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12 bolt C-Clip Eliminator or 33 spline axles - anyone ever try these?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by crawlink5, Feb 7, 2004.

  1. crawlink5

    crawlink5 1/2 ton status

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    I believe the c-clip elim are for 12 bolt. I also think you can get a 33 spline detroit and 33 spline axles for the 12 bolt. Just looking into this.

    http://www.moserengineering.com/moser_interior/products.asp?CatID=2

    I know some will say just go to 14 bolt - but getting the d-shaft shortened, converting to 8 lug front OR a d60 (shorten front shaft also), 5 new wheels, 5 new tires, disc brakes in rear, adjustable proportioning valve, extra dollars for the stuff that doesn't go as planned, wear and tear on my 40 yr old butt, pissing the wife off (priceless) etc. So the right way will wait for now.

    With the 12 bolt there is a 8 7/8 ring gear (which I think is close to a d60 (but may not be as strong)). Beef the axles and carrier, throw an axle truss on, and this will get me around for a while. How would this setup compare to a d60?

    BTW - this truck will never see rocks or fender trimming. It will see offroad though and I want to get back on road after.

    What do ya'll think?
     
  2. monsterjim

    monsterjim 1/2 ton status

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    You seem to have it all right. I thought it was gonna be an easy weekend axle swap, going to the corp 14, ended up adding the np205, two new drive shafts, brake proportions valves, and new gears. The money adds but I think the 14 is well worth it. My experience says that it is every bit as good or even a little better than a d60. As far as the c clip eliminators, I put one in a 92 chevy 10 bolt after breaking a couple axles and having the wheel and what was left of the axle beat m eto the bottom of the hill once and then gouging into my fender once after coming out of the housing. Pretty simple install as I recall.
     
  3. crawlink5

    crawlink5 1/2 ton status

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    I bet the axle passing you up was kinda funny. A video would have been good.

    I got a 14b a couple of weeks ago and I do intend on going that way. But as I learned in the past, it always costs more than expected - mostly time. Especially if you don't go all the way in one whack. But it'll be at least a year or two getting it all together unless something falls in my lap.

    But, I'm patient if nothing else. I have 5 new tires and a spare set of used BFG muds. When the tires are gone I'll most likely go to the 14/d60. Couple years away. At that time I'll also go coils. I do my own work.
     
  4. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    It all sounds good, But the C-clip eliminater will only keep the wheel on WHEN the axel brakes. Also, the 12 bolt pinion bearings are small, Smaller than a 10 bolt! This is a weak link on the 12 bolt(and 10 bolt) That I don't think there is a cure for!!
     
  5. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    i looked into getting a c clip elim for my 10b, the guy at moser said it was not a good idea for a street driven truck. something for only at the dragstrip. i didnt question why tho.
     
  6. crawlink5

    crawlink5 1/2 ton status

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    oh well. easy come - easy go. I hope the c-clip 33 spline won't break.
     
  7. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    with new axles, and no hard wheeling, i think it would be fine. what size tires are u running>?
     
  8. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Save your money.

    If you have a 14FF already, and plan on using it in the future, then lean torwards that. Did the 14b come from a 3/4 ton and have the right gears? The only 'cost' would be 8 lug rims and the conversion u joint. (Provided the 14b is ready to drop in.)

    Later down the road, upgrade the front to 8 lug and be set.

    If you have not broken the 12b yet, I think you would be money ahead by just putting the 14 in now.
     
  9. crawlink5

    crawlink5 1/2 ton status

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    12b has had a couple of gov-loc lockup in the last month. It is probably an original 1978 model. From reading on here this could be a problem. So, before it happens I'm making a game plan.

    14b came from a 3/4 ton and it has the right gears. But, all the brake stuff has to be changed except the backing plates. I'd need an adjustable proportional valve and emerg brake cables (don't want to do this as discs would be almost as cheap - so go discs). I currently have 15" tires so they won't work with the 8 lug wheels 16"+ unless I want to grind calipers. Don't want to rig this stuff up too much. I haven't measured yet but the pinion looks longer so the d-shaft would have to be cut. If I went with 8 lug rims I'd need an 8 lug spare and tire and I'd have to carry two different spares (ain't gonna happen ever). If I bought anything out of state the shipping would be be rough.

