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205 Input shaft question

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by TheGeneral, Dec 23, 2001.

  1. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Steve or anyone who has converter a TH350 to the TH400 version (female input). My case was bored by Steve, new bearing, but I have two problems. No snap ring for input shaft (the one after the bearing) and I need a shim pack for the idler shaft. I would have been today, but no shops around here have what I need or were open today. I am hoping NAPA has something. Does any one have part numbers for what I need? Do I have to buy a kit? Thanks for time.


    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    That snapring typically comes with our input gears, sounds like you didn't get one?
    It's conveniently the same as the input snapring on a 203, so if you have a spare one of those you could use it.
    Don't know what to tell you for the shims, I think there's some extras in our rebuild kits. Did you put new bearings in it, it should go back the same as it came out. But we may have exchanged the case, not sure on that one.
    We've had to go to a dealer for the shims before.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     
  3. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Steve,
    Thanks for reply, I was able to get a hold of a shim pack and a snapring from a local guy today. All is well, finish it up by tomorrow and order the shafts. Still haven't decided weather to go with the 1310 front u-joint in D60 or up it to 1350. Do you know if the Warn makes there "fuseable hubs?" for the D60 and do they work? Thanks for time once again. Hope you and family have good Holiday season.


    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  4. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Have not heard of a fusible hub for the D60 yet, don't know for sure that they will. We do have some info that different shops are coming out with chromo shafts for the D60 and I don't know how that's going to figure in to the whole mix.
    I don't have good advice on ujoint size for the front shaft, I know a lot of guys like to have that be the fuse point, so the 1310 would be good, I also know guys that crush the needles in a 1310 joint but don't break the D60 so they end up replaceing the 1310 joints all the time. I went with 1350's, I like the durability and interchangeability with the rear shaft and I can accept breaking a D60 joint sometimes. It's not going to happen very often so I'm OK with it.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     
  5. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Steve,
    Further questions, is your front a 1350CV from Tom Woods? What are you running rear at rear diff and what is your shaft, assuming it is a 1350. I talked to Tom today, and going to talk to him again tomorrow about ordering what I need. I had to cycle the suspension and get more measurements. I have a method and system to mount an e=brake off the 205, and Tom said he would machine it to fit between his flange and CV so probably go that way. I am only concerned about the removing of the seals in a 1350 CV and lowering the life of the dam thing. Appreciate any info. By the way, Doubler is in and all is working fine to this point, no movement as no shafts, but it all shifts good and so on. Have the rear crossmember in, but have to get another crossmember from a yard and get a hoop welded in. Yet again, some more exhaust rerouting.


    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I have identical driveshafts front and rear. Pinion connection is a 1350 joint, t-case end is the Tom Woods 1350 high angle CV. We had to do a little extra grinding to get the front to work but it runs to about 34-36" with no problems.
    I haven't driven over about 1200 miles on them so I can't really comment on the durability of the CV in long term use.
    I used flanges from tom on both the front and rear output and I know they'd be easy to adapt in several ways to bolting on a rotor for a brake.
    I'm also a little concerned about the seals but there's not really any other way to get that much angle out of them. I did build a duct tape boot and put some extra grease in it so that might be one answer to the problem. Keeping a boot alive at that angle is tough, but it has to help in keeping that ball clean and slick.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     

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