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$200 rear disc conversion?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90blzr, Apr 4, 2001.

  1. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Didn't someone make a post claiming that it would be dumb to spen $600 for a rear disc conversion and he/she could do it for 2 or 3 hundered not to long ago. I would like to find out how he did it.
     
  2. DERBINATOR

    DERBINATOR 1/2 ton status

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    IF YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN CALIPER BRACKETS THE REST OF THE PARTS ARE OVER THE COUNTER AND REASONABLY INEXPENSIVE AS LONG AS YOU CAN LIVE WITHOUT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE STYLE CALIPERS. THIS IS WHAT I'M DOING AND I THINK I'LL HAVE AROUND $150 INTO THEM.
     
  3. realsquash

    realsquash 1/2 ton status

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    I probably said it. TSM has a kit for $250ish. Just add calipers and pads. I have it on my 14bolt, and many others are also very happy with it. Stephen at ORD even has a TSM kit (and they are selling them now).

    Squash
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.trailrunners4x4.org/users/realsquash>http://www.trailrunners4x4.org/users/realsquash</A>
     
  4. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    I used front 3/4 ton backing plates. You have to hog out the hole slightly, and space them out about an inch from the flange.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  5. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Has anyone done the one with the e-brake style???????
     
  6. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    I did, I bought junkyard 77 Eldorado Calipers and rebuilt them. If you get reman calipers, there is a BIG core charge. I never did get around to hooking up the cables, though. Just lazy, I guess.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  7. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Pete In your opinion was it worth it? If you dont mind me asking how much did you end up spending total. What all did you have to do with the calipers from the junk yard. Will the factory e-brake cables hook right up? Thanks
     
  8. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry another ? from me. Is the e-brake really necessary and is it worth the extra $$. Derbinator.... How are you making your own brackets I dont even know what they look like, is it easy to do??
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    So what do you use for rotors?

    Rene

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  10. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    I finally got my emergency brake installed last night. Here are my cost for the conversion.
    $299.95 14 bolt rear disc brake kit.
    50.00 8" Stainless Brake Hose from TSM
    50.00 Used Caddy Brake calipers from salvage (Frozen up)
    125.98 Rebuilt Caddy calipers from Oreillys ($3.00 core for each)
    12.00 New Brake Pads
    ------
    543.93 Plus spent some time at the salvage trying to remove the used calipers. I did end up using the emergency brake lever and springs from the salvage calipers.


    [​IMG]
     
  11. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    The rear disks were definitly worth it. They are way more reliable than my 14 bolt drums were, and I still have rear brakes after water crossings. Even with the 39.5's, the brakes work great.

    I run a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in place of the stock one, $40 from Summit. I put in a 3/4 ton master when I did the 3/4 ton 44 front/14 bolt rear, then later swapped it for a 1 ton master when I put in the front 60. I run the stock hydroboost, works great.

    The rotors are 3/4 ton fronts. I had one used one, and found another one in the discard pile at Midas where my buddy used to work. Since the fronts do ~70% of the work, I don't see any problem using slightly under spec rotors. I'm not sure, but I think the Eldo calipers don't open up quite as far as the front truck ones do, if so then the thinner rotors make for an easier fit.

    I don't remember if the factory e-brake cables are long enough, but at the least you'd have to make a simple bracket for them. The Eldo calipers are more complicated internally than normal ones, which makes them harder to rebuild and bleed. When bleeding, I prefer to gravity bleed, and give the calipers a few taps of the hammer to get all the air out. I don't trust my park 100% and intend to someday hook up the e-brake. One alternative would be to use a mico-lock or similar hydraulic lock, just make sure you use one that is manually activated, not electricaly. As for plumbing the calipers, I used the stock Caddy adapters that came on the calipers, the original hard line on the 14 bolt screws right in. I have heard that this is bad, that you must have flexible line there, but the Caddy I took the calipers from was set up this way and seemed to be OK for 20 years before it ended up in the junk yard.

    I think the conversion cost me around $150, mind you this was with a lot of scrounging.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  12. lehtola

    lehtola 1/2 ton status

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    Can you do it with a 10 bolt?

    1990 GMC Jimmy 350/TH700R4/NP241/10 bolts, 4" skyjacker lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG All Terrains on 15x10 AR Baja's, Flowmasters.
     
  13. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    Dunno, never tried it. If you wanted to try, I'd look at 1/2 ton front rotors and caliper brackets.

    Forgot to add, you on the 14 bolt, you have to drill 4 holes in the 3/4 ton front caliper bracket to mount it to the axle's brake flange.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  14. DERBINATOR

    DERBINATOR 1/2 ton status

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    I happen to have a friend who runs a cnc plasma torch and i'm a cnc programmer/machinist so I drew up aprint of the caliper brackets and he cut them. If you go to this site it shows what tsm brackets look like http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/tsm/ Mine are very simialar. I probably would have went with using the original front brackets but I couldn't find a set. I used 3/4 gm front rotors and calipers. I plan on installing them on my truck next week. I have been using my extra 14 bolt ff for test fitting. there is also a space,r that is .812 thick, that goes between the bracket ,which is 3/8 thick, and the flange on the rearend. So far I have spent

    caliper brackets: $0 thanks to a good friend
    rotors: $0 thanks to the same good friend
    gm calipers: $38.00
    brake pads $20.00 or so
    new slider bolts $16.00
    rubber brake lines $43.00
    bolts and washers $8.00

    fairly reasonable in cost but a lot more work then buying the kit.
     
  15. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Check out the link. I think it is the same for a 10 bolt....
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/stainsteel/diskbrakes.html>http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/stainsteel/diskbrakes.html</A>

    Murphy's Laws on Life :
    "It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry."
     

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