    Brakes
    brackets - $55 ebay
    eldorado calipers - $200 - $300 (with e-brake - no way would I go without emergency brakes. That is basic 'get your inspection sticker' stuff)
    discs - $70
    brake pads - $30
    Proportional Valve - $0 need one anyway
    Front 8 Lug Conv - $200
    Front tie-rods to fit conv? - 1/2 ton prob same - $0
    5 - 8 lug wheels - $250 if I go cheap
    5 New tires - $750 (cheap)
    Cut d-shaft - $100
    Conv u-joint - $30?
    approx $1500+

    converting to 8 lug front would be a waste of money if I went to d60 later but it would be cheaper now.

    As opposed to:
    33 spline Axles - $300?
    33 spline detroit - $400?

    Yep, you're right. It doesn't add up. Wasting $700+ bucks. Hmmm. Sometimes my thinking gets ahead of my sense.

    Hope the gov-loc holds up til I'm done gathering. I know some racers with 12b's. I may get lucky if needed.


    If I could just go 6 lug for now on that 14 bolt without ruining the hubs. Drill 6 holes and leave the original 8? Anyone? I haven't looked that close at the outers yet.

    Thanks for the input.
     
  10. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Rotors can be gotten for $25 new....
    You shouldn't have to cut the d-shaft....
    8 lug hubs can be found at the j-yard w/rotors, or just get new ones....
    8 lug rims can be had for $40, little grinding necessary to the front w/right backspace....
    Do you really need new tires? Lots of 14FF with 3/4 1 ton trucks running around on 15" wheels....

    Your cost may be a bit high....

    Get a bunch of lug nuts while at the j yard too....

    Might find a 6 lug 14SF axle while at the j-yard too.

    Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I know some will say just go to 14 bolt - but getting the

    d-shaft shortened

    Not necessary.

    converting to 8 lug front OR a d60 (shorten front shaft also)

    Not necessary again. D60 uses the same u joint even, so your front shaft bolts right up. 8 lug parts can come from the same truck your 14 FF came from.

    5 new wheels

    $40-50 each

    5 new tires
    Not necessary

    Disc brakes in rear
    Probably cheaper than doing the drums and buying hardware and drums for that 12 bolt

    adjustable proportioning valve
    Not necessary

    extra dollars for the stuff that doesn't go as planned,
    Which are the same as any axle swap, u bolts, maybe brake lines, spring plates, the conversion joint, shocks if you need new ones while you're at it. You're also forgetting that the gears that you'll be changing in your 12 bolt will probably already be in your 14 bolt when you get it.


    With the 12 bolt there is a 8 7/8 ring gear (which I think is close to a d60 (but may not be as strong)). Beef the axles and carrier, throw an axle truss on, and this will get me around for a while. How would this setup compare to a d60?

    Dana 60 has a 9.75" ring gear. If you want to even get close to that strength in a semi floater, you need a 14 bolt semi floater, which has 33 spline axles, a 9.5" ring gear, and is significantly larger than the components in your 12 bolt.

    What do ya'll think?

    I hope to God you don't waste your money on a 12 bolt. By the time it's all said and done with the upgrades you've mentioned, it'll probably cost more than a 3/4 ton swap and you'll be disappointed when those expensive, hard to find parts break.

    C clip eliminators are not recommended for the street anyway. They often leak and will create their own set of new problems that you don't want.

    All those upgrades you mentioned are what drag racers do--they swap in a 12 bolt which is as big as comes in a Chevy car, then they beef it because going 8 lug or installing a 450 lb. rear axle is certainly not an option for them.

    Do yourself a favor, don't waste your money. You'll thank us later.
     
  12. crawlink5

    crawlink5 1/2 ton status

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    Had already scrapped the 12 bolt idea in the above post. Too much wasted money. I'll just keep collecting parts until I have them all. Just hope for the best on the 12 bolt.
     

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