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14 bolt lockright install

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by hunterguy86, Mar 5, 2007.

  1. hunterguy86

    hunterguy86 1/2 ton status

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    Well I'm going to describe the install of the lockright in my 14 bolt full floater.

    First, after putting the k5 in 4lo and blocking the front wheels, I jacked the axle up and put it on jack stands. I had to remove the tires in order to take the shafts out due to the chrome hubcaps on my wheels.
    If you don't have hubcaps, this install can be done with the tires still on.

    After getting the axle on the stands and getting the tires off, the shafts were removed. Here's a shot of my buddy taking the shaft out.


    [​IMG]
    After removing the shafts and diff cover, I used a punch to mark the bearing caps so they would not get mixed up from side to side. I put 2 marks on the right bearing cap and 1 mark on the left bearing cap. I placed these marks near the lower bearing cap bolts so I knew which way the cap went back on.

    I then removed the adjuster nut lock bolt from each side. Here is a picture of the bolt removed but the lock still in place.



    [​IMG]

    After removing the locks and the bearing caps. I marked the adjuster nuts with the punch so I could count the number of turns I would have to make.

    It is very important to note the number of turns, so the backlash and stuff will be correct after reassembly.

    After marking the adjusters, slowly turn them, one at a time until the carrier is ready to come out. I made 2 full turns on the right adjuster and 1 turn on the left adjuster.
    At that point, I was able to slide the carrier out and set it down on some cardboard. Be careful because the assembly is heavy and kinda awkward to handle. Do not let it hit the ground.

    Here is a shot of the housing with the carrier assembly removed.



    [​IMG]



    After removing the assembly, It was time to open the carrier to gain access to the side and spider gears.

    It takes a lot of force to break the bolts loose, so be prepared. I used my jack handle to put leverage on the assembly. My buddy used a 1/2 drive ratchet with a cheater pipe on the bolts. My other buddy also helped to hold the carrier in place.

    Here's a few shots of us removing the bolts.





    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]




    After taking all the bolts out, you are ready to take the carrier apart. It is not necessary to remove the ring gear from the carrier.

    I will refer to the "top" of the carrier as the non-ring gear side. Remove the top of the carrier to gain access to the spider assembly.

    Here is a shot of us removing the "top" of the carrier.



    [​IMG]

    In the pictures, you can see the "top" side gear. Remove this gear and set it aside. It will be reinstalled in the "bottom" of the carrier.

    Next remove the the cross shaft and spider gears.

    This picture shows the cross shaft and spider gears.

    [​IMG]

    Remove the spider gears from the cross shaft, because they will not be used. Clean the cross shaft with break cleaner.

    Next remove the "bottom" side gear. Set this gear aside. It will be reinstalled as the "top" side gear. You have to swap sides with the side gears, so they mesh with the drivers properly.

    This shot shows the empty carrier.

    [​IMG]

    Now we will begin to reinstall the parts. I test fit all the parts to make sure that everything fit together properly, then performed final installation. Clean all parts with brake cleaner. During final install, coat everything lightly with grease.


    Lightly coat with grease and install the “bottom side” thrust washer and "top" side gear into the bottom of the carrier.


    These 2 shots show the thrust washer and side gear installed but not greased.




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    Next coat with grease and place a driver into the carrier. Make sure the teeth of the driver mesh with the side gear.




    This shot shows me setting the driver during test fit. Dont forget to add some greaset to it.




    [​IMG]



    Next coat with grease and install the spacer that comes with the locker.


    Next install the cross shaft into the carrier and lightly tap it into place. It does not take much to seat the cross shaft.


    This shot shows the cross shaft installed.

    [​IMG]


    Then install the springs and pins into each of the drivers. On each driver there are 2 oval shaped holes and 2 round holes. The kit comes with 8 springs, 4 silver and 4 pink, and 4 pins.


    The pink springs go inside of the sliver springs. This spring assembly is then installed into the oval shaped holes of the drivers. The pins are installed in the round holes. Use a coating of grease to hold everything in place.


