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1991 blzr axle shaft oil seal replacement

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by gumneck, Apr 19, 2003.

  1. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Guys and Gals,
    I thought i had a bad wheel cylinder but after removing wheel it looks to be axle shaft seal. Wanted to change the fluid in diff anyway. Well after picking up parts and draining diff, I proceeded to remove pinion shaft hold down bolt. Please excuse me if I called that wrong. Correct me I dont mind. Well that bolt rung off and looks like I'll be using the easy out tomorrow.I've already searched the old post and looks like I'm not the only one to do that. One guy removed the bearing cap bolts to bring carrier out enough to drill and use easy out. I will try that too.

    The question I'm having is, Where are the c-clips that hold the axles in. I'm not seeing them. When I get the hold down bolt out and remove the pinion shaft( or pin, terminology again?) will the spider gears come out allowing me to see the c-clips? I dont have a book yet for the full size blzr so I'm doing this from my s-10 Haynes book for that truck. It at least got me this far. Well sorry so long and drawn out but could use some help. I did the search but couldn't find the specifics of what to do. Appreciate the help in advance
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Not sure the exact terminology, but I know what you are talking about. It's the bolt thats inline with the axles, that holds the pinion shaft in place.

    If you did a search and found others have had good luck with ez outs, then that might work. Me, I've seen too many people have EZouts fail, and then you are really screwed.

    If you go buy about a 10" drill bit the right diameter (1/4?) you could drill that thing out. The bolt is NOT threaded at the other end, I'm betting yours broke off at the end of the threads, right where the bolt would enter the pinion shaft. Since the part you need to get out isn't threaded, I'd be more inclined to drill it out. Already have a guide for the bit, and no problem if it breaks.

    More if you don't care about the carrier, but you can cut the carrier on either side of the pinion shaft, severing that bolt. I've done it before to get axles and hears out, but not sure as I'd trust the carrier afterwards /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    As to the c-clips, the pinion shaft keeps the axles from moving in far enough for you to see them. (or at least far enough to keep them from falling off) once you pull the pinion shaft, the axles will push into the carier further, and the c-clips will fall off.
     
  3. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Dorian,
    Tks for reply. The amount of bolt that rung off is probably less than 1/4 inch not including the head of bolt itself. There must be at about another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of threaded bolt left. I'm just guessing right now. Hopefully be able to work on this after darkening the hallways of a church today( been a while for me) and easter egg hunt with 3 yr old daughter. I'll post back with progress if any.
    Tks again,
    Tom
    Chesapeake,VA
     
  4. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    unfortunately the pinion shaft lock screws are commonly known to break off, especially in dana 44's it seems, once you get it out then dealer or someone on the forum parting out an axle of same model as yours could help you, if its 8.5" 10 bolt then i can help you out, as im getting ready to remove 2.73 gears from an 81 one and part or scrap rest of it

    once you remove the lock screw jack up the rear anxe remove tires and drums and push in on end of shaft at wheel hubs and spin it alittle and C clip should fall out, they usually do anyways, then simply pull shaft out of housing, use end of shaft to pry the wheel seal out of end of axle shaft tube
    press one in with a big socket or tubing and tap hammer, and put shaft back in and push it in and slip c clip back on then let go of shaft and then put other shaft in and put lockscrew in and tightren but dont get carried away with tightening the screw, or.......

    if you do one shaft at a time then you may get lucky and not have spiders and side gear flal out of place, dont turn the carrier when shaft is out or you will have it all fall apart inside the carrier and its tricky to set them all back in if you havent messed with rears before, you have to set them in across from each other and then turn carrier a bit to get them to slip back in and interlock the teeth again,


    good luck
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Can you tell if the bolt was monkeyed with before?

    Only reason I mention this is that if the bolt is OVER tightened it can bottom out and break as well. Not real likely, but I've seen that happen too. If that is the case though, once you get the threaded part removed, the uinthreaded section may pull right out.

    This was a horrible, horrible design on GM's part, and I can't understand why it wasn't changed. I tried pulling that lock screw from 2 1993-1997 camaro's recently, and one sheared off, and the other stripped the head off, even using the correct box end wrench and banging either end of the pinion shaft to try and "free it up".
     

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