.

    I can't guarantee you'll be able to break the shaft they ride on, but you could probably grind strategic pieces of the assembly (the locking "teeth" on the cam/flyweight) pretty easily and accomplish the same thing.

    I don't know as I'd worry about the axleshafts after making the carrier open. 10B axleshafts aren't particularly weak (especially if you are putting power to them through 3.08's) and with the gov-lock disabled, 90% of your 10B failure mechanism is gone.
     
  12. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    You can stick with the 10 bolt all you want. Most people on here are gonna tell you to go 14ff at first to save money later. I would recommend it, but im not going to tell you to do that....because its your decision not mine. Just remember, if you upgrade the shafts on a 10 bolt, and take out the gov lock (the weakest link) there will be another weak link. If you upgrade the shafts, then youll probably snap u-joints left and right in sticky situations. If you dont, with chromo's, youll break the carrier before the shafts.

    Anyways....I believe warn also makes some chromo shafts for the 10bolt. They might be a little pricey though. 10 bolt chromo shafts are usually around $300-$400. Youll need to replace the carrier to run a locker in a gov lock case. The lockright is only about $250 for a 10 bolt and its a pretty decent locker (i run one in my front 10 bolt and i am impressed with it). If you dont know how or have the tools to re-set the backlash when you replace the carrier, then your gonna have to pay for that as well. I believe ord sells chromo 10 bolt shafts so you might want to look there. Good luck...and try not to sink too much money into it:doah: Hope I helped out a little....and even if it sounded like it, i wasnt urging you to get a 14ff. You already said you didnt want one, I was merely stating the costs involved with your setup and what the weakest links may be so you can address them and have less broken parts (which equals less money) on the trail.:waytogo:
    -Harrison
     

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