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12 or 14 bolt

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bee32, Sep 8, 2001.

  1. bee32

    bee32 1/2 ton status

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    I am triing to decide if I should wait to get a 14 bolt or should I just upgrade to a 12 now and get the 14 down the road. I am running a stock 10 now with limited slip. But I had to drill a hole in the cover plate to be able to fill it. Gotta love being out on a trail to make mods.What do yall think?

    Brian
    83 K-5 4" on 33's
     
  2. SlyDog

    SlyDog 1/2 ton status

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    Go right for the 14 bolt they dont cost anymore than a 12 bolt i think and its a ton stronger so do it right and do it once [​IMG]

    <font color=green>[​IMG]1977 K5 GETTIN IT AWN[​IMG]</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.slydawg.rockcrawler.com>www.slydawg.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  3. bee32

    bee32 1/2 ton status

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    That's what I was a thinking. But I am going out today to play so I will think about it out there


    Brian
    83 K-5 4" on 33's
     
  4. sapper

    sapper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    go with the 14 first. they are cheap and it would save you alot of time trying to resale the 12

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradoK5.com/gallery/Pauls89K5>http://coloradoK5.com/gallery/Pauls89K5</a>
     
  5. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    the only thing about going with a ff14bolt now is you will need new rims and a new front dana 44 3/4 ton or a dana 60 otherwise you will have 8 lug back and 6 lug front so you will not be able to rotate your tires unles you get a sf14bolt but then you would have the c-clip problem. just tosing more ideas out for you to ponder lol

    wheeling videoshttp://community.webshots.com/user/ssmith6333
     
  6. 78Jimmyish

    78Jimmyish 1/2 ton status

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    While we're tossing out ideas, you could also go with the 12b and a FF kit for it. Some chrome-moly shafts and you'll probably have yourself an axle that'll be pretty damned tough to break. Plus you'll save yourself some ground clearance. That's what I'm planning on doing to my 12b - I don't feel like looking for new rims.

    I think what you'll find is that there're two different schools of thought here - and there's gives and takes to both.
     
  7. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    I would only do it once and get the 14 bolt. Also most of the 14ff you will find will have 4:10's and 3:73's.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  8. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    I say dont waste your money on a 12 just to replace it with a 14 later. If you dont want to swap the front axle aslo, just do an 8 lug conversion on it.
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well you can pick up a 14 for less than $200 if you look around a bit. I would never spend large on a 12 bolt...8 lug 15" rims are cheap, and the conversion parts to make the front end 8 lug are inexpensive too.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  10. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    I've never paid over $100 for a 14 bolt. One cheap place to look is Pick and Pull. Don't be afraid of 2wd ones, either.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  11. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    I just dumped $1000 into a 12 bolt cuz its what I had.Now I have a parts truck with a 14 bolt and I wish I would have waited .I could have converted it to 6 lug and put in a detroit for about the same $$ and have piece of mind knowing that I wont break it.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  12. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Here are my points of view about each of these axles:

    12 BOLT:
    <font color=red>CONS:</font color=red>
    1) 8.875" ring gear weaker than a 14 bolt's 10" ring gear
    2) Axles are also smaller (and weaker) than a 14 bolts'.
    3) C-Clip design allows a wheel assembly to come off if it fails, which can be dangerous.
    4) Warn's FF convertion kit is about $800
    <font color=green>PROS:</font color=green>
    1) Lighter than a 14 bolt
    2) More clearance than a 14 bolt
    3) All parts available to fix/upgrade
    4) Can be upgraded to a full floater design with Warn's kit
    5) If you can't afford a FF kit, you can buy a set of Moser forged axles, which are about $225 a pair.

    14 BOLT:
    <font color=red>CONS:</font color=red>
    1) Heavier than a 12 bolt (by almost 200lbs)
    2)More than an 1 inch of clearance lost due to the large pumpkin
    3) Only comes in 8-lug, so you have to either carry two spare tires or change the front to an 8-lug, or buy a Dana 60, which are very expensive.
    <font color=green>PROS:</font color=green>
    1)Larger, stronger ring than 12 bolt.
    2)Thicker, stronger axles than 12 bolt.
    3)Full floater design makes it harder to break an axle shaft.
    4)Cheap and available

    Personally, I'll keep my 12 bolt and try to upgrade it. I'll probably even try to make my own full floater kit conversion kit using front 10 bolt hub and parts. Don't know if it's possible yet.

    It mostly depends on your kind of wheeling. If you're going to abuse them seriously, get the 14 bolts, if it's an "OK" wheeling with not so large tires, keep your 12 bolt.

    If anyone feels I forgot something, please feel free to correct me.


    <font color=purple>//////
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    Soon a 454 K5!!</font color=black>
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