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2" lift optons

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by caleb22, Apr 22, 2005.

  1. caleb22

    caleb22 1/2 ton status

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    89 Silverado Blazer

    I was looking to buy the new poly bushings and 1" body lift, but I would really like to get 2" of lift at least. I was doing the body lift as a cheap alternative for some clearance. I have some new Rancho RS5000 shocks, just looking for a reasonable 2" lift kit. I see the 4" kits for my make/model are $1400...alot for my wallet right now.

    I don't really want to add leaf springs if I can help it though.
     
  2. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Lifts for your truck are not $1400. That is the lifts for 88+ pickups that are IFS.

    Lifts for your truck should start around $400 and work up from there depending who and what you want.

    An easy way to get 1" more lift is to use a 1" zero rate add a leaf. They are a 1" thick piece of metal that bolts into your current leaf spring packs giving you 1" of boost.

    They are like $40 for a set. You will need to sets. You may also need new ubolts to go with them.

    With the money factor involved a 2.5" lift spring and a 2.5" block would probably be the better route to go. It will cost you more but it will ride better up front.

    Harley
     
  3. caleb22

    caleb22 1/2 ton status

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    I would like to put on some Mickey T's Baja Claws 33x12.50x15. Someone told me I would need to change out the gears to a 3:73 I think. Anyone know if that's the case?
     
  4. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

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    Do you know what gears you have now?
     
  5. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    Here is the setup I would run

    1" Zero Rate up Front $40
    2 1.5" Shackle flip for the rear $185
    1" body lift $75.50

    Probably around $350 shipped

    Should sit level considering the normal rear end sag. You wouldn't have to worry about longer drive shafts.
     
  6. Pow06er

    Pow06er 1/2 ton status

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    i plan to run 1" zero rates and 2" aal on mine with 33x12.50s on 15x10s

    or i might just run a 3" block out back
     
  7. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    There's lots of ways that are all really close in price here. I think I'd recommend doing a new 2" front spring, that way you get out of the typically sagged out GM fronts. For the rear you could do the flip or a block, probably a 3" block for budget reasons and on a light duty wheeler/street driver, it will work OK.
    With this 2", you should do OK with a 33" tire, depending of course on how you use it. You won't need steering correction but probably will need new shocks and you'll need to check the brakelines to make sure they're going to reach. Driveshafts will still be OK.
    My first lift on my K5 was a set of re-arched front springs and a beefed up rear pack that still ended up too low so I had a 2" block. It worked well for years but it was basically a pavement truck with occasional muddy/rocky roads. I ran 33x9.50's and 255/85's with no clearance problems. It was stiff, I wouldn't like it now.
     
  8. 89fullsiz

    89fullsiz Registered Member

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    I just put 33x12.5's on 10 rims on my stock suspension 89. They actually fit quite nice. Had to bang the inner part of the fender a little but no clearance issues driving around. I don't think I'm going to go wheeling until I get a little lift on it, but at this point I'm thinking zero rates and new shock and calling it good.

    I think the 88-91's may sit up a little higher, I see some older 4x4 that seem really low verses mine stock was pretty high..

    Just my .02's. If you want two inch I'd definatly go suspesion body lifts on stock suspension cars aren't my personal fav...

    Bobby
     
  9. tommy4902

    tommy4902 Registered Member

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    zero rates

    I like the zero rate idea too. Are your current front springs arched up or down? I got a 1970 blazer and the front springs arch upward. I don't know if the zero rates will still work if the spring bows upward.
     

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