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14 bolt hub bearing removal --Now with poll on bearing lubercation

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by mostwanted, Feb 11, 2007.

  1. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    I finally picked up a hub socket and have the time to take them apart. I removed the spindle lock nut but there was no lock washer. There was a snap ring. According to Billavista's article on pirate there is a lock washer with tabs that I am supposed to bend out of the way. Then behind the bearing there is another inner nut. It looks as if the hub will not come off without removing the bearings at the same time. It appears that the outer circumfrence of the bearing is larger than the inner hub housing. Do I have a odd style hub or am I doing something wrong?

    link to billavista's article:http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b%20disc%20brakes/index.html
    from billavistas article:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2007
  2. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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  3. dave_90_blazer

    dave_90_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    if yours has the snapring, you will need to remove the outer nut, remove the snapring, and get a small steel key out of the groove in the spindle(should be in there loose, was held in by the snapring), then remove the inner nut

    the bearing will stay in the hub, if you want them removed from the hub, they come out from the inside end of the hub

    P.S. they are oiled with gear lube from the axle
     
  4. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    I got all that stuff out. I guess maybe the brakes are holding it on. I have been beasting on the drum hoing that it would slide off. I just don't want to score the spindle or mess up any threads while swinging my BFH.
     
  5. Smitty

    Smitty 1/2 ton status

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    Might need to back the brakes off a bit to get that drum over the shoes.
     
  6. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, I backed the brakes off a bit and I have been beating the living crap out of it. I still think that there might be a nut or something behind the bearing. Does anyone know for sure? It feels like it is loose from the brakes but there is something holding it back. I can get the drum to move say 1/4 to 1/2 inch then it stops. I am very fustrated. Guess I will try again tomorrow.
     
  7. RockinChevy

    RockinChevy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Use a deadblow hammer or rubber hammer instead.. it will take some jiggling side to side to get it off. I had the same trouble getting mine apart.
     
  8. Smitty

    Smitty 1/2 ton status

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    I'd say you still need to back those brakes off some more. If you pull it untill it stops, can you turn the drum? If not, it is probably hitting the ridge on the drum.
     
  9. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, I can turn the drum. I have even been prying on one side while striking the other.
     
  10. hunterguy86

    hunterguy86 1/2 ton status

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    I couldn't my drums off after adjusting the brakes as much as possible so I ended up cutting the pins that hold the shoes to the backing plate.
     
  11. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    what pins are you refering to that you could access with the drums still intact?
     
  12. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    The hold-down pins that attach the shoes to the backing plate. They stick through at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions.

    If you can still rotate the drum, I have my doubts that it's the brake shoes holding it on, though. Unless you have a seriously worn drum and a massive rust ridge.
     
  13. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    I got them off. I wound up knocking the heads off the bolts that go thru the wheel cylnders. The whole thing slid off brakes and all. Now I have another problem getting that inner snap ring out of the hub. It is stiff! The biggest pair of snap ring pliers I have are about 8" and it wouldn't even budge.
     
  14. 58 apache

    58 apache 1/2 ton status

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    bend the corner at the split and grab it with needle nose plyers. that was the only way i could get mine off
     
  15. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Long set of needle nose vise grips and a couple flathead screwdrivers. It takes some strong words of encouragement too usually.
     
  16. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    Also drive the race toward the outer edge of the hub. This will open the gap that the snap ring sits in and will make it slightly easier to get out. I used a set of needle nose pliers and got one end out then put a flat tip screw driver in there to keep it from slipping back in. Work the screw driver around and it will come right out.

    Ira
     
  17. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    great. Thanks for the tips. I will try that in the morning. I am thinking of painting the axles with por-15. I found some sold locally.
     
  18. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    I bought this
    [​IMG]

    but it wasn't strrong enough. So I took some of Manny's spinich and dug that son of a buck out with a set of huge noodle nose vise grips, big pick, and a punch.

    Now the blasted bearing and rase wont slide out like I had hoped. Whats's the deal? At least when I am finished, if I use quality bearings, I shouldn't have to do this again!
     
  19. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    The race has to be driven out it is in there pretty tight.

    Ira
     
  20. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    would this work? I don't wanna damage nothing.

    hub1.JPG

    hub2.JPG

    hub3.JPG
     

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