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14BOLT FF hub question :Please Read: part 2

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CHEVY 4WD, Aug 7, 2003.

  1. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    Ok if you read my first post about this you found out im a idiot because I dident have a spindle washer. Well now you guys gotta tell me why im still a idiot I got the washers today put them on well one side is GREAT but the otherside does the same thing moves all around on the hub I replaced the inner bearing(agin) and race Hoping this would help but of course it dident. Im really getting tired of throwing money at it and nothing coming back out can some one PLEASE help me agin? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
    If nothin I said makes since bacially the hub wont tighten down one 1 side
     
  2. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    ok and when we put the hub on...and when it moves, it seems like the outer bearing is staying still, and the hub is moving around it? anybody had this experience? im sick of him throwing money at it and nothing coming back out /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  3. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Well, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but since you say you already installed the washers first and still have movement.............. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    I'm gonna go ahead and speak from experience that you may have a bad bearing hub. By this, I mean the machined surface where the race sits may be worn out and therefore causes the race to sit too far inboard. With the race sitting too far in, the nuts can be tightened as tight as you want and the bearing hub is still gonna move in and out slightly.

    The easy solution/fix to this problem is to find another replacement bearing hub that has no worn race seat. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  4. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    im gonna go to a bearing shop today at lunch if i can and see if they might have a shim or spacer that could go behind the outer race and push it outwards some, i never heard of a race shim or spacer until last night and it sounds feasable...i figured it was in the hub since the one hub does it on both sides and the other is fine on both sides...
     
  5. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    theres no other way? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I got to much money in these hubs to trow them away (machine work)
     
  6. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    1-Have you tried both hubs on the same side of the axle to see if the hub is good?
    2-After trying #1…if they both fit good then it’s your axle housing..
    3-If the one still is loose, check the washer thickness the depth of the race bore and the walls for scuffing…
     
  7. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    You've had both wheel bearings out of the hub, right? If so, check to see if the outer bearing is reinstalled/seated correctly.

    The outer bearing and race should be installed first and then a large snap ring goes on the inboard side of the race. Once the snap ring in installed turn the hub over and use a punch to push the race back against the snap ring.

    I don't know if this is your problem but I do know that the outer bearing is a tricky install since the 14 bolt snap ring set up isn't used on other axles.

    Does the hub appear to be seated in it's correct postion when compared to the opposite side? If not, look for any burs or scoring on the spindle. The spindle may not necessarily be bad but it may have a mark on it preventing one of the bearings from sliding all the way into position (hence the nuts bottoming out on the outer bearing and the hub still moving around).
     
  8. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    Oops, looks like I clicked one time too many. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

    I'll call this a pad post on my way to 1k! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  9. TruckNutzDude

    TruckNutzDude 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Oops, looks like I clicked one time too many.

    I'll call this a pad post on my way to 1k!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    999 post on the board, 999 posts! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I'm such a loser /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    theres no other way? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I got to much money in these hubs to trow them away (machine work)

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ok, I did fix the problem bearing hub I had once, and its still on the road today, under a different truck that I sold out.

    What I did was simple: I got a spare washer (the one that goes on first before the inner spindle nut) and ground the little tab off that slides onto the keyway slot. Basically made it an actual round washer without the tab. By grinding that little tab off, you allow the washer to slide past the ends of the threads so it will tighten up the bearings. Use the regular washer after this modified washer and then the inner nut, tang washer, outer nut. Should be good to go after that. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Disclaimer: I still highly recommend you to find or locate another bearing hub that is still good and not worn. While my fix for the loose bearing hub is not guaranteed to last forever, I still would rather replace the bearing hub and know its good rather than knowing it was "fixed" with that modified washer. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  11. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys Im gonna replace the outer race and bearing(never did just the inners) if it still dosent work then Ill grind on the washer and start looking for another hub. At a local speed shop they told me they could put some rear end shims behind the inner race

    does anyone have any pix of those snap rings?
    Does it go in from the top? I did notice that the outer bearing always twitst up when I try to put the hub on on that side does it go on jus like the snap ring on the front end(before the locking hub)?
     
  12. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  13. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of the hub set up.

    The snap ring is not like the front at all. The outer bearing goes into the hub from the inboard side (the opening on the outboard end of the hub is too small for the bearing) in this order: bearing (taper pointed towards the seal) / race / snap ring. Once the bearing and race are installed put the snap ring in, there is a groove in the hub for it. After the snap ring is seated, flip the hub over and drive the race back against the snap ring.

    The outer bearing will move around during installation because it's loose just like on the front wheel bearings. Once the hub is on deep enough for the bearing to slide on the spindle it will straighten up.
     
  14. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    do you need pic's of the hub...I have mine out so I could get you some...did you try the hub on the other side?
     
  15. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    .i figured it was in the hub since the one hub does it on both sides and the other is fine on both sides...

    [/ QUOTE ]
    read my post up that way...we tried both hubs on both sides, one is fine on both sides, the other is crap on both sides, and if we forgot the snapring on one side, chances are its not in the other side either..btw it is setup for disc brake conversion so it has 3/4 front rotors bolted to the hub instead of the normal drum, i remember taking those snaprings out when we pulled the drums off but i dont remember if we put them back in...guess thats tomorrows job eh?
     

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