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14ff rear disc brake settings......

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by barryb, Mar 6, 2004.

  1. barryb

    barryb Registered Member

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    hey, i need some advice here.... i just put a 14ff and dana 44 under my 90 blazer , building up for the 38 ssr's i bought, anyway, the rear drums were shot so i did some reading and research here in the site and basically followed the a-tron write up and used the caddy calipers and a wilwood prop. valve for the rear.

    I am still confused about the master cylinder. I have bled it to death, i had new fittings put on the lines at the m/c and went completely around the stock c/v and abs stuff, but i still think the pedal has too much travel before it builds pressure to stop.

    will changing the m/c help this?? I looked at a 1 ton m/c at the parts store today and the bore was smaller. I would have thought that it would need to be larger diameter to move more fluid with the same stroke. is this right??
    assumming i have it bled correctly is there anything else i can do to make the pedal have pressure higher in the stroke ??

    thanks guys
     
  2. mr_fujisawa

    mr_fujisawa 1/2 ton status

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    if i remember correctly you need to use a trans am master cylinder. can;t remember the year. maybe somebody else will remember. 80 something. they had all disc brakes.

    hope that helps a little
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Ya gotta reindex the parking brake lever so that the pads are pretty well snugged up against the rotors. Then you'll have brakes again. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  4. barryb

    barryb Registered Member

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    the backs will lock up if i adjust the prop. valve for more pressure .... I was actually worried there was a problem with the rear because i had to use a hammer to but the rear calipers over the discs since i couldnt get them to open up anymore, and still after testing , i only have about 5 miles on them , think they just havent seated in, even though all the discs and pads are brand new ????
     
  5. jakeslim

    jakeslim 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    had to use a hammer to but the rear calipers over the discs

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
     
  6. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    When you say you had to use a hammer to put them on, are you saying there was either too much pad or too much rotor to put them on or did the caliper fit too tightly in between the ears of the bracket?
     
  7. barryb

    barryb Registered Member

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    hey, !! not the big one !! hahha /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif just barely had to tap them on.... i checked to make sure the piston was turned all in before putting the pads on...

    the spacing from the bracket is good, it centers the caliper on the rotor. i was just trying to point out that the caliper piston does not need to clicked out by working the e-brake. harry had a good suggestion, but ive already been there...

    stompin, standing on the brakes, i still cant get it to lock up the fronts .... dont get me wrong it will stop, but i would really like to see the pedal have more feel , sooner on the stroke.

    If i need to change the m/c to a original 4 wheel disc model , what is the best model/year to use??

    and i still dont understand why the 1 ton m/c i looked at was a smaller bore ...
     
  8. jakesdad

    jakesdad Registered Member

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    I just did the az-kickin rear disc conversion this weekend on my 91 suburban. I used an 82 Corvette master cyl. It bolted right up to the hydro-boost and the stock brake lines fit with no adaptors. It is cast iron with large equal sized reservoirs and the bore looked pretty close to the stock mc. So far it is working ok with the stock combi valve. But I need to drive it more before I decide if more mods are needed. I'm glad this site had the "directions" that didn't come with the kit.
     
  9. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    hey, !! not the big one !! hahha /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif just barely had to tap them on.... i checked to make sure the piston was turned all in before putting the pads on...

    the spacing from the bracket is good, it centers the caliper on the rotor. i was just trying to point out that the caliper piston does not need to clicked out by working the e-brake. harry had a good suggestion, but ive already been there...

    stompin, standing on the brakes, i still cant get it to lock up the fronts .... dont get me wrong it will stop, but i would really like to see the pedal have more feel , sooner on the stroke.

    If i need to change the m/c to a original 4 wheel disc , what is the best /year to use??

    and i still dont understand why the 1 ton m/c i looked at was a smaller bore ...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I used a proportioning valve fron a '81 Corvette, it works great! Plus I lengthened the rod between the master cylinder & the brake pedel, by a couple of turns.
     
  10. barryb

    barryb Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I just did the az-kickin rear disc conversion this weekend on my 91 suburban. I used an 82 Corvette master cyl. It bolted right up to the hydro-boost

    [/ QUOTE ]

    i still feel like a dummy here, i still havent got it to work out like i would like it to but ...

    Isnt my blazer vacuum boost??? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    thats wont work with mine right ?
     

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