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14bff or d60

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by 4xrick, Feb 10, 2005.

  1. 4xrick

    4xrick 1/2 ton status

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    im not sure what all the difference is between a 14bff and a rear 60 I know the clearance is better on a 60 but is it as strong? wha would you run? and why? just looking for some input here.
     
  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    14 bolt FF because they are cheap, and easy too find. Also, Detroit Locker for it is fairly cheap. The 14 bolt FF is pretty damn strong. In my opinion, it's the better deal.
     
  3. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    A dana 60 has a smaller ring gear than a 14FF (same size as a 14SF though). They are not as strong as the 14FF but they can be better suited for smaller tires in the 33-35" range.

    I am rebuilding a Dana 60FF rear to put into my '79 to replace the 14SF I put in there already with a gov-loc. Plus it came with a factory Power-Loc and 4.10 gears from a 1966 GMC so the spring pad spacing is even correct for my truck. The shock mounts have to be moved but that is a very minor thing to deal with.
     
  4. 4xrick

    4xrick 1/2 ton status

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    well i have an option of trading a 14bff and a d44 for a rear d60 and wondering if i should do it it already has 4 10 gears but i am going to be running 38 or 39.5 tires so i dont want the weaker of the 2
     
  5. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    For 38's I'd say keep the 14FF and shave it. You will have plenty of clearance and a stronger axle.
     
  6. COCHEV

    COCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    i wouldn't trade both your front and rear axles for the rear 60. maybe trade the 14 bolt for the 60, but not both. i think a 60/44 combe would be cool. everyone has a 14 bolt.
     
  7. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    You can get alot lower gears for a D60 or D70 rear. I have always been under the impression that a D60/FF14 rear are pretty much the same for strength.
    I just put the D70HD in my K5 and I am not worried about breaking it at all.:grin:
     
  8. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Actually the 14FF and the Dana 70 are about equal in strength comparing ring gears and axleshafts. Dana 60 is pretty strong too, just not as strong as a 14FF.
     
  9. 4xrick

    4xrick 1/2 ton status

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    what i have kinda heard before now is the same as kenny is saying that the 60 is not quite as stong as a 14bff I have a 60 in the front and was just thinking weater the rear would be as strong but i am thinking i will just stick with the 14bff i already have.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2005
  10. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    Putting a 60 in mine, they are cheaper than the 14 bolts and I don't want to have too much unsprung weight or clearance issues. The 14 bolt-Dana debate can run forever. IMO figure out what tires you want to run and use what you think will work best. Whats important to you and how hard you are with your rig are purly personnal preference.

    As far as the trade for a rear 60 and both of your axles, I would do it only if the 60 was "built" and ready to run. If its a non built stock unit Do NOT do it.
     
  11. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    whiteknight had a D60 rear and upgraded to a ff14b later... might wanna ask them why.

    the ff14b is a stronger axle. A D70 rear is pretty much = to a ff14b, the D60 rear is a step down in strength.

    j
     
  12. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I guess weak and strong are a matter of point of view?
    White knight ran a rear 60 with over 5000#s, big ass boggers and a BBC. I'm sure they found with the hammer down type of driving and ratio they were running, oh and the addition of the No2 system the 14b was decided upon (also the fact that 44s and mass comp. were in the future). The 60 is beefy but the 14b/D70 are bigger. The 60 for recreational wheeling is more than adiquite......
     
  13. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    yeah, the rear 60 is a decent axle, dont get me wrong. There are non-ff and lower spline rear D60s though aren't there? I really don't see the point in swapping in a non-ff axle into a chevy, something to watch out for I guess.

    j
     
  14. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Yep. There has been posts about this before. I have seen more busted 70s the 14b at work. Id keep the 14b.
     
  15. white_knight

    white_knight 1/2 ton status

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    We ran the rear Dana 60 before we had NOS. Yes, we broke many many rear axles , yes it we run a BBC so we spin the 44's .
    Difference between at 14 bolt and Dana 60. The Dana 60 gives you abour 3/4 of an inch more ground clearance . You can always shave a 14 bolt.
    The dana 60 are 30 spline axles - you can upgrade them to the Dana 70- axles - 35 spline - I'm sure that's not too cheap.
    14 bolts are around, the axles are beefy.
    Depends on the type of wheeling you do. We have not broken an axle since we put the 14 bolt in
     
  16. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    Very true.
     
  17. 4xrick

    4xrick 1/2 ton status

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    ya i defenatly think im going to stick with the 14bff.
     
  18. JDBlazer454

    JDBlazer454 1/2 ton status

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    The 14 bolt is a better rearend if it's a full floater. DON'T get a semi floater, they're crap. 14 bolts are really cheap & easy to find as well. I've beat on them hard for many years and have never blown one up. The only downfall is the ground clearance. If you plan on running 36s or bigger, I'd definately go with the 14 bolt. 35s or smaller, you may want to consider something else. I started running the 14 bolt with 35s and it was just an anchor and overkill as far as strength goes. If you're running a bigger, more aggresive tire, then the 14 is without a doubt the way to go.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2005
  19. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    One last point is you can put a Detroit Locker in a 14BFF YOURSELF for about $325ish.............no setting up gears, etc. Can't do that with a D60.
     
  20. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldnt say that. I have never seen a broken SF. There actually a good axle.



    You can. Everyone thinks the gears have to be reset up when you change carriers which is incorrect. Nohting changes. You check the pattern and backlash before you take it apart, put the ring gear on the new carrier and put it back in, re-checkng the backlash and pattern. Same thing goes with a re-bearing job.
     

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