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203 to 205 case swap and assembly questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mudstud, Jul 16, 2002.

  1. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    I'm doing the fixed yoke conversion on an 80 205. Got some questions though.
    1. The speedometer cable sticks out the opposite side my 203 does. Is it just a matter of getting an 80 model cable so it'll reach?

    2. This case also has about an 1/8th" of slop on the front output. Is this normal? Chiltons gives specs for end play on everything but the front output shaft. How do you set the end play anyways? Should I worry about it?
    3. What are the rubber plugs for on the top and side of the t-case?
    4. The slip yoke shaft had a groove for a snap ring to hold the large ball bearings in place. The fixed yoke shaft doesn't have this groove. The only way to keep it in there is to let the end yoke (flange) slide against it (the bearing) and let the 150ft/lbs of torq applied at the flange bolt keep it in place. That seems like a lot of side pressure on the bearings so I'm thinkiing this can't be right.
    5. I can't figure out how exactly the shifter attaches to the shift rail or shift bar (the flat bar that goes between the shift rods) Can somebody explain this or have some pics?
    6. Observation- I have 2 cast rear housings where the speedometer cable goes into the case. One has no threads and the other does. Glad I'm using the one that is threaded cuz the lil speedometer shaft won't even slid into the hole in the other one. Weird- Also, the extruded "L" casting thingy on the back of these housings are on opposite sides. The "L" seems to grab the oil from the rear main gear and channel it into the speedometer assembly inside this cast piece. Any insight on why they'd put this in different locations?
     
  2. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    wow that is a lot of questions.

    1- sounds like a plan

    2- that slop sounds a bit much but the ballbearings are real loose on those cases so hard call

    3- ?

    4- the 150ft-lb is applied to the inner race and pins the bearing againnst the shaft so the bearing see's no side loading

    5- couple of washers and a cotter pin it will only go together one way IIRC

    6- I still cant figure out why they ran the speedo cable on the wrong side so no clue as to why

    using google image search I found a ton of good info on 205s but never found a good linkage image.
    full parts list with prices from drivetrain directs site is now on my HDD
     
  3. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    3- the plugs are for access to the shift rail pins. i am not sure what year they changed but previous ones where steel, similar to freeze plugs.

    ARQ.
     
  4. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Chiltons says to just use a punch and hammer to knock the rubber and pin into the case. Guess this is just an added support for the fork since the larger bolt in front of the plug has the ball and spring and stuff. Guess I won't take that apart. I only purchased the gasket/seal kit, not the rebuild kit. I'll have to find the right size pipe to beat the new shift rod seals into place while keeping the rods in tacked.
    So looks like theres no worries on the flange being tightened down to 150# with no snap ring.
    The shifter comes in near the flat rail at an odd angle but I can't figure how they tie together. This IS a 205 shifter. A pic would be great. I'll look up on Google about the 205 info. Thanks guys.
     

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