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1987 454 a good engine?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 6335, Sep 10, 2003.

  1. 6335

    6335 Registered Member

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    I have always run small blocks but thinking of installing a 454 in my 1st gen. Found a 454 today still in a 1 ton 2 wheel dullie that has 100,000K on it but runs good.I don't have much knowledge on big blocks so i was wondering what kind of deal this was? Knowing what I do it seems damb good since it runs, it's a big block, fuel injection, and its a complete engine. I will put it in without rebuilding it will it have decent power for a average big block? Saw on a old post it should have around 230 HP and 380 torque does that seem about right? I used the search button and looked back at postes from the last year and got alot of good info /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifJust kind of wondering about my situation.All opinions would be appriciated, thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  2. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    As long as it was takin care of and isnt too much $, it should be a nice improvement, assuming you have a near stock small block. Its not going to be as powerful as the older 454's due to emmisions, but these obstacles are overcome with changing to closed chamber heads and a cam with some more muscle. This will cause probs with the fule injection also, so if your on a tight budget slap a carb on it. If you want something you can drop right in and not have to worry about rebuilding, make sure you check it out well with a compression tester.
     
  3. wild-will

    wild-will 1/2 ton status

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    yeah take off the fuel injection it sucks lol in my oppinion it does it will be alot easier to just bolt on an edelbrock
     
  4. 6335

    6335 Registered Member

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    So if I understand you right I will probably have to get some new heads to get any sort of power with it.In the 80's years are they just dogs because of the heads that were on them to reduce imissions?What part of the fuel injection is bad? Is it the sensors going bad or does the whole injection suck? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Do most people who are interested in a big block shy away from these years? Thanks for the help /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. 3car

    3car 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    yeah take off the fuel injection it sucks lol in my oppinion it does it will be alot easier to just bolt on an edelbrock

    [/ QUOTE ]


    yeah,it sucks having easy starting,smooth idle,and the ability to run at any angle,almost upside down,without flooding.makes me want to ditch my efi,and go get a holley with a manual choke.right. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  6. azblazor

    azblazor 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Ahhh... yeah......the BBC TBI system really sucks......why don't you take off all of it and ship it to me, I'll give you $200 plus shipping.
     
  7. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, snag it up right away, especially if its fuel injected. A lot of guys here have trouble just finding a complete FI setup, let alone a complete running engine. I just swapped a big block into my truck, and I would like to have FI on it, but I just can't afford it right now. Snap that puppy up, you can always modify it later to produce more power. You're not wasting your time or money by buying it!
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you decide to get it, grab EVERYTHING electrical in the truck. Fuse panel, all underhood wiring, fuel tanks, etc. Basically all wiring except lights and AC, and you should have a good base to start from.

    Don't cut *any* wires, it makes the setup worth less if you want to sell it, and makes it more of a pain to set up later if you decide to keep it. No need to cut anything anyways, except maybe the stupid hardwired interior light leads.
     
  9. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    It will have good power, just not as much as older years, you can upgrade as you go. regarding the FI, I meant not to use it if you dont have the time/money to hook it up, and get it to keep up with the motor one you add cam heads and intake.
     
  10. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I say go for it...I bought my 1992 TBI 454 for $1200 it was complete from air cleaner to oil pan, all the accessories, wiring harness, ECM, and even an NV4500 bellhousing and flywheel and clutch...

    I decided to rebuild it just b/c my truck was running fine and it is nice to have a chance to rebuild a motor and not lose the utility of your truck...The TBI on those are NOT designed to flow a lot of air...But TBI beats the hell outa a carb in terms of driveability ANY day...If you swap in that motor and put a crab on it, you will kick youself the first time you pitch the dose of your truck down a steep hill and the focker stalls...if you want a badass FI system, get a MPFI system from Edelbrock or something...But TBI has great reliability is VERY simple and really makes driving the truck nice (easy starts, no flooding, Do constant tuning) the 87-90 454s have HORRIBLE intakes...So I would spend some cash and get a Edelbrock Aluminum intake...Also, depending on your heads, some older heads and a cam (like a Crane 2030) wold liveing it up a bit without freaking the ECM out...

    I rebuilt my 1992 454 with a "torque design" cam (low duration and lift), put some FT pistons, new lighter rods, cleaned up the peanut port heads with a .010" shave, new aluminum Water pump...All in all, I am very happy with the motor...I NEVER designed it for high RPM horespowr, so it doesn't surprise me when it stop making power at 4000rpm..But even with 3.73 and 37" MTR, it can still do a very nice burnout...In So better heads an MPFI and a nice rooler cam canput these things in the 550+ HP range EASY

    Chris
     
  11. wild-will

    wild-will 1/2 ton status

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    hey 3car it's all about balls dude and a manual choke is it
     
  12. 3car

    3car 1/2 ton status

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    i beg to differ.its all about low end torque,driveability,and the ability to handle off-camber situations without flooding.no carb can match tbi here,period.
     
  13. 6335

    6335 Registered Member

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    Thanks for all the info. I brought it home put a new ecm in it beacuse that is what the scope said and it runs better but runs really rough from idle to say 1500 rpm. After that it runs smooth. Smells like it is running really rich, any ideas what this could be or what sensor is giving me a problem? Should I just take it in and have it put on the scope? I also replaced plug wires and plugs to see if that would help but it didn't. Any ideas would be appriciated. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    hey 3car it's all about balls dude and a manual choke is it

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Every run I've gone on, there's always a few guys that pull in and have to immediately start messing with the carb before they can wheel. I've seen the same stuff at races. That's a bunch of wasted time that can be spent working on stuff that needs it. Just use the FI and don't worry. It's nice to be able to get in, turn the key, it starts right up and run no matter where I'm at.
     
  15. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Thanks for all the info. I brought it home put a new ecm in it beacuse that is what the scope said and it runs better but runs really rough from idle to say 1500 rpm. After that it runs smooth. Smells like it is running really rich, any ideas what this could be or what sensor is giving me a problem? Should I just take it in and have it put on the scope? I also replaced plug wires and plugs to see if that would help but it didn't. Any ideas would be appriciated. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Check the EGR.
    I had some problems with my 88 454 and 90% was EGR related. There is a electronic solonoid that controls when the EGR is open. EGR is rarely open before 1500 RPM. Just unplug the line to EGR and put a vac pump on it with it running when the EGR opend it should start running bad at idle. If it doesn't change then the EGR valve is bad and possibly stuck open.
    If as soon as you unplug the EGR it starts running right then the solonoid is bad more then likly or a short causing it to open. Try unplugging the electrical connection and see if it starts running right.

    If you test drive it without the EGR hooked up it should throw a light after about 1 mile of steady speed driving.
     
  16. 6335

    6335 Registered Member

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    I'll give it a try. When it is cold it runs like it should but after it warms up it starts to run bad, any other ideas from that info? Thanks for your time. /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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