    After installing the pins and springs, carefully place the top driver into the carrier. Align it so that the pins of the top driver, rest on the springs of the bottom driver.


    Next, Install grease and install the last spacer into the driver.
    Then grease and install the side gear and thrust washer. Make sure the teeth of the side gear mesh with the teeth of the driver.

    This shot shows the spacer being installed into the driver.

    [​IMG]




    This shot shows the driver installed and me greasing the side gear.




    [​IMG]



    This shot shows me adding some grease to the thrust washer on top of the installed side gear.


    [​IMG]


    Now reinstall the top portion of the carrier. Make sure the carrier lines up with the marks inside. My carrier had an arrow on each side so you could align the sides properly.

    This shows the top of the carrier in place.




    [​IMG]



    After getting everything lined up reinstall the bolts and torque them to 120 ft-lbs in a cross pattern. This took quite a bit of effort to do. My 3 buddies each had a pry bar in the holes of the cross shaft while I manned the torque wrench.


    This shot shows us torqing down the bolts.



    [​IMG]




    After getting the carrier all put together check the bearings and races. Mine were in good shape so I greased them up.


    Now clean the axle housing with brake cleaner.


    Place the races on the bearings and reinstall the carrier back into the housing. It helps to have a friend here. My buddy and I lifted the carrier into location. He held it in place while I adjusted the adjusting collars to the proper number of turns.



    Heres a shot of us installing the carrier.


    [​IMG]


    This shot shows me adjusting the collar.

    [​IMG]


    Next reinstall the bearing caps and torque them to 135 ft-lbs.



    This shot shows me torquing them down.

    [​IMG]


    Now install the adjusting collar lock and bolt.


    After cleaning the diff cover, apply some Red RTV and install.


    Reinstall the axle shafts and tires.


    Fill with gear oil.


    Now with the axle still on jack stands, check the locker for proper operation.


    To do this put the transfer case in 2hi. Spin the passenger side tire forward until it clicks and hold it. Have an assistant spin the driver side tire backwards until it clicks. The locker should now be engaged and both tires should spin at the same speed.


    Now let the truck of the jack stands and take her out for a spin!


    Enjoy!
     
  2. W7NB

    W7NB 1/2 ton status

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    GREAT PICKS! I have lockrights in my 10 bolts and plan to use them when I go 14 bolt.

    BTW, does keystone light go with diff work? Cause it SUCKS for anything else:haha:
     
  3. hunterguy86

    hunterguy86 1/2 ton status

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    Ya thats my buddys beer of choice. I usually go for the lonestar or budlight.
     
  4. CB77GMC

    CB77GMC 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Cool Beans :waytogo: Good write up hope to be do'in the same soon. :D
     
  5. Chrisblazzer89

    Chrisblazzer89 1/2 ton status

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    Awsome I think I wil get a lockrite for my 14BFF
     
  6. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Good writeup. The Detroit is a little easier since you don't have to mess with springs and stuff. The Detroits are ready to drop in. You unbolt the carrier halves, remove the old spiders and shims, drop in the Detroit, and reassemble the carrier then unbolt the bolt the Detroit has in it holding it all together.

    Harley
     
  7. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    So how do you like the lockrite in the rear? Do any donuts in it yet?
     
  8. hunterguy86

    hunterguy86 1/2 ton status

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    I like the lockright a lot. It does well off road, and is pretty good on the road as well.

    I have only got about a week of driving on it though because I broke my u joint on my driveshaft on friday night. When it went, it seems that it took out the output shaft bearing in the NP 208, after destroying the transfer case yoke. So I get to tear apart my transfer case to replace it.
     
  9. rcamacho

    rcamacho 1/2 ton status

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    Looks familiar :) I installed one in my 14BFF about a year ago. The lockright has been a great addition offroad but a bit harsh on the street with a manual transmission. Check your rear u-joints often as the locker puts more stress on the drivetrain.
     

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