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1ton drive shaft upgrade? is it worth it

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by beater74, Sep 5, 2002.

  1. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    So i'm fix'n to install my 14ff and i need a new shaft. i have two options go with a stock replacement with the 1/2-1ton u-joints for $190 or go full blown 1 ton shaft with a CV and upgraaded yoke on my 203 (the works) for $519 /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif. so my question is it overkill to go with the 1ton shaft (the cv sure would help on any vibes) or just stick with the 1/2 toner? what would you do or have you done? /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif (all prices are from Jesse at high angle)
     
  2. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    I run a non CV in the rear, but use a shaft with 1350 yokes both ends. I kept my 1/2 shaft with conversions joints as a spare. I dont drive on the road much though. If you see a lot of street use you might want the CV style.
     
  3. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    well i HOPE to have a tow rig in a year or so but untill then it would be 2-3 hour drives to the trails. the weird thing is my wife ACTUALLY said go ahead aand get the 1ton /forums/images/icons/grin.gif but that would put my welder off for another month /forums/images/icons/frown.gif . so this is why i'm having this dilemma /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
     
  4. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    have you broken a standard shaft?
     
  5. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I assume you bought the 14 bolt because you plan on running big tires or hitting the trails hard so I would up the shaft to 1 ton. Otherwise, you'll have a 1/2 ton fusible link back there which when you most need it, will probably give. I would go with the CV either way as pointing your pinion up gets it away from the rocks.
     
  6. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    have you broken a standard shaft?


    [/ QUOTE ] nope, but i'm gunna run 39.5's . now i'm running 31 a/t's /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif on my stock 1/2 ton stuff. i don't know how well a new 1/2 ton'r will hold up to 39's. it seem alot of folks just put in a hybrid joint and run with that.
     
  7. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    Go the best what. Use a conversion joint, buy the welder now and if the rear breaks then you will have to fix it. That way you get the welder reguardless.
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    I am all for the big ujoints I would even be tempted to go 1410s

    but is a CV necessary on a K5?
    that is where the $$ is

    I have a ton of lift on a short bed and no shaft issues
     
  9. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    but is a CV necessary on a K5?
    that is where the $$ is



    [/ QUOTE ] ain't that the truth, for a 1/2 ton with a CV it's $490 /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif

    so i've got one for got the beefy one
    and one for get 1/2 ton'r
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    How much lift are you going to run?
    Her's my thought on things. If I am going to have something that blows I want it to the the easiest thing to replace. The driveshaft is pretty easy to replace. The only driveshafts I have seen fail were ones that hit rocks and ones that had an install problem. I have not seen a properly set up shaft ever fail otherwise. I run a stock driveshaft with 6 inches of lift no vibes. If I bust it a drive shaft is as close as the nearest junk yard till I can get the shaft to a shop. Retubing a shaft is not very expensive. When u-joints fail on a drive shaft at low speed you usualy can replace the j-joint and be ok. I would stay stock till you bust it. If your stock shaft is the wrong length then you can have it tubed for about $50.
     
  11. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    i'll only be running 5" of suspension lift (4"flip+1"addaleafs) so i got it figured out i'll get just a stock replacment from jeese and keep my orginal shaft as a backup and i'll still be able to get my welder /forums/images/icons/grin.gif AND i'll get MAJOR points with the wife cause i got the chaeper one /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif thanks for the advise fellas /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  12. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Amen to what Grim said. I've always been a fan of having the u-joint as the weak link. I may upgrade the t-case joints on the driveshafts to some 1 ton jobbies, but the axle ends will be staying 1330 or 1350 at the largest. When you're running a 14 bolt and a full 35 spline 60 with 1410s, you're weak link starts moving into the hard to get at expensive internal parts of the t-case and tranny. I'd much rather grenade a u-joint than a tranny mainshaft or the coupler sleeve between the 465/205. Even with the 1310s on my 1/2 ton axles I was breaking axleshafts, steering joints and ring gears instead of driveshaft u-joints.</font color>
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I would go with a 1350 shaft, but with U joints. A CV is just a bandaid for someone that doesn't want to correct their driveline angles. If you're not experiencing vibration right now, a U joint shaft will work fine. I am a firm believer in big U joints too. I don't think CV shafts are necessary unless you have 8 inches or more of lift.

    I personally have a 1350 shaft with u joints and it works great.
     
  14. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    i'm a lil new to this one ton thing 1350 are the stock u-joint on my 60 and 14 right? and 1310 are whats on my 1/2 ton? /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
     
  15. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Don't forget the CV rotates your pinion and U-Joint up out of harms way, its not just a band aid for vibration.

    I went 1410 on the yolk as well for longevity since I was eating the 1/2 ton joints regularly. I'm sure the 415 had a role in that along with the tires.
     
  16. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    CV rotates your pinion and U-Joint up out of harms way

    [/ QUOTE ] i though the only way to rotate your pinion was to rotate your spring perches. i though a CV was just one way to help the angle of the shaft?
     
  17. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    That probably should have said: a CV allows you to rotate the pinion up.
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I agree, that's very true. In my wheeling environment that wouldn't be beneficial, but if you do rocks I bet it would be.
     
  19. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah you would have to rotate the spring purches. On a taller lift yeah you can get the pinion up a lot. Problem is the cover on the axle is now down and easier to punch holes in. So then you have to get some extra diff cover protections but that's not a bad idea anyway..
    On a 4-5 inch lift your only gaining about 1.5 maybe 2 inches of clearence under the pinion. 6 inches it starts getting worth the effort. Over 6 inches your about better off to go to the CV. Your at the operational limits of the u-joints once your pushing 7 inches.
    With the tires you want to run.....Ehhh 6-7 inches is probably where your going to need to be and 5-6 on the front with the front axle offset forward. I'm at 5 front 6 rear inich forward offset on the front and 1 inch body and I'm just clearing the 35's with no scrub. At 4 front 4 rear, no body lift and front axle in stock location I was able to scrub all four tires when I was running 32's!
     
  20. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    should i go with 1350 and a combiation of hybrid u-joints is my main question now. but as far as the lift goes i'll have the 4"+1"addaleaf+1"body+a hole lota sawz all= plenty of room for 39.5's /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     

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