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12-bolt full float conversion

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mastiff, Feb 10, 2004.

  1. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Can anyone tell me about the Warn 12-bolt full float conversion? Is it worthwhile? Can I install it in my garage?
     
  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    No offence, but why when a 14 bolt FF can be had at such cheap prices. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I don't knock anybody for doing something different, but cost vers effect and a 14 bolt FF is the clear winner in my view. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Can anyone tell me about the Warn 12-bolt full float conversion?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yes. It's discontinued AFIAK.


    [ QUOTE ]
    Is it worthwhile?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You mean WAS it worthwhile? Nope, 14 bolt full floaters are a dime a dozen.

    [ QUOTE ]
    Can I install it in my garage?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    If you can find one and have a welder, that's a possibility.

    Ok, my turn to ask questions.

    Why would you waste money on a 12 bolt with tiny pinion bearings and an 8.875" ring gear when 10.5" 14 bolts are cheap, easy to swap in, and way stronger than any full floating 12 bolt.
     
  4. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Well, the only remark made relevant so far was Tim's discontinued, which I've heard; all the other are idiotic.

    Crawlin70 did it to the 12 bolt he ran in his rig before he dismantled it. You may want to PM him and ask him about it. I don't know if he kept it or got rid of it, but he reported no problems with it.

    As for other conversions, I do know of another kit, but can't recall it off the top of my head. There is a homebrew FF 9" idea that could probably convert a 12 bolt to FF.

    This is just an example of what Crawlin70 threw towards his 12 FF
    [​IMG]
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I checked today actually out of curiousity and the 12 bolt is no longer even listed in the Warn catalog which is why I had thought it was discontinued.
     
  6. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    No offence, but why when a 14 bolt FF can be had at such cheap prices. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I don't knock anybody for doing something different, but cost vers effect and a 14 bolt FF is the clear winner in my view. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I knew I'd get some flak for asking this! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    I only have 35" tires and a mild 350. I have been thinking about 14ff, but with "small" tires, the diff will practically be dragging on the ground. Seems like overkill. Plus, even if the 14ff is cheap, I'll need new gearing (4.56) to match the front, or else new front gears (4.10 maybe?) to match the back.

    Or I could just leave it alone since I don't really beat on the truck too much anyway.
     
  7. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I checked today actually out of curiousity and the 12 bolt is no longer even listed in the Warn catalog which is why I had thought it was discontinued.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I think it was because Warn was overly proud of the kits $$$$$$........ /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  8. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    I think Mudzer did the full floater conversion on his 12 bolt. He now has a 14FF. Not sure why he got rid of the 12 bolt, I don't know if it broke or he just upgraded. Hopefully he'll see this and fill you in.

    IMHO, I would go to a 14FF. If you really want to stay 6 lug, 14FF with the 6 lug adapters I've heard of around here or a 14SF. I definitely wouldn't throw money at a 12 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
     
  9. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    IMHO, I would go to a 14FF. If you really want to stay 6 lug, 14FF with the 6 lug adapters I've heard of around here or a 14SF. I definitely wouldn't throw money at a 12 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Can the 14ff drums (with adapter) fit in a 6 lug aluminum rim? Does the adapter push things out and make more load on the bearings from the leverage?

    What are guys doing with their front axles when they get 14bff rears? I can see picking up a 14bff cheap at a junk yard, but a D60 front is mucho $$$, no? Just live with the 10?
     
  10. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Most of the adapters do push the wheels out more. But that evens out the track width. As far as bearings go, I (along with a lot of others) run heavy offset rims (3" or less bs) with very few wear issues. I only see bearing issues if it is loaded down with a lot of weight and a good size trailer.

    There is the superior axle upgrade option (robzilla is runnning them now). They are by far cheaper ($125 ea) than buying and regearing a 14FF or a warn kit (can't find it new any way). There is an impressive gain in strength also. You can keep your 6 lugs and all. If I had my heart set on a 12B that is the way to go. Just keep a spare shaft (L & R are equal in length and such) in the extreme event you break one.
    My .02 though
     
  11. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    No offence, but why when a 14 bolt FF can be had at such cheap prices. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I don't knock anybody for doing something different, but cost vers effect and a 14 bolt FF is the clear winner in my view. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I knew I'd get some flak for asking this! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    I only have 35" tires and a mild 350. I have been thinking about 14ff, but with "small" tires, the diff will practically be dragging on the ground. Seems like overkill. Plus, even if the 14ff is cheap, I'll need new gearing (4.56) to match the front, or else new front gears (4.10 maybe?) to match the back.

    Or I could just leave it alone since I don't really beat on the truck too much anyway.

    [/ QUOTE ] If you have 4.56's up front, then look for a 14 bolt FF with 4.56's. They can normally be found in M1008's I think, not sure, I'm no expert. Ground Clearence, I'll only be running 36's for then next few years, and I'm going 14 bolt FF.
     
  12. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Well, the only remark made relevant so far was Tim's discontinued, which I've heard; all the other are idiotic .

