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1350 vs 1410 driveshaft experience

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by customfab, May 22, 2006.

  1. customfab

    customfab Newbie

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    So I need real-life experiences here. I've called at least a dozen driveshaft companies throughout the US including all the big names. Most everyone recommends going straight 1350s due to the savings in cost, more driveshaft options and replacement u-joint costs. I was told by Jim at J.E. Reel that Jesse at High Angle has been the one pushing 1410s and that he disagrees. I called Jesse and he told me the 1410 yoke ends are as strong at the 1350 CVs (hard to believe) from his experience. This seems to validate what Jim told me at JE Reel.
    I am looking at running a 1350 CV with either a 1350 yoke at my D60 diff or 1410 yoke at my D60 diff. Then on the front dual 1350 standard yokes or dual 1410 standard yokes.
    So my question is this? Is the 1410 worth paying the additional cost? Are they really that much stronger? Are you guys breaking driveshaft 1350 u-joints a bunch? Thoughts............come on stir up the pot!
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    1410's run at a much steeper angle than 1350's do...28 degrees versus 20. That's enough reason for me.

    Rene
     
  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    1350 for me. I really don't see the need for 1410 unless you need that much angle. I've seen 1310's take some serious abuse and stay together.
     
  4. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    I broke my 1350 and was going to replace it, why not upgrade while i'm at it?

    And no it did not brake because of that bolt being loose. It backed out on the drive home from going 50mph a few times. I tightened it down before the trip

    [​IMG]
     
  5. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    ive got 1350 conversion ujoints now. but im most likely going to go 1350 in front and 1410 in rear when i get new shafts.
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    The critical dimensions (with respect to strength) are equal between 1350 and 1410 so long as I know... but the 1410 having longer "legs" which allow greater operating angle. I have lots of rear droop... need all the angle I can get. In the front, I have a LP D60... again, gimme all the angle I can get.

    j
     
  7. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I don't know that the issue between the two is as much strength as it is operating angles as JB said here. I swapped my rear on the Corp14ff to a 1410 using the U-bolts instead of straps. I went with a 42 degree CV up front and swapped in a 1410 on the D60 all for the angles. Even doing this, my angles aren't real great but manageable. I think it depends on how hard you push your rig. Many get away with even a 1310 for a long time because despite their believing they are hard core wheeling, they really aren't.
     
  8. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    If your rear axle is setup correctly isnt the operating angle for the rear ujoint always 0* if your running a cv...if thats the case then theres no reason to run a 1410 because it isnt stronger...
     
  9. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    Save for the fact that you can get a 1410 yoke with u bolts in stead of straps....
     
  10. drivelineman

    drivelineman 1/2 ton status

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    I posted my thoughts on pirate about this- Jess
     
  11. customfab

    customfab Newbie

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    THOSE ARE STRAPS!!!! You broke you shi$ b/c of that not b/c it was a 1350. Go with u-joints instead. Plus, 1350 yokes are stronger than 1410s. You assume incorrectly.
     
  12. drivelineman

    drivelineman 1/2 ton status

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    1410 is stronger -you usually don't break a u joint- its a yoke- Jess:D

    DCP_9329_small.jpg
     
  13. customfab

    customfab Newbie

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    1410 stronger? How is that from the structural standpoint?

    1410 has longer but thinner ears, right?

    How often do you see 1410 yokes break compared to pinions????
     
  14. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    No yokes are made 1350 and u bolts, only starps. you can mill them but they only get weaker. !350 and 1410 are exaclt the same size in the ears, (diameter) they are just longer. same strength but angle capacity is bigger. If breaking yokes is your problem and not joints then by all means 1410 or run a flange.
     
  15. drivelineman

    drivelineman 1/2 ton status

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    no 1410 has extra beaf around the ears- i should post up a close up pic- and as for flanges they are strong in most applications- except the hack and tap 1310 its a royal piece of shait- non on to the record of 1410 and broken pinions it stands for me 2 on the dana 60 under extreme conditions and the 14 bolt one- now the other 14 bolt with 800 horse 300 shot of nos and a 10,000 comp trailer in a wheely 180 feet broke the pinion support clean off the 14 bolt- Jess

    DCP_9313.jpg
     
  16. drivelineman

    drivelineman 1/2 ton status

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    you can see the facotry yoke is a little longer in the area where the cap goes - now that makes the 14 bolt yoke hard to modify for u bolts without making a weaker yoke- you can see the extra ribs on the 14 bolt yoke on the sides that makes it much stronger than the 1350 yoke- here's our new 14 bolt flange we are proto-typing- available in 1410-1480-1550- Jess

    Picture 570.jpg
     
  17. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    we need pic of that!!!!
    link to thread on pirate?
     
  18. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I was going to reply, "It's all about the yokes, not the U-joints" but reading further, it's obvious.
     
  19. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I was referring to my front, which I went 1410 on the D60 yoke which gains operating angle.
     

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