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12 bolt and D44 on 35s?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by johnnieg, May 25, 2004.

  1. johnnieg

    johnnieg 1/2 ton status

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    Is this a good idea? Will they take it? I plan on running 35" mud-terrains, 4.56 gears and a 4" suspension lift. I just think 1 ton is a little overkill for my application. What are the pros and cons of these axles in this setup?
     
  2. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    Depends if you have a heavy right foot or not. If you wheel lightly they will last as long as you let them. But if you wheel hard they will break easily
     
  3. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Avoid a locker in the front.
     
  4. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Stay off the rocks, keep the HP around stock, and you will probably never have a prob with them, especially with a light, skinny tire like an M/T.
     
  5. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    You'll be fine. Just don't be a throttle jockey. I run 38's on a D44 and 12b and I have had no issues for 3 years now. It's all in how you drive it. And yes, I DO wheel it! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  6. scoutillac

    scoutillac 1/2 ton status

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    I have 10 bolts with 4.56's a lockright in the front and 35's. I have a pretty heavy foot sometimes. My biggest problem is busting the short side axles and u-joint. That usually only happens when I'm stuck in the snow or mud and crankin hard each way to unstick with a little too much throttle. Or when on the rocks and in the gullies bound up one way or the other and trying to force it to go. That's when things go pop bang. Other than that I haven't had any trouble for 2 years. So easy on the skinny when turned hard one way or the other. A locker in the front is awesome for tire wear purposes on a DD. I broke front axles with and without the front locker.
     
  7. evilk5

    evilk5 Registered Member

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    I have a D44, 12b w/detroit, 4.56's, SM465, 350 a little more than stock and have yet to brake anything. But I do have Superior axle shafts in rear. I wheel the way I want (rocks, mud, trails)and only had to replace the passenger ujoint becouse it was sloppy. I guess the key is watch the throttle pedal. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  8. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, having a 12 bolt adds another element of exitement and danger to wheeling, especially if it's welded like mine, 14 bolts are for sissys who are afraid to break stuff /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  9. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I'd atleast upgrade the rear axle to a 14 bolt FF.
     
  10. Bhintz

    Bhintz 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'd atleast upgrade the rear axle to a 14 bolt FF.

    [/ QUOTE ] /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif and it would be cheaper to, to find one with 4.56 gears in it anyway than to regear the 10 bolt
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    It all depends on how you drive. When I had 35's on a 12-bolt with 4.10's, I blew teeth right off the ring gear 3 times in 3 years. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  12. johnnieg

    johnnieg 1/2 ton status

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    This is my daily driver so most of the time is on-road. I have gone on a few off-road excursions with no problems. I try to be really conservative on the skinny pedal off-road but can't help but open it up every once in a while. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif Since I'm going off to college next year I don't know how much wheeling is going to happen. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'd atleast upgrade the rear axle to a 14 bolt FF.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Exactly.

    Personally I feel 1 ton is overkill for most rigs but a 14 bolt is necessary just to leave the driveway. All three of my rigs have them.

    I run a 1 ton front because I have big tires and a locker and I'm a throttle jockey as the guys can attest that wheeled with me last weekend. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I believe in finesse only to a point.......stupid pedal is so much more fun!!!
     
  14. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I'm pretty sure that the majority of the damage on mine was caused on road, not out in the boonies. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Burnouts, speed shifts, etc. contributed to the early demise of the ring gears, I'm certain. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     
  15. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Don't listen to the 1 ton club.

    Two of the hardest wheelers on this site are on half ton sticks and doing fine with minimal breakage and these guys wheel 2-4 weekends a month.

    To get into a set of 1 tons is a easy $3k venture if you luck out and don't have to buy a detroit. Set of CTMS and Warn Shafts and the front is plety capable of handling it. Set of Aloy rear shaft would not be a bad idea.