    [/ QUOTE ] Still with the name calling huh ?? Not everybody will even consitter defiling a Chevy with a furd 9". /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
     
  13. Tweetysuarus

    Tweetysuarus 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    IMHO, I would go to a 14FF. If you really want to stay 6 lug, 14FF with the 6 lug adapters I've heard of around here or a 14SF. I definitely wouldn't throw money at a 12 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Can the 14ff drums (with adapter) fit in a 6 lug aluminum rim? Does the adapter push things out and make more load on the bearings from the leverage?

    What are guys doing with their front axles when they get 14bff rears? I can see picking up a 14bff cheap at a junk yard, but a D60 front is mucho $$$, no? Just live with the 10?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Heres an adapter thats C7C machined for 6 lug but kinda spedy! web page Ask Grady about C&C 14BFF Hubs that are 6 lug conversion.
    Bill
     
  14. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    As far as the front end goes, you either find a 3/4 ton front (10B or D44 will work) Or find the caliper brackets rotors hubs and such. (all internal style hubs use the 1/2 ton spindle)
     
  15. mr_fujisawa

    mr_fujisawa 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    IMHO, I would go to a 14FF. If you really want to stay 6 lug, 14FF with the 6 lug adapters I've heard of around here or a 14SF. I definitely wouldn't throw money at a 12 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Can the 14ff drums (with adapter) fit in a 6 lug aluminum rim? Does the adapter push things out and make more load on the bearings from the leverage?

    What are guys doing with their front axles when they get 14bff rears? I can see picking up a 14bff cheap at a junk yard, but a D60 front is mucho $$$, no? Just live with the 10?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    i am swaping to a 14 bolt ff in a few weeks. up front i have already swapped in a dana 44. i will be running 4.10's and 35" tires. seems to me like it will be alright. sure the pumpkin is a little large, but you can chave a little off, and the strength trade off seems to be worthwhile.

    sean /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  16. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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    I have the Warn kit on my 10 bolt. I have 35in MTRs, lmtd slip frt & rr, stock 5.7, 700 w/shift kit. I bought frt & rr 10 bolts from a board member about 2 years a go, already built. I am not a serious wheeler. My rig is my daily ride. I've logged on some miles on the 10 bolt ff setup no prob. Drove it from San Diego to Vancouver Wa and back. No problem. Tows my boat no problem. Gets me to work & play no problem. If I had the money I would go D60 & 14b W/4.88'S and new tires & wheels to match. Thats a lot of cash. Get an after market lmtd slip unit or a locker and with regular service (fluid changes) you'll never here from it again. Throwing a 14b rear at it is a solution but not the only way to go. You can get a 14b for $100. Unless you want to run someones junk you'll need to freshen it up. Add money. Tires & wheels. Add money. Convert the front to 8 lug. Add money. 8 to 6 lug adapter /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Will your wheels clear the drums ? I would say yes on the 12 bolt. How many Big Block GM muscle cars have 14b rears ? None. 12 bolts. If you have a problem with your right foot and your makin some horse power, 14b. Otherwise upgraded stock will work fine.
     
  17. K10ANDYKHAMNIC

    K10ANDYKHAMNIC 1/2 ton status

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    just an fyi it is C N C not c&c /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif . cnc=computer numerically controlled . sorry just a pet peeve. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  18. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    I checked into the same thing a while back as I'd already regeared my 12bolt and D44, and added rear disk brakes. So costs for 14ff (paying for install too) was gonna be pricey.

    Anyway, Warn discontinued the 12ff kit, but I had a long talk with ORD not too long ago and they've been sorta thinking about maybe putting something together - if there was enough interest I suppose... There is also a way to do it yourself and maybe they'd tell you how if they aren't thinking about going into production anytime soon. Worth a call anyway. If you do call, please apologise to them for me if posting this let any cats out of any bags... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  19. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    There is also a way to do it yourself and maybe they'd tell you how if they aren't thinking about going into production anytime soon.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I can't sleep so I just had an idea. With a little work someone could bolt spindles and backing plates on the rear axle housing and run a mirror image of the fronts, the only EXPENSIVE proposition would be getting axleshafts made and sealing it up good. Which is maybe why no one does. But if you convert to disc brakes the current way with regular axles, wouldn't the caliper and rotor hold in the axle anyway if it broke /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  20. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    With a little work someone could bolt spindles and backing plates on the rear axle housing and run a mirror image of the fronts, the only EXPENSIVE proposition would be getting axleshafts made and sealing it up good. Which is maybe why no one does. But if you convert to disc brakes the current way with regular axles, wouldn't the caliper and rotor hold in the axle anyway if it broke


    [/ QUOTE ]

    An old boy up around Canada way did the similar thing to a 9" that I previously mentioned.

    He used D44 hubs and spindles, had a set of whatever machined. It's too early to describe it, here's the link.

    I really wouldn't go by the price this guy listed. I have come up with a ball park figure and if I was to do it right now, I'd be looking at another $5-600 to convert my 9" over this way. On top of that, I really don't like the design, since the spindle has to be pulled in case of a broken shaft.
     

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