Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

3/4 ton Diesel radiator to 1/2 ton Blazer

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ColAdo82K5, Jan 31, 2001.

  1. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2000
    Posts:
    789
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    MO
    Hey,
    There is an 82 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel truck parting out in my local paper. I have an 82 blazer with a small block. I've had cooling problems and my radiator inlet is cracked even after repeated tries to repair it. So, my question is, could i swap in the diesel radiator for better cooling ?(assuming that it physically fits in the engine compartment no problem and that the inlet/oulet/ autotranny cooler lines matchup to some extent) The guy believes it is a four core. In LMC, it gives dimensions for 73-80 gas radiators so they will probably be close to those depths etc. If the lines arn't perfect i can always get rubber lines. Any ideas would be great.
    Blake
     
  2. OFFRDK5

    OFFRDK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2000
    Posts:
    1,881
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Central IL
    I don't think you should have any problems....just line stuff up before bolting things in. Measure....get that tape out and see....You should be able to tell somewhat close. If things line up you should be in good shape...just check the tranny lines and the a/c lines too!!!

    SK-15
    J**P...it's whats for dinner!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://SK-15.coloradok5.com>http://SK-15.coloradok5.com</A>
    Roads? Where we're going, we don't need any roads!
     
  3. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,244
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, CA
    Itsa bolt in. Just make sure you get the top plate that bolts to the core support and supports the radiator at the top; and the get the shroud, as it is longer than whatcha got. Oh, and you'll need a longer top hose, jsut go get one for a diesel Blazer.

    ken
     
  4. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 26, 2000
    Posts:
    521
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    central NC
    I put one in my '87. Bolts right in. I took some knock out punches and made air holes in the sheet metal
    so the radiator would get more flow on the blocked side. For the upper hose, I used a chunk of
    ordinary copper pipe to extend the hose over. The diesel rad has 2 oil coolers in it. I used the engine
    oil cooler by making some custom fittings. Its been a few yrs now and on a trip a while back I removed
    the fan completely cuz it was vibrating. No overheating even w/o fan. System capacity now is 4 gallons.
    Autozone has a good price on a new one GDI branded made in Mexico. NAPA was over $500.

    SteveB
     
  5. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    There's still the question of why is your rig overheating? The factory radiator should be able to cool the engine. Installing a larger radiator will just mask the root problem. Is the current radiator just all plugged up? A new, stock radiator should work just fine.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  6. BigJohnson

    BigJohnson 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2001
    Posts:
    207
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AL
    I ran into a few problems when I swapped my diesel to a sb 350 because I kept the diesel radiator. First, the fan shroud will not cover the fan enough. Mine also hit at the bottom and it broke it so I took it off. This might just be my problem, but watch the clearance at the bottom of the shroud. Second, the hose outlets on the diesel radiator are bigger than the gas ones. The diesel hose is 1.75". After alot of searching I ended up connecting two flex hoses with exhaust pipe to make the two different sizes for the top hose and to get the length I needed which was around 32". I used one flex hose for the bottom. There may be a better way but I thought what I had to do might help. Also, the diesel radiator is huge and with no fan shroud (I know I should get one) it keeps my 350 cool even in the summer.
     
  7. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2000
    Posts:
    789
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    MO
    The reason I want this radiator is becausemy current inlet is cracked and I've tried to fix it but that's not the type of thing i want to start leaking again when i'm far from home. Also, the drain valve is way past being just "rusted". My water pump is new so I thing that this radiator will keep me from running into any problems. Also, cost is a consern, A used one that i can work on a bit is much cheaper than a new one. I love the junk yards and take pride in fixing lots of things for little cash.
    Blake
     
  8. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2000
    Posts:
    789
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    MO
    Steve,
    Can you tell me a bit more about your oil cooler setup ? I see that you run a manual transmission but I'm assuming that by oil coolers, that one could be used for engine oil and auto tranny fluid for another ? the truck i'm getting mine out of is an auto.
    Blake
     
  9. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2000
    Posts:
    270
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    UTAH
    Are there any other radiator alternatives? Would a radiator from a 454 be any different than the one I have in my 350 suburban? My radiator osent seem to bolt on to anything, it just rests on some rubber pads and is held in by the brackets on top that just kind of "hold" it in place. My radiator dosent seem to do a great job so I'd like to get a newer heavier duty rig.
     
