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14B FF

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by skelly1, Dec 26, 2002.

  1. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    In the tech section on 14BB FF axle swap the following sentence is listed:

    "On newer Chevy's, the brake backing plate (picture H) will have to be changed to a press in style backing plate from a 14-bolt (SF) with 13" brakes."

    What does this mean? How much? Why? Part#? Brakes are then from SF, or are the brakes the same?

    There is also no mention of emergency brake cable.
     
  2. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Which article? I found like 3 that had something to do with the 14 bolt.
     
  3. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    This one

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    On newer Chevy's, the brake backing plate (picture H) will have to be changed to a press in style backing plate from a 14-bolt (SF) with 13" brakes.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    As to answering your question.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. Sorry I can't be of help yet. I'll be doing the swap this summer.
     
  4. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I think it has to do with the different e-brake setup on the newer Chevs. not positive though...
     
  5. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    When does the "newer" years start? 87? Mine is a 90.
     
  6. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I think it has to do with the body style. So it would depend on what you pulled the axle out of. Get one out of any 3/4 ton truck older than '88 and you should be fine.
     
  7. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    Any other things that need to be changed? U-joint conversion and keep the U-bolt and spring plate from the FF?
     
  8. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    You'll need some u-bolts. The axle housing is larger. Would recommend getting new ones as they are not that expensive. Its a pretty straitforward swap.
     
  9. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    Does the driveshaft need modification after this is done? Mine is still stock length, with the 1" spacers between the cross member and the frame to lower the rear of the transmission.
     
  10. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    No, driveshaft length should be fine. 10 bolt and 14 bolt yoke lengths bolt up to be about the same length. If there is a slight difference, it won't be significant enough to have to modify your driveshaft.
     
  11. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />

    Does the driveshaft need modification

    [/ QUOTE ] Are you planning on a suspension lift ??? Doing it at the same time as the axle swap is a good idea. Depending on how high you go will determen if any driveshaft mods are needed.
     
  12. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    I've got 4" lift springs already installed. They seem to be more like 3" or the fronts are 5" because it sits an inch or so higher in the front.
     
  13. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    A set of add-a-leaf in the rear would fix that.
     
  14. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    What's that gonna cost me?
     
  15. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Add-a-leafs will only work if he's got stock springs and blocks. If he has lift springs...he'd need custom add-a-leafs made. With lift springs...you'll have to go with ord's 1" zero-rate.
     
  16. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Read above post about going add-a-leaf, or zero-rate. But, if you have blocks and a stock spring pack...add-a-leafs can be found for ~$50/pair.
     
  17. woody9

    woody9 1/2 ton status

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    back to the original question, i think there's 2 syle E-Brake cables. You're 90 probably has the same type my 91 sub does (un-equal length cables that are 'push-in' style @ backing plate). My donor 14FF was from an 80 and had the 'looped' style cable (if i remember right??) and had a flange that bolted to the backing plate to secure it. I think you've got 4 options....
    1. E-brakes are optional equipment and forget they existed. (not recommended for all situations)
    2. convert to rear-disc brakes and using truck calipers see option 1.
    3. convert to rear-disc brakes and hunt down some late 70's Caddy elDorado calipers with the E-Brake hardware. The actuating lever is hard to find and doesn't come with re-mans as I understand it. Bring plenty of cash.
    4. Custom made cables. There's a few posts somewhere around that list some sources for them.
    Good luck on it! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  18. rockink5

    rockink5 1/2 ton status

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    As far as the brake cables, you can take both style cables and mix and match the brackets to make work. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Do a search I know it's there. It works great, did this 6 month's ago, use my E-brake everyday and have had 0 probs. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  19. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The year split between the backing plates for the e-brake cables is '82 and '83. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     

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