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12 bolt carrier, cross shaft bolt

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ChevBlazin, Mar 14, 2002.

  1. ChevBlazin

    ChevBlazin 1/2 ton status

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    How do pull the little bolt out that holds in the cross shaft in the carrier with out breaking it. At the junk yard almost all of them were broken, mostly on 10 bolts though. If it does break, how do I get it out, do I need a new carrier? I want to replace the bearings and axle seals for preventative maintenance, but now I'm worried. Any advice? thanks
     
  2. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    My little setscrew/bolt is broken every time I've pulled it down. And every time I've gotten it out with a scribe or sharp punch - just tapped it out gently.

    Then don't wrench down on the new one too hard, cuz next time you'll be in there doin' it all again...

    Marv
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    It seems to be pretty common for them to break. Whatever you do, don't try to pound the shaft out with a sledge, trying to shear the pin lol. (don't ask, wasn't mine!)

    I believe the shop that we took this one to used an extremely long drill bit to run through it.

    Do they make "left hand twist" drill bits? Would seem that if it were stuck, a left hand bit would work good for removal/drilling it out. Then again, you run into the length issue.

    If you break that off, and you can't get it out, the only other way to remove it is cut through the diff carrier right alongside the pinion shaft (thats what the "cross shaft" is called) and cut the retaining pin that way. (maybe you could cut the axles lol) Because without removing the pinion shaft, you can't get the c-clips off.
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem (with my truck and 3 out of 4 trucks in the j/y!). You can't punch it out from the other side because it is a blind hole /forums/images/icons/frown.gif I ended up taking off the bearing cap so I could get my drill in there (a 1/2" drive...a 3/8" drive would fit better but you would still have to take off the cap). Then I just drilled a hole in what was left in there and backed it out w/ a EZ-out. Put the bearing cap back on (you will have to find the spec's as I forgot), clean all the metal flakes out and your done...Not a job I would want to pay someone to do.


    ...I just read your post a bit closer and you are taking it all apart any way...don't worry about breaking it! If it comes out in one piece I would replace it any way!
     
  5. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    The friggin' little bolt (can ya tell I've been there) doesn't break during removal. If it's broken, it was broken in use, it holds the cross-shaft in-place (pinion-shft), and gets beaten up pretty bad. With the vibrations and constant beating, eventualy breaks it off at the threadeds, just below the hex head, leaveing just enuff thread on the broken end inside the diff, so you can't fish it out with a magnet.

    I've done a-few of 'em and can useualy get them out without much problem. I use a pick and try to grab the remaing thread on the shaft and back it out (unthread it). Once you get it hooked into the tapped threads on the diff, it unthreads easily.
    Some times I hold a magnet up to the pick if I'm haveing trouble "catching" a thread.

    It's a good idea to get another "Pinion-shaft, stop-bolt" any time you are p[laning on removeing the bolt.
     
  6. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    There is a kit made just for removing that stubborn cross pin bolt. You will find it sold primarily from the big tool guys like Snap-on, Mac, Matco. The kits are fairly cheap around $20.00 or so if i remember correctly. A friend of mine is the person who invented this item and holds the patent on it. I think Sears might even sell it now also.
     
  7. ChevBlazin

    ChevBlazin 1/2 ton status

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    I took it apart this weekend and it wasnt broken!! That was a relief.
     

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