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14BFF Brake Help...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by SCJimmy, Nov 26, 2003.

  1. SCJimmy

    SCJimmy 1/2 ton status

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    OK, here's the deal.

    Been working on the 14 bolt over the last few days...

    I am installing a HAD E-brake, but am not ready to convert to disc in the rear. I need to continue to run the drum setup till January, but without e-brake cables attached to the backing plates/adjuster arms. Is this feasable? Will I be able to adjust the drum brake to work properly with out the e-brake cable hooked up?

    /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    Byron
     
  2. SF87K5

    SF87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Yes you will. I have a 14 B ff in my 85 I put in last weekend. We had no problem adjusting the rear drum brakes.
     
  3. SCJimmy

    SCJimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks!, If you don't mind me asking, how did you go about adjusting the brakes? I was planning on running the adjusters in until the drums won't turn, then backing out two clicks.

    Art of Zen kind of thing, or just "try adjusting it till it stops good"? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Thanks!
    Byron
     
  4. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Far as I know they should self adjust when you back up. I loosend mine all the way up and they adjusted themselves.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Does your brake pedal sink to the floor?
     
  6. SCJimmy

    SCJimmy 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Does your brake pedal sink to the floor?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    It did when I first installed the axle, even after bleeding. I turned the adjusters thru the backing plates until the drums were beginning to drag the pads, then bled all four corners again. Pedal was better, but the right rear wants to lock up under moderate pedal pressure.

    Thanks for the replies!
    Byron
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    You always want to manually adjust before hitting the brakes... *always*.

    Otherwise you can blow a cylinder completely out, or damage the piston so that it fails soon after. I generally run them up manually till I feel it drag. Hit the brakes lightly to seat the shoes. Adjust, and repeat. When I can hit the brakes lightly and it still has a slight "swoosh" turning, back off one notch and that should be a good place to start. Then bleed the brakes if needed. After bleeding you might check adjustment again if you don't trust the auto adjusters...

    On the grab, sounds like it might need more bleeding, better adjustment, or you may have an oiled down set of shoes.
     
  8. SF87K5

    SF87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I did what BadDog did. For some reason my pass side rear grabs before my driver rear. So I need to back off on the pass side a lil more. Make sure you bleed the line at twice. First one before you drive, then again after you drive about 10 miles.
    We bled mine after we did the swap till there was no air. I did mine again the other day and got some air.
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    It did when I first installed the axle, even after bleeding. I turned the adjusters thru the backing plates until the drums were beginning to drag the pads, then bled all four corners again. Pedal was better, but the right rear wants to lock up under moderate pedal pressure.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    Exactly. Baddog was going down the same lines I was going to!

    I ALWAYS adjust them out until they drag so I can bleed them and so they'll work. If you leave them all loose, there's no way your back brakes will ever adjust all the way out, and you'll never have any brake pedal. Self adjusters are made to take up the space between the drum and shoes for wear, not take up the 1/4" of slack you just made loosening them up all the way!! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  10. SCJimmy

    SCJimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys!

    I'm going to pull my drums tomorrow to check the wheel cylinders. Then I'll try adjusting and bleeding them as everyone suggested.

    It's amazing how you can swap springs, tear down and rebuild axles, swap them in, mod the Tcase and drive shafts, and then get crossed up on something simple like the rear brakes!

    Thanks again for the comments and help.

    Byron
     

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