  10. baldbandit

    baldbandit 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2000
    Posts:
    282
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Marshall TX
    Steve

    do you mean that you used the radiator oil cooler for a tranny cooler? I am in the process of swapping my diesel over to gas and would like use the oil cooler on my small block but haven't figured out how. On the diesel there are two threaded holes just above the oil filter that the oil cooler lines tie into, but of course these holes aren't on the small block. Does anybody know how to plumb the oil cooler in to the sbc?

    thanks
    baldbandit
     
  11. KENBARBOUR

    KENBARBOUR Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2001
    Posts:
    54
    Likes Received:
    0
    I converted from a regular 3 row to a 4 row. the only thing i had to change was the rubber pads on the top and bottom of the radiator. I never did figure out what truck had the 4 row
    rubbers but my local GM dealer had them in stock. I got the radiator from a radiator shop. Just measure yours and get one with more rows. It works great.
     
  12. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2001
    Posts:
    1,346
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Me thinks you could use a factory oil cooler adapter to hook a sbc to the diesel radiator. Our '89 Sub has a factory oil cooler, the adapter sandwiches between the block and the oil filter. You would probably have to adapt the fittings, I doubt they are the same but I never checked. I was lazy and just plugged the oil cooler lines from my original diesel radiator.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), Dana 60/14 bolt, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  13. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    Shum1, keep in mind that your radiator is 10 years old. It's probably full of crud that's limiting its ability to cool. If the radiator is in otherwise good shape, a radiator shop can rod out the tubes and then soak it in their cleaning tank to remove all the stuff that's calcified in there over the last 10 years. It will work like a new one when you get it back. I pulled mine out myself and took it into the shop. A couple hours and $100 later I had a radiator that worked and looked great.

    ColAdo82K5, I had a '77 K5 that kept cracking where the upper fitting was soldered to the tank. A radiator shop wrapped a fat piece of copper wire (1/8 to 3/16's thick) so that it fit around the tube and flush against the tank, then soldered the whole thing together. It never cracked again in the 3 years I kept the truck after that. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  14. I just did a 4 core swap and here is the info

    I just did a 4 core swap into my 88 Burb a couple of months ago. The radiator I got was new and I bought it from AutoZone for $175.00 Part No. # 433730 (For an Automatic tranny) and then I went to the GM dealer and got the upper panel/bracket to hold it in along with the four rubber mounts too. The upper panel was Part No. # 14018600 and the four pad/mounts were Part No. # 6264100. It went in like it was meant to be there originally. The only thing the didn't bolt up was the fan shroud, I guess I could have bought the one for that particular truck---88 model 3/4 ton Burb 4x4 with a 7.4 engine I think was what I told them, but I opted to cut an inch or so off of the front of mine and bolt it up. I have a 3" body lift so I haven't had a bottom for a long time anyway. This summer I will build me a custom shroud I think. The thing cools fine without a shroud though. It cost me around 200 bucks for this swap, good luck and I hope this helps. The radiator has a lifetime warranty and we all know that is a BIG plus. I looked into diesel radiators too and they are actually too wide by 6 to 8 inches and requires changing the radiator support to do it the right way. That would suck !! There was a guy on CK5 that did it and cut away part of the support---NO THANKS I don't want scabbed in parts. Good Luck, I just wanted to drop you a line to see if I could Help.


    [​IMG]<font color=red>BigBurb[​IMG]
    <font color=purple>IF YOU'RE SCARED, SAY YOU'RE SCARED !!
     
  15. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 26, 2000
    Posts:
    521
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    central NC
    Blake, BaldBandit and BigBurb,
    I bought new diesel shroud, bottom rubber, and top hold-downs from GM. It was a bolt-in. The only sheetmetal work I did was 4-4" diameter holes to allow more cooling. Did w/electricians punch.
    The diesel rad has 2 coolers, for trans and eng. I use the GM eng oil cooler adaptor (scws in to block).

    I use made-up hydrauic hoses (NAPA) from eng to rad. Std NPT at eng end w/hyd swivel ends.

    At rad end, I made custom 90deg fittings which use O rings to seal at the
    rad, and combine NPT brass female to 3400x4 Weatherhead 90deg steel elbow (from Napa).
    I made sure that there was no stress on the rad
    sheet metal from hose weight and deflection caused by rough roads.

    On the downside, due to wide radiator, you must relocate aux
    battery and move evap canister just a bit.

    Photos available...email me.




    SteveB
     

Share This Page