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14 bolt or dana 70

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sublmnl1990, Nov 10, 2004.

  1. sublmnl1990

    sublmnl1990 1/2 ton status

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    well I just got a call and now there is a dana 70 single available. What you think keep with 14 ff or should I go for the dana 70? Its the same price as what I paid for the van 14 bolt $300. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif L8R Nick

    see other post 14 bolt to a 14 bolt /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I'd run a Dana 70 if I came upon one. But here is a question, what gearing do you think you will be going with? I'd put a 70 under my rig because I'd like something lower than 5.13 gears. I am however placing a 14 bolt and 5.13 gears under my rig.
     
  3. sublmnl1990

    sublmnl1990 1/2 ton status

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    I am going with 4.56's /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  4. ratzila

    ratzila 1/2 ton status

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    Well both of them match in strength. The only differences is price of lockers & the 70 you can go lower than 5.13's. I would go with the 70 because of gears even though lockers are cheaper for 14b.
     
  5. ratzila

    ratzila 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I am going with 4.56's /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I would stay with the 14 bolt & put a detroit locker in it.
     
  6. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    I would stick with the 14FF it's alot cheaper to build. But if you want to get real low with your gears go with the D70 and you have different locker choices.
     
  7. sublmnl1990

    sublmnl1990 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gifso I guess I will buy this one also and have to do a coin toss to decide witch one to install. I wanted the dana to begin with but the dude could not decide if he wanted to sell it. It already has 4.56 just needs new brakes this is a decent price isn't it?($300) /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  8. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    well if it has the 4.56's go with the d70.
     
  9. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    eh if its already the ratio you want I'd go with the 70. Regearing to 4.56s on a 14 bolt is gonna cost you more than that 70 will. Especially if you pay to have it done.
     
  10. ratzila

    ratzila 1/2 ton status

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    You can get disc brake kits for the 14 bolt a lot cheaper.
     
  11. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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  12. sublmnl1990

    sublmnl1990 1/2 ton status

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    well i havent bought the 70 yet so maybe I will stick with what I got, I have the problem of setting my sights on doing something a certain way (dana 70) then things don't work out I replan everything (14 Bolt) and then the old plan comes back to life. I will put the $300 towards a locker!
     
  13. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    I would go with the 70 since it has gears you want, and another thing is that it has better ground clearance than the 14 bolt FF IIRC.
     
  14. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    I just took out my 14bolt and replaced it w/ a 70.... The 70 just looks cool under the back of a K5... not something you see everyday! I changed for 2 reasons, the 70 came out of the same truck as the 60 I put in the front, so the gears matched... and the 70 was a dually axle like the front so I am now running Hummer rims.
    I should have measured before and after, I am not sure which one had more clearance... the 14 bolt was shaved, and the 70 isn't (yet...!)
     
  15. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    Get the 70 as long as its 35 spline/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifMore clearance than a 14 bolt,1.5 35 spline shafts,and more gearing options.The only thing more expensive than a 14 bolt when rebuilding a 70 are lockers.Brakes,bearings,gears,and all that stuff is the same price between the two.Disc brakes are cheap and easy.

    I ditched my 14 bolt for a Dana 70 because I didnt want to be stuck with 5.13s /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  16. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 70 in mine. Mainly because I wanted 5.86 gears. I got a Detroit for it for $429, which isn't that much more than the 14b. I took the truck for the first time this past weekend and hammered on it and no problems from the rear end.
     
  17. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Working in a diff shop, I've seen more wasted 70s then 14b. Id say keep the 14b.
     
  18. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Working in a diff shop, I've seen more wasted 70s then 14b. Id say keep the 14b.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What kind of failures are you seeing? Are they abuse or design issues? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  19. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    Working in a diff shop, I've seen more wasted 70s then 14b. Id say keep the 14b.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What kind of failures are you seeing? Are they abuse or design issues? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    No not aboused, in fact I think all were stock trucks. Those in the older F350s and Cummins Dodges. I wouldnt clall them design issuse, because we dont see enough of them, and its not consistent, like for example, Chrysler 9 1/4" will eat a set of bearings.

    I cant remember specifically, what they needed, R&P, or just bearings. I had to do a new R&P and bearings in a Dodge, because I belive the carrier bearing let go, which wiped everyhitng out. I hadnt really thought of it until a few months ago. The other guy was doin another rear in a F350, and I brought up how we always see D 70s, but never any 14b.
     
  20. bluejeep

    bluejeep 1/2 ton status

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    Dana 70's in Fords that were behind a 4 speed and a Diesel tend to get torn up. I've known of 3 of them to have the carrier bearings spin and chew up the housings.
     

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