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2 inch lift?????

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, Aug 31, 2005.

  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I'm still deciding what I want for Christmas......... I was pretty set on a tough country 4 inch lift......... but it seems like every other post I read on here is people belly aching about drivshaft vibes, and using the BFH to attack rusty steering parts...
    http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/137203.html
    I don't see any steering mods recommended for the 2 or the 3 inch lift on this website... Wow that would be nice just to bolt up 2 springs, 2 blocks, 4 shocks, and call it a day....

    After searching everybody pretty much says go 4 inches or go home, but it seems to me like 1 or 2 inches shorter would save a TON of hassle?

    and I wrong in thinking that a 2 or 3 inch lift would drop right in???? How much tire could I eventually run with a body lift and sawzall if I went with one of these lifts???
     
  2. crazyhole812

    crazyhole812 1/2 ton status

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    if you're wanting to put on bigger tires you probably should go with the 4"
    if all you want is 2" you could probably get 32 or 33 but, hell you could get 44" on if you want to run no backspacing and cut your fenders
     
  3. renosupra

    renosupra Newbie

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    My last truck was an 83 K20. I put a 4" Skyjacker and 35" bf muds on it. Bolted right up with no issues other than the turning radius was reduced a little. I rubbed every now and then but nothing major.

    I now have an 84 K10 that I just put a 2 1/2" Pro Comp lift on with 33's. Took about 2 hours. I rub every now and then but again, nothing major, bolted right up.

    I like the 2 1/2 because this is basically a Home Depot truck and the lower to the ground you are the less you have to lift.

    But if you're going wheeling, go with the 4" and 33's or 35's. I'd also suggest that you stay away from Pro Comp, the ride is pretty rough.
     
  4. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    My 89 Burb has a 4". Us burb guys don't have to worry about vibes as much 'cause our driveshafts are much longer :D :haha:

    Really, though. Vehicles with shorter driveshafts experience more vibes when lifted.

    Get a 4", you won't regret it. I did that first and it wasn't tall enough for me, so I got the body lift. Even a 6" would be good, wish I had gone that route.

    The arm isn't bad to get off. Mine came off pretty easy. Just spray it with PB Blaster and hit it a few times with a hammer. Let it sit overnight and respray and start hitting it!
     
  5. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    I have 2.5" w/ 33's on 8" wheels and have never rubbed on my burb. Then again, it really doesn't get wheeled. If I decide to lift my burb anymore, I can turn my 2.5" lift into 4" pretty easily w/ some bolt in parts.

    My blazer has a 4" susp. lift and 3" body and I rubbed all the time with 38's, I dropped to 36's and it only rubs when I'm really flexing it.

    I am in the process of redoing my suspension on my blazer. I'll be using BDS 4" front springs, our 1" add-a-leaves, and extended HD shackles in the front for approx. 5.5" of lift. I'll be using 2" lifted rear springs and a shackle flip in the rear to get 6" of lift. I am considering using 1" body pucks, maybe 2" since I will be running 38"-40" tires again and I am not going to hack up my fenders. I am keeping my '74 nice. I'll find an older, pre-rusted, pre-abused rig for next to nothing to really chop up! :D

    Figure out what works for you. But if you're going to drop $$ on a lift, make sure it's EXACTLY what you want. Check into BDS as well. They have the best ride and best warrranty in the lsuspension lift biz IMO.
     
  6. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    ttt
    anyone else think a 3" is a waste of money?? any other opinions? Man the idea of just dropping in springs sounds nice.. I could always use zero rates and move the front axle foward (as if a need a longer wheelbase than already :haha: ) and cut the fenders out...

    3 inches doesn't require a different steering arm according to the website.. man that would be nice....

    this will be used to play in poser mud... nothing much more.. NO ROCKS, maybe a little trails...

    I need to hear I'm retarded from a few others before I recant my idea.. :wink1:
     
  7. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    i got my steering arm off real easy. just use pd-blaster and let it soak for 10min or so. after that i beat it in the sweet spot about 15 good hard times with a REGULAR hammer and it started to pop lose. once u break the initial seal u are ok. dont let the steering correction scare you away from a 4" lift
     
  8. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    10-4

    4 'tis
     
  9. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    definitely look into BDS. i got 8" springs front and rear :eek1: i know, haha. but they ride exceptionally well, and when flexing i actually rub with 35s (true 34")!! that was something i was really impressed with.

    they also got the best warrantee in the business! you cant go wrong with that
     
  10. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    the bigger the better in my opinion, but I don't want to get into driveshaft mods, so I think I won't be going any higher than 4 inches....

    About how much does BDS cost compared to tough country?
     
  11. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    well i know ur not lookin for 8" springs, but jus for a reference, i paid $320 for front and $320 for rear
     
  12. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    If that's what you're after, 4" will be better than 2-3", IMO.

    I don't think 3" is a waste of money since I just installed a set of rear 3" TC to go along with my 2.5" springs up front. I like the 2-3" lift for what I do, on the rocks. I don't like the idea of going to a 4"+ lift and then lowering the t-case 1" for better angle. I'm going to do the opposite and lift the truck only 3" and clock the tcase up.
     

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