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14 Bolt FF drum removal?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BozoWise, May 16, 2002.

  1. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Do you have to remove anything but the wheel to remove the drum? I am not sure if there is anything else to remove before I start hammering on it. Do I need to take the shafts out? Remove the hub, etc, etc. Thanks for the info I have it jacked up and for some reason I have brake fluid leaking for inside the drum somewhere. Thanks

    I have now removed the shaft and I am about to go get a hub socket. Does anyone know why there whould be fluid leaking from inside the drum? Anyone have any problems like this before? I need to get the drums working for about a month till I get my rear disks.
     
  2. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, the wheel must come off. Then take the 8 bolts off that are on the hub, these actually hold the shaft on. Make sure you put a pan underneath because 80/90 weight is going to come out. Pull on the shaft and have a paper towel ready, as you pull the shaft wrap the paper towel around the shaft to and wipe the shaft. Now get a flat head and pop the little retaining snap ring off. It's not a real snap ring, just a retainer, but i don't know what else to call it. Then grap the little rectangular key out of its slot using needle nose. Then use a 6 prong hub socket and take off the big bearing retaining nut. Then pull off the drum and be careful!!!!! It's heavy. Weighs about 50+ pounds. Also there is a seal in the back, might want to replace that too. You can buy that hub socket at any parts store. 10 bucks probably - Doug
     
  3. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Got everything off but the drum is catching on the pads. I can't turn the adjuster to tighten or lossen the pads. What should I do. I tried everything but hooking the warn 9000i to the drum. What am I missing here. Both hub nuts are removed and the drum moves out about 1.5 inches before it catches on the pads.
     
  4. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    You are either going to have to get to the adjuster and turn it in, or you are going to have to be persistent and keep pulling and turning. It will come off with some elbow grease.

    As far as you leak goes, are you sure it isn't 80/90 and not brake fluid? My bet is the inner seal is bad and letting 80/90 into the drum. That is usually what happens.

    Good luck!
    Mike
     
  5. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    no it is brake fluid. It comes out when we apply the breaks and smells like brake fluid.

    As far as the adjuster which way should it turn in respect to looking at it from the viewing hole on the inside of the axel. Towards the top or towards the bottom?
     
  6. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    From the backing plate side turn the star wheel down. But you have to hold the self adjuster away from the star wheel to back it off. if you turn the star wheel and hear a clicking sound you're tighening the brakes. You shouldn't be able to loosen the brakes without hold the self adjuster away from the star wheel.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    To loosen it off, you will need a spoon and a screw driver. The screw driver is inserted into a slot in the backing plate and used to push the self adjusting lever off the spur. You'll feel it, first resistance and then a springy/spongy give. Push that back a 1/4" or so and hold it with the driver. Then, you want to insert the spoon and move the inboard side (next to the backing plate) of the spur gear down with the spoon (handle will be going up). You will not be able to turn the spur in the correct (loosening) direction until you push the self adjuster back.
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    LOL, I gotta start opening one post at a time. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif I opened up several (to avoid waiting for each to load) and by the time I got to this one, read it, and made the reply, you beat me to the punch! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  9. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    as far as the leake goes it might be a wheel cylinder leaking...thatll let brake fluid shoot out all over the place...

    dont ask me how i know but its a mess to clean up

    Later
     
  10. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    What does this self adjuster look like? I know I can move that spur towards the rear of the vehicle and there is a bar above the spur, but the spur will not turn even with the bar lifted. I know because I have a smashed fingernail from hitting the ubolt while pusing up on another screwdriver ;-( Thanks guys I am going to get after it in the morning again.
     
  11. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    The star wheel looks like a fine tooth gear. If it's been in there awhile it may be stuck. I put antiseize on mine when rebuilding the brakes. Also a screwdriver slips get a real drum brake adjusting spoon.
     
  12. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I don’t think the "bar" over the spur that you are talking about is the adjuster. The self adjuster is a flat sort of long triangular finger like thing on the outboard side of the spur. It’s on the opposite side of the spur from the slot in the backing plate.

    When the brakes expand far enough, indicating adjustment is needed, the mechanism pulls the arm up. When the brakes are released, the arm is pulled down by a spring. As it comes down, it hooks a tooth of the spur and turns it one notch, adjusting the brakes. Unfortunately it's neutral position acts like a wheel chock on the spur. You can't turn it back (loosening the brakes) without disengaging the self adjuster...
     
  13. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    The only way brake fluid could be coming from inside the drums is if the wheel cylinder has crapped out.

    As far as getting the drums off....I always use a big frickin hammer if they are stubborn. Backing off the adjuster usually works though. Good luck.
     
  14. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Is there any place I could find information on rebuilding the complete drum setup? The cylinder was the problem but the adjuster was seized and I had to man handle the drums to get them off. Springs went flying and I no have a clean backing plate and need to rebuild all the internals. Is there a manual for rebuilding drums or information on the net?

    Man I wish I had my stuff for disk conversions.
     
  15. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    You can go to AutoZone and buy a brake parts/hardware kit...I think there like $10-12 bucks. Comes with all new springs and parts. Get some new brake shoes, new wheel cylinders and get the drums turned and thats all ya need to rebuild them.
    I had alittle truoble remembering how all the little srings and stuff went together...I have a Haynes manual that has pictures...I also used the brakes on the otherside as an example. lol, I can read about how to do something all day long...but to beable to get it done, I need to see pictures. Another thing that really helps is brake spring removal tool thingy and a brake spoon. They have them at Napa and Autozone. Drum brakes are scary lookin stuff when ya see them for the first time...But after ya work on them a few times, it gets alot easier. Good luck bro. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  16. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Got pictures of the progress on my members page.

    I need to get somemore up including the ones of the drum that I cracked with a sledge. Both adjusters are seized and I am replacing every internal part except the arms. I got the other drum off with a high lift jack prying from the frame outwards and multiple hits to the bottom of the drum.
     
  17. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    it is cheaper to put discs on then redo the entire drum setup
     
  18. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    It would have been for me too. But I bought the parts over time and by the time the disc conversions were out I had too much money in parts already.
     

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