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205 twin stick shift rail grinding length

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bigblock44k5, Aug 31, 2003.

  1. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm in the process of doing my twin stick, have the shift rail out. I was looking up what length to grind the detents to, and found many different answers. So I wanted to ask people here that have actually done it themselves and seen the results. The last post I saw about this was a week or so ago, and they said they had to go larger than they thought cause they werent getting locked in neutral. The instructions I was using to do this said to go 7/16 farther than they are right now. Please share your measurements and if it worked. I don't want to go to far so that i can mix low and high range. And also, how hard is it to grind? Would it be worth the few bucks and just take it to a machine shop instead sit next to a grinder for an hour? What did you do and what would you do next time. Please help, I only want to do this once and I need to get her back together, I miss driving my baby, just not the same as my car.Thanks in advance.
    Ken
     
  2. moneypit

    moneypit 1/2 ton status

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    Send both of them to ORD. They machined both of mine I think it was like 60 bones? Much better than grinding IMO. That way you know they are right.
     
  3. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I did this mod myself when I rebuilt my 205 and it has worked out great. I spent maybe 2 minutes at the bench grinder and carefully matched it up to the pictures in the following article. Just follow this article to the T and you will be fine. Mark your rail on where it needs to be ground and match it up with the measurements in the pictures.





    [​IMG]
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I've got some info on my web site that covers how I did mine, and the minor problem I had to deal with. It's a little messy, and I need to clean it up a bit, but the info is there...
    Twin Stick

    [Edit] BTW, the ORD route is worth considering. I might do it that way if I had it to do again. He also does a primitive heat treat (heat and quench, no casite or anything) to reduce wear on the ground surfaces along with accurate machining (using real machine tools, not a grinder). The only reason I did it myself is I like to do *everything* possible myself.
     
  5. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Good info on there Russ. I didn't do the double checking like you, but I have not had a single problem from my twin stick setup either. I must have lucked out and ground just enough /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    One of the few times good luck comes my way I guess...
     
  6. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    Russ, I think your site is where I found different answers. So should I do it like the arcticle you have? I saw the side note at the bottom saying neutral didnt fully engage. So what measurements should I actually use? Should I grind to 15/16 like your friend said, or should I grind .9" like you think you should have done. Also, is this revision on the end detent only? Thanks.
    Ken
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Sorry to be so slow responding, I've been burried in work (2 16 hour days last week!), getting the truggy ready for Moab, and building my Son's K5.

    Anyway, when it was all said and done, I had to got to just over 0.9 (maybe 0.92) on the end notch for mine. You would be fine with 0.9375. Other than that, the instructions were pretty much dead on... I need to update that page someday...
     
  8. chebywanna

    chebywanna 1/2 ton status

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    i did mine off of the same article/scanned piece on here, and it seems to work fine.

    i removed both of the rails when i was doing mine for which i slapped my self later becouse you only need to remove one.
    i don't remember the distances how much you need to grind, but measure your indent ball (i think they are called) notches and you go over one or two of those, thats how i did mine anyways.
    test them before you put the balls and springs back in, you can move the rails back and forth by hand very easily.
     

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