    To get back up to the same ground clearence as you have on 35's and half ton gear you need to be on 39's.
    The question you need ot ask yourself is "WILL I BE HAPPY ON MAX 35?" If your planning on going bigger then yes....time to join the 1 ton club. If your positive your staying with 35's then yes you can run the 1/2 ton stuff.

    Keep off the stupid peddle and your fine.
     
  16. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I've been running 10B front and 12B rear on 35s for several years. Here's the specks; 4.56:1 gears, a Detroit out back, open front, 4" lift and 35x12.50-15 BFG M/Ts.

    Breakage includes, longside shaft and stub (15 yr old shafts, 6 month old u-joint), one front drive shaft (30 years old), and one Detroit EZ-Locker (in a 20 yr old case that worked great w/ 31s, made it 1 1/2 trips w/ 35s, max recomended tire size for it was 33s). Both of my new drive shafts have held up fine, I no longer mash the gas w/ the wheels cranked all the way, the rear has been fine since I went to a full case Detroit.

    Keep it as light as you can and bring some spare shafts, esp for the rear. The FF14B is one of the worst axles you can run w/ 35s off-road. The clearance absolutly sucks. If you have O/D go lower on the gearing, 4.88 or 5.13 would be nice.
     
  17. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Shaved, I'd bet my 14 bolt full floater has more clearance than my 14 bolt SF ever gave me even with the same tires.

    Those of you complaining about the ground clearance of 1/2 ton stuff really crack me up. Either you're really aching for an excuse to keep that stuff under your truck, or you simply have to find one reason that lighter-duty stuff might have its place on the trail.

    I sucessfully destroyed two 1/2 ton rear axles, then ended up with a 14 bolt SF for two years which I ran sucessfully. Now I have the full floater and a D60 up front but I'd say a 14 bolt in some form is bare minimum for a built truck that you ever intend to wheel.

    I would never spend the money on a full case locker for a 12 or 10 bolt, that is a total waste of money.

    Every time I broke my 10 bolt front, that 14 bolt was always there to get me home. At least if you've got the big axle in the rear you always have that to fall back on. If you trash a 10/44 12/10 combo you're done and the only way you're making it home is a tow truck or a trailer.

    Personally I would shave a 14 bolt and put a detroit in it with 4.10s and find a matching 3/4 ton front and go with it.

    As to a 1 ton swap costing $3k, mine cost me less than that (not a whole lot though) and I have lockers in both ends, discs, and crossover steering as of now. If you start adding premium goodies it gets expensive, but if you ask me the only thing required to get the 1 tons swapped in is crossover steering, the rest can wait until you're ready.

    That said, damn near anything will hold up to a 35x12.50, but the 14 bolt rear sure gives you peace of mind. A D60 front for 35x12.50s would be major overkill though and I would suggest looking at other upgrades besides a D60 front if 35s are all you're running right now.
     
  18. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    The FF14 is overkill for a radial 35x12.50. The SF 14 would be a good good choice as would a D60 rear. However, a 12B will get the job done. If I were starting over w/ the knowledge I have now I'd probably go w/ a D60FF.

    I glad we could crack you up.
     
  19. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    However, a 12B will get the job done.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    It sure will. I will go 35's next . My 12 bolt will stay in until I break it................then I will get Superior shafts /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  20. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Why keep the 12 bolt if it only has 3.08s? Don't you want lower gears?

    For the price of that set of shafts you could have a set of 3/4 tons from the junkyard that will have a better ratio. If you currently have a locker up front it can be transferred to the new 3/4 ton stuff, too.

    Looking back on my whole buildup, in a way, I regret ever going 1 ton in the first place. It would have been so economical--and just as much fun to have a locked 3/4 ton rig on 35-36" tires and spend the money on winch, armor, etc.

    In the end, it's sweet to have a locked 1 ton rig on 40s, but the reality is that it will now be a trailered machine because it's nowhere near as much fun as it was when it was on 35s and could be driven everywhere.
     

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