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14bolt is leaking

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 88burb, Dec 15, 2004.

  1. 88burb

    88burb Registered Member

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    my 14 bolt is leaking from the pinion support how hard is this to fix any info would help.... thanks lance
     
  2. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Sure its not coming from the yoke seal itself? That would leak right down onto the pinion support and would be hard to detect on a dirty axle.
     
  3. 88burb

    88burb Registered Member

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    no im pretty sure its coming from the support
     
  4. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    Mine is leaking from the pinion seal. Anyone have a "how-to" on resealing these monsters?
     
  5. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Undo the driveshaft, remove the bolts holding the pinion carrier, remove the carrier,, clean the surfaces, use alittle rtv sealant, reassemble,,,,,how hard can it be,,,,
     
  6. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    It is easy, but RTV is not suppose to be used there. Theres no need. If it is leaking from the pinion drop out, pull i t out, clean it, and put it back together.
     
  7. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah, well, there's alot of things we do to these trucks that "is not supposed to be used" but we do it, and it works. I am not saying goop the hell out of it, just a very thin coating to seal up any imperfections to help prevent any further leaking.
     
  8. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    The carrier will come out without affecting the gears? If I go that far, I'll go ahead and replace the seal. The gasket for the pinion housing is not my problem, the seal for the yoke is.
     
  9. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    The pinion support doesn't use a gasket. It uses a thin gauge shim that is used to set the pinion depth during gear setup. If you add to the thickness, you will mess up the gear setup and cause premature wear and/or destruction.

    That being said, I don't think a thin thin film of RTV on both sides of the shim will hurt anything. The key there is to get all mating surfaces as clean and dry as possible. Torque em down to the proper setting (I dont remember what it is), and call it a day.
     
  10. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Remove Driveshaft.

    Count number of threads that are above the pinion nut.

    Mark pinion nut and shaft relation so that when you reinstall, you will be EXACTLY where you were before you pulled it apart. This is key as you do NOT want to further crush the crush sleeve.

    Remove pinion nut and use a 2 or 3 jaw puller to get the yoke off.

    Check yoke to seal surface for signs of gouging or scoring. Anything excessive and you possibly will have to replace the yoke or get a speedi sleeve, otherwise you'll be doing this job all over again very soon.

    Remove old seal.... Noting depth of original seal.

    Clean up seal mating surface.

    Install new seal (rub some gear oil on the new seal before install) and tap it down til you match the depth of the original seal.

    Reinstall pinion, and tighten down pinion nut to same number of threads it had before you pulled it apart and line up the mark you made.

    Reinstall Driveshaft.

    Clean up any residual gear oil so that its easier to spot any future leaks.


    enjoy!!
     
  11. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the great write-up. I guess the pinion is a tight fit on the input shaft. Sounds like a quick job.
     

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