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14bolt FF vrs. 12bolt + FF Kit

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Blazer79, Aug 16, 2001.

  1. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    I was wondering. I've been buying all the stuff for my 12 bolt build up for a while now. I already have the TSM conversion kit, calipers, pads, 3.73 gears (even for the front). It's a lot of money. I'm only missing the ring & pinion installation kit.

    Now a 454 came to my life and I'm about to install it. I know most people's opinion is that the 12 bolt will only marginally hold it with the stronger engine, but I really don't like the idea of buying a junkyard 14 bolt, a new TSM kit, new wheels, replace worn bearings, etc.

    So I was considering the Warn Full Floater conversion kit from ORD. Will it make my 12 bolt as strong as a 14 bolt? I know about the larger, ring & pinion and thicker axles in the 14 bolt. But is the kit as good as described? Anyone tried it?

    I know that the 12 bolt's weak links are the C-clips. What about the C-clip eliminator kits I read about somewhere?

    After installing the kit, will the next weak link be the breaking of the 12 bolt ring or pinion with the 454 (It's practically stock now) ?

    Your opinions are welcome.

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  2. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Well, the disc brakes on the 12B will retain a broken axleshaft. But you'll still have a broken axleshaft to deal with...
    The full-float kit is pretty expensive, but will strengthen the whole assembly quite a bit (shafts only transferring power, not supporting weight).
    I THINK most c-clip eliminator kits are geared toward drag cars, and aren't strong enough to handle the side loads of off-road use. Someone else should be able to confirm or deny this...

    Personally, with a 454 going in, I'd make the move to a 14B, either full or semi-float, and sell what I'd bought to upgrade the 12B. But that's just me... If you do stick with the 12B, get a diff cover that preloads the carrier bearings. Much stronger. I think TA Performance makes one, and I know you can get one from Summit.

    It's always darkest just before it goes pitch-black...
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  3. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Definately axe the idea of a C-clip eliminator kit! They were designed for drag racing and cannot handle the side loads that are put on the bearing while off-road!

    Your other question is a good one! Not sure what to tell ya though! What are the specs on the 454? Stock, built, ???

    Mike

    <font color=green>"It's like a sore dick deal, You cant beat it!"</font color=green>

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  4. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    Step up to the 14 bolt before spending any more money on the 12. You'll be ahead in the long run, 14s usually go for around $100 around here, most have 4.10s w/the occasional 3.73 or 4.56s.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  5. keith

    keith 1/2 ton status

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    If you don't wheel it crazy hard you will be fine with the 12. This 1 ton thing is like in hot rod magazine years ago. They told everyone you must have a 4 bolt main if you want it to make power. well its just not true!! My 12 has held up fine and so has Grims, and Jim and Depdog. All active 4wheel club members the wheel often. So don't give up on the 12. It will work harder than you think. Oh and I run 38's


    79 Blazer 6"lift 38 SX's locked/4:56 <a target="_blank" href=http://www.keith.rockcrawler.com>www.keith.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Yup really depends what you do IMO. It may be cheaper just to get a 14B and go from there since the FF kits are mighty spendy. I agree that the 12B's can handle some serious abuse. Lot of guys runningthem... with the BBC your main key is gonna be throttle control ( [​IMG] Did I just say that???). Also if the 12B is locked it is gonna be much easier to break then if it is open.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
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  7. flcpl4fn

    flcpl4fn 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know from first hand experince, because i still run a 10b. But from what I have read, you can get the 14b ff, put in all new stuff, and maybe wheels, for what you are going to spend on the ff kit. good luch in your choose. Don

    '85 Jimmy in Jax, Fl
     
  8. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Jarhead:

    Those diff covers are very expensive, aren't they? Almost as a used 14 bolt if I remember well.

    Since I'm in Guatemala, any deals would be killed by shipping charges. and nobody in my country is as crazy as me to spend all this money in an old truck.

    Emmet:
    The 454 is practically stock. The previous owner rebuilt it for his tow truck, but it's mostly stock. Almost everyone in my country considers that anything beyond stock is "race use only" and/or "too expensive".

    Just for curiosity (I'm not gonna use one) What is the c-clip eliminator kit about? How does it eliminate the c-clips?

    Pcorssmit:
    You guys are lucky to get them that cheap! Over here they go around $300

    Keith:
    38" tires!!![​IMG]!!! Man that's a lot. I bet you do take good care of it on the trail, huh? The largest I'm planning is 35" SSRs. I guess mine should hold even without the FF kit, right?

    CaptCrunch &amp; flcp4fn:
    I did some research locally and found 14 bolts at about $300-$350. A set of 5 used 8-lug wheels about another $200-$400. TSM kit for the 14 bolt $279.95. That would bring me to about $579 to catch up to where I am with my 12 bolt. And this still leaves me with a 6-lug front. Maybe another $300 for a front Dana 60? This would bring it to about $879. The price of the full-floater kit is $805. The difference is not that much. I thought, maybe a 12bolt + ff kit could have some advantages over the 14 bolt. That's why I posted this question.

    Easier to break if locked? It's open right now, but let's say I get a Lockrite or a No-Slip. What exactly would break in this case?

    Thank you all for your replies. Keep them coming.

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  9. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    A locker in the rear will break an axleshaft, most likely.
    Yes, the cover is a little expensive (around $130 from Summit, for us in the US), but if you should decide to stick with the 12-bolt, it will definitely help strengthen it. Carrier bearings will last longer, gears will last longer, shafts will have a little less stress on them.

    $300 for a front Dana 60?? Maybe you should start shipping them up here... Even after shipping they'd probably still be cheaper than what we pay up here!!

    It's always darkest just before it goes pitch-black...
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  10. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I destroyed a 12 bolt with a stock 305. If you're putting in a big block, I don't care what you do to a 12 bolt, you've still got an 8.875" ring gear and if you lock it and beat on it, you'll break it.

    Just save yourself the hassle and get a 14 bolt. I have a 14 bolt SF. At least that's better than a 12 bolt. I'm looking at getting a FF later when I get a Dana 60.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  11. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    Thats quite interesting, Tim, seen' as just yesterday you posted on another thread (the one about the Jeep w/the broken axle) "I have had three different c-clip axles in my truck and I have never had any problem. I had a 10 bolt, then a 12, now a 14 SF."

    WTF?

    Pete


    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     

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