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14 bolt semi-floater - How much$

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bajaviking, Aug 22, 2002.

  1. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    I want to put a 14 bolt semi-floater in my truck( I want to keep the 6 lug front and rear), how much should I expect to pay around the San Diego area for one of these. From which truck would it be the easiest to adapt one to my 86 Blazer. Will I need to get a special u-joint to make it hook up to my driveshaft, if so could someone let me know which one.
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Don't bother with the 6 lug deal. All of the 6 lug ones come from 88-98 light duty 3/4 ton trucks (or half ton extended cabs with a heavy duty chassis package). You'll have to find a donor from one of those trucks and then move the spring pads and shock mounts. You'll have plenty of time to figure out the driveshaft while you're doing all the cutting/welding necessary just to make the axle bolt up.

    You'd be much better off switching to a 12 bolt or just going 8 lug.
     
  3. J.R.

    J.R. Guest

    i just did this swap in my 89, i got the rear from boyce. they did everything so it just bolted right in. with the u-joint go to napa or your parts store tell them what you did and they have one for you so you keep your factory driveshaft. i got a rear from a van so the front and rear tires are in line. someone on here was selling a simi float a while back, search the parts for sale and see if he still has it.
     
  4. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I'm gonna disagree. I run a 6-lug 14B semifloater and I still think it was the best choice for me. I like the tire and wheel selection and prices in 15", for one thing, and don't really need the beef of the 14BFF. The 14BSF is a true 3/4-ton axle and gives you more than 1/2" of additinal ground clearance compared to the FF. The 14BFF is really a one-ton. 12B's are getting hard to find around here and aren't that much better than a 10B. The 14BSF has real similar ring gear and axleshaft sizes to a Dana60, just without being full-floating. It has more strength advantage over the 12B than the 12B has over the 10.

    That said, you have two options, as no axle will be the way you want it from the factory. The 6-lugs have the spring and shock mounts in the wrong places and the ones with those in the right places are 8-lug. Either get the 8-lug and swap out the shafts and drums or get the 6-lug and move the perches and mounts. I would choose the technique based on finding a good deal on an axle with the right ratio.

    I looked into filling and drilling the 8-lug stuff into 6, but it costs almost as much as a set of new axle shafts. I built disc brakes onto mine, which was about the same price as buying a new set of drums. The brake index on the 8-lug shafts can't be machined down enough to work with the 6-lug rotors.

    You could try finding some prices on Car part.com
     
  5. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    I have a friend that can help me with moving the shock and spring locations so that will only cost me a sixpack and few bucks for materials. Is there any special precautions to take when welding on the axleshafts besides watching the heat.
     

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