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$1200 to install axles?

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by BranndonC, Nov 21, 2002.

  1. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    that's what i got quoted for the install of the d60/14ff combo, what is needed as far as drive shaft work, spring perches, ect...
     
  2. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    mine we installed as part of the deal! i have no driveshaft work needed to be done, either!!
     
  3. dammit32

    dammit32 1/2 ton status

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    I installed mine in 6 hours by my self with simple air tools and a cut off wheel. Most of my yime was spent prepping the new axles with new brake lines ect.

    just my .02
     
  4. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    is that price including the axles? if not you need to move closer to me ill do it for half that /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  5. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    the spring pearches are going to need to be rewelded on. what else are they quoting you on? technically, you should be getting drivelines from Jess and new pearches for that price /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  6. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    ok everyone, when i get the axles.... who'd like a paid vacation? i'm willing to pay you to come to santa barbara for a day or 2 or 3 and stay at my little house on an air mattres and i'll show you santa barbara, downtown, the beach here, it's nice... any takers? i got $1100 saved up and the axles will run me about $2000. someone mentioned that since the pumpkin was smaller on the 10 bolt that i'd need driveline work, so i'd pay what you guys call fair for you to come and vacation here, but i have limited working area /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif and virtualy no tools /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  7. Red Chevy Girl

    Red Chevy Girl 1/2 ton status

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    I just went from 10 bolts to the d60 and corp 14 combo and I even went higher on the lift and didn't need any driveline work, all I needed was a rear u-joint that ran around $35
     
  8. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    i might be down. When are you planning to do this? i won't be able to do it till after the semesters over. do you have the axles already?
     
  9. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    That will be a long drive & my wife will probably shoot me if I try to take a weekend to go there, but pm me when you get your stuff & I'll see if I can make it. I can bring a bunch of tools & air compressor. I'm not an expert, but I just did a 3/4 ton swap on my K5.

    I don't know much about rewelding perches & that junk. If it's not your daily driver, we can at least get it together & you can worry about driveshaft lengths later. If you're not adding more lift, you will probably need to shorten them.

    What tcase do you have, slip yoke, fixed, flange type?
     
  10. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Hey brandon, I could do that for you or you can come by here, anyway when are you planning on doing this?
    I can bring everything over, even the welder, and you just pay me my expenses you know Gas, beer, etc...
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    thanks guys..... the shop selling the axles said there's about a 1 month waiting list, so i'll probably "order" them mid-december and get them mid january sometime, so that's the plan as of now, unless i get a 2nd job for the christmas season, then i can do it sooner
     
  12. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    well, it sounds like we can get a contigent down there, so the real need would be to have everything.

    axles, u-joints, rims, tires, D60 steering block, u-bolts, etc, etc.
     
  13. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    where would i get all that stuff? i looked at the new rims and there were like $300 each!!! but the otherstuff... where do i get that? online? and what's hydraulic steering i've heard of?
     
  14. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    You gonna take the truss/skidplates off yer 10 bolts and put em on yer 14/60? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  15. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    ok.

    The only thing you should have to change on the Drive Shafts would be a larger u-joint for the 14BFF. that will not cost too much. $30-50

    I am not a proponet of grinding on the calipers. i have seen what happens when brakes fail in ALMS, and no engineer wants to but more material on anything then what is necessary.

    So that leads to 16.5x9.75 rims. these can be had for $28 each from Summit Racing (US Wheeels series 70)

    Tires are the next item, and you can keep on the look out for a set of cheap used ones to use for a bit. If all else fails you can get some 36" Hummer tires for $50 each. So you could have tires and rims for less than $500 shipped.

    To have the pearches rewelded, i have no idea. mine cost $120 for new preches and having them welded. your results my vary. Pearches can be had from Summit or Coleman for $60 or so.

    Steering blocks can be had for $59.99 from Rocky Mountain.

    Brake lines should bolt right up, but i am not sure about that. If some one knows for sure, post up.

    with 35" tires, hydrolic steering is not necessary. It has been said to be the cure of the 1-ton Death Wobble that you will get running the stock steering set-up. I have very mild DW with the ORD crossover steering kit.

    I dunno what rims you were lookingat that were $300 each, but that is a rip off. overkill for a trail rig.

    you can also offset all these costs by selling the old axles and tires. so you could realisticlly count on about $500 coming back to you if the right buyer surfaces.
     
  16. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    Don't forget the little stuff like ubolts for the 14B $40 or so.

    There are probably other little things that you will need to get it all done.
     
  17. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I don't totally agree with you Zakk about the grinding.
    I don't mean he should grind half an inch like some people do to fit a 15" with 4.5" backspacing.
    Personnaly I would go with a 8"rim withthe least backspacing I can get and grind the edge a little on those calipers.
    I have seen it done and it's not even grinding it's barely cleaning the casting marks.
    And by the way the engineers always give a certain margin, not to say you can take half of the thikness off.
    And another option is the 16" wheel which is much better than the 16.5"
    I would never wheel with a 16.5", I was with someone and he only went down to 15PSI and kept poping beads all day long.
     
  18. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    eeek! i'm in trouble! i drive on the street at 16psi!! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Also, the only legal DOT approved beadlocks are only availible for 16.5" tires. That would be the Kustom Hummer beadlocks availible at USA6x5.com

    it is a matter of personal preference. Stock backspacing is not conducive to 15" rims.
     
  19. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Hey Zakk
    What rim width do you have?
     
  20. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    9.75

    hummers have 8.25 but have been run with 44" boggers.
     

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