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14 bsf 14bff

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by K5Dan, Nov 15, 2002.

  1. K5Dan

    K5Dan 1/2 ton status

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    looking to up grade questions is a 14b sf even close to the strength of a ff or even a dana 60 have 10b now dont want to change rims and tires 15in rim any suggestions /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. morphed86k10

    morphed86k10 1/2 ton status

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    If you want to keep 15 inch rims, its not the rear axle you have to worry about. If you want to keep 6-lug wheels, then that's an issue. The SF 14 has a 9.5 inch ring gear, and something like 33 spline axles, I believe they are a smaller diameter than the 1.5 inch 30 spline axles of the FF. Also, the FF has a 10.5 inch ring gear. A Dana 60 uses a 9.75 inch ring gear. It depends on what tire size and motor you're running, in your situation I'd probabley go for the SF, its still a pretty beefy unit, and if I just happened to run across a D60 that would bolt up as easy, I'd use that.
     
  3. K5Dan

    K5Dan 1/2 ton status

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    ive got stock 350 36in tsl radials can have dana 60 from currie built for 2300. 14sf from wrecking yard 900 dont know what id have to change to put in my blaze was thinking of going with 513 gears have 700r4 tranny 208 transfer used off road mostly mud my be getting 38 s
     
  4. morphed86k10

    morphed86k10 1/2 ton status

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    Well I guess it also depends on how much you want to spend. For 2300 you could get that salvage yard 14 bolt, and still have money for a rebuild and gear change (front and rear axles), as well as an ARB up front and whatever you want (I'd go detroit over an ARB for the rear) in the back. That's what I'd do. Unless you have oodles of 100's flowing out of your pockets, there really isn't any reason to have a custom axle made for these trucks.
     
  5. K5Dan

    K5Dan 1/2 ton status

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    dont have the oodies but dont want another 10b problem if the 14sf would hold up id go with that would it bolt right up drie shaft mods spring pads /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  6. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    You'd need a hybrid u-joint for the shaft. You can get one from Jess at High Angle (part #1310/1350). I was going to have to move the shock mounts on mine, but dunno about you or what you have set up wise.... never got around to it myself because I went another route and sold it...
     
  7. K5Dan

    K5Dan 1/2 ton status

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    on second thought i should just go with the 14 ff get rims for rear 15in till i can sell them and get new rims and tires 38s and convert to 8 lug front 513 detroit rear true trac front or arb ill let you know how it turns out any suggestions would be welcomed
     
  8. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    The 14 Bolt SF uses a C-clip like the 12 Bolt (Not sure, but pretty sure the 10 Bolt does too) The 14 Bolt FF does not use a C-clip. So in my opinion, The FF is stronger then a SF.
     
  9. RedBrute

    RedBrute 1/2 ton status

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    I am prepping a 14Bsf right now to put in my blazer. I chose it over a ff because it's lighter, better ground clearance and with disc conversion I won't worry about loosing a wheel if a c clip breaks. Now having said that, I'll probably break a c clip and it'll wreck the ring and pinion, thats my luck. Anyway, thats my choice and the logic behind it.
     
  10. Swanson52

    Swanson52 1/2 ton status

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    How does the 14sf disc brake kit eliminate the need for the c-clip to retain the axle/wheel/tire assembly?
     
  11. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    The disk brake caliper will hold in the axle theoretically, dont know how well it would work, but i geuss it could get you off the trail.
     
  12. Swanson52

    Swanson52 1/2 ton status

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    Ahhhh....now I see. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  13. 79Jimmy

    79Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    "Now having said that, I'll probably break a c clip and it'll wreck the ring and pinion, thats my luck."

    Good luck. The "c-clip" is not an inherently weak area of an axleshaft. There is no torque applied to the acctual c-clip only a tension force keeping the shaft in the housing. The weak part is the actual design of the c-clip axle and the fact that if the shaft breaks it will be outboard of the splines and then there will be nothing left (the c-clip) to keep the rest of the axle from puking out the end of the housing. No broken bits should enter the housing leading to collateral damage /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. This is where the disc brakes come in, they "should" allow the rig to limp off the trail but certainly not continue to be drivable. The shaft will no longer be supported on the broken end and will become slightly cocked in the housing /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. If driven on for long would probably ruin the outer axle bearing. I've had my 6 lug (converted) 14SF in for over a year now with zero problems so far /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    James
     
  14. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    It'll work as long as it's just a c-clip that breaks.

    If the axle shaft breaks it'll keep the tire on the truck but that's about it. The outer piece of the axle will be able to slop around and it will either ruin the bearing, the tube, or the axle (or all of them). This is of course forgetting about the caliper, pads, rotor, and caliper brackets which are all going to see a lot of force on them.

    The inner part of the shaft can slop around but that's not a real big deal as long as you go slow. However, if it were to fall out into the axle tube (I'm pretty sure there is enough room in a 10 bolt for two axle shafts but I don't know about a 12 bolt or 14SF) that'll give a side gear the ability to wreak havoc.

    Every time I powerslide my truck I'm wondering if I'm going to be looking for a new 10 bolt because I broke the c-clip and ruined something.
     
  15. doctor4x4

    doctor4x4 1/2 ton status

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    you got pm
     

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