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14ff ebrake mismatch...what have you guys done?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Jersey, Nov 21, 2001.

  1. Jersey

    Jersey 1/2 ton status

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    Getting ready to do the swap this weekend and i know my ebrake cables aren't the same as what was on the 14b i'm putting in. What have you guys done to resolve? Any way to mount my stock cables onto the 14b backplate? thanks.

    - Jersey

    '91K5 - 350, 700R4, NP241, FlowMasters, 33's
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  2. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Yes sir this is very easy. Got this great idea from Esteban.

    Remove the E-brake cables from the 14 bolt. Now take the little "sandwich" plate that bolts the cable to the backing plate and cut a slit in the one that is on the cable. This will allow you to slide it onto your stock cable. Then simply put the plate back together onto your stock cable and re-mount to the backing plate. The only problem your gonna have with this is that your passenger side cable will be too short to connect to the driveside adjustment bracket if you have the "large" 14 bolt brake drums. Some 14 bolts came with smaller brake drums. If you have the smaller ones this wont be a problem.
    In my case I had the large drums so I had to make an extention bracket for the cable to attach and be long enough to still be able to adjust the e-brake cable.
    I used a corner bracket that you would use on say a wood deck frame and bent it to that it was a rectangular box, then drilled a hole in the center of each end. One end had the cable coming from the e-brake pedal and the other end had the stock bracket where both cable comes from the backing plates bolted to it. Now the adjustment bolt is inside the rectangular box, still accessable for a wrench to adjust the nut.

    Surgeon General's Warning:
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  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Also back to the sandwich plate... You will see that part of the sandwich plate has a wrap around type shapethat clamps it to the cable. This plate is very stiff, so it will take some jiggering to get it stretched out enough to get the other cable in. then you can re-clamp it with some big channel-locks or something of that nature. Dont worry about the slit you cut in the one piece. Once it is bolted back to the backing plate you wont have any problems with it being week cause it all bolts back together and keeps that clit from opening up any further.
    I had a cut off wheel on a die-grinder with air compressor for this process. It took me all of about 2 hours, plotting and working to get this all done. and best of all it was free.

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  4. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    I just finished doing that to my truck last night, works awesome. It will make more sense when you get in there and start doing it. Also make sure you remember how all the cables hook up at the adjustable bracket, I hooked mine up wrong and they aren't fun to get off.

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 6" lift, 36" TSL Radials, 14 Bolt, Rancho 9012s
     
  5. Jersey

    Jersey 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks bud and thanks dawson. i was just going to put the 14 in with out the ebrake and do it at a later date but since i have those "plates" that bolt onto the backing plate that held the old cable, and they are spread already, i'll just give your suggestion a shot. Thanks again for the info.

    - Jersey

    '91K5 - 350, 700R4, NP241, FlowMasters, 33's
    <a target="_blank" href=http://pages.zdnet.com/len1313/myk5>[/b]PICS[/b]</a>
     

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