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3.73 ok? i searched.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 83_chevy_blazer, Dec 7, 2003.

  1. 83_chevy_blazer

    83_chevy_blazer Registered Member

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    i have 35's a th350 and 350 engine. the blazer is an 83 and the bach has a 12 bolt with 2.76, the front has a dana 44 with 3.08 ratio. i want to change ratios, the 3.73 combo would be probally arround $800. $450 for rear, new carrier, and gears, and install. the front would probally be like 350 because it dosn't need a new carrier. 4.11 is will require a new carrier dor the dana 44. making it that much more expensive, not to mention the install cost. will 3.73 be a good daily driver aswell as mudder, hill climber. i dont do any rock crawling and am in so. cal. is there any way to do this cheaper?
     
  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    with 35's i would go with 4:56's you wont need a new carrier because you can get the thick gears. you will be much happier with 4:56's /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. pismorat

    pismorat 1/2 ton status

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    I think that would be fine, I run 33's with 3.73s with my 406, TH350, and 203. I ran my buddies 35" Baja Claws for a month and was very surprised how it did, I figured it would be sluggish off the line, but it wasn't. I am planning on getting 35's soon and running them with the set up I have now. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  4. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The cheapest way to do it would be a matched set of axles with the ratio you want and just swap the axles in instead of paying to swap gears....maybe upgrade to 3/4 ton while you are at it kill two birds with one stone /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I would definantly go at LEAST 4.10's preferably 4.56 or 4.88.
     
  6. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    i have 35's a th350 and 350 engine. the blazer is an 83 and the bach has a 12 bolt with 2.76, the front has a dana 44 with 3.08 ratio. i want to change ratios, the 3.73 combo would be probally arround $800. $450 for rear, new carrier, and gears, and install. the front would probally be like 350 because it dosn't need a new carrier. 4.11 is will require a new carrier dor the dana 44. making it that much more expensive, not to mention the install cost. will 3.73 be a good daily driver aswell as mudder, hill climber. i dont do any rock crawling and am in so. cal. is there any way to do this cheaper?

    [/ QUOTE ] Okay, for the money you're talking, I think you'd be much futher ahead to get yourself a set of 3/4 ton axles from the same truck (Matching gears). Finding a set with 3;73, 4;10, or even 4;56 shouldn't be that hard. Just something to think about befor you go to the expence of regearing.
     
  7. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    well, marv ran 35's and 3.73 on the old green thing.(RIP Green thing)
    i rode in it a couple times. he had a vortec 350 in it and a th350 with a doubler. i didnt notice any lag problems. im sure it got decent mileage as well.

    you can get thick gears as mentioned before. also as mentioned before it would be a bit cheaper if you swap axles. you may find a junk yard that is willing to trade plus a bit of cash for a set of matched axles. may it be 1/2 or 3/4 ton. the only problem with going to 3/4 ton is you have to get new rims and maybe new tires. thats a cost factor as well.
    Grant
     
  8. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    With an automatic you do not need to run as low a gear as you would on a manual transmission. The torque converter adds gearing at initial takeoff that tapers off as rpm increases. Now for my OPINION, if you kept the th350 trans I would run 4.11 gears to go with your tires and if you added and overdrive into the mix you would gain a lower first gear and improve your highway cruising. I will be going to lower gears myself next year sometime ( just bought a house no gears AGAIN this year, DARN!!).
     
  9. 83_chevy_blazer

    83_chevy_blazer Registered Member

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    i called a couple yards and they want $500 with a core for a 14 bolt with 4.11s and new front would probally be more. where do i get the thick gears?
     
  10. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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  11. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    i called a couple yards and they want $500 with a core for a 14 bolt with 4.11s and new front would probally be more. where do i get the thick gears?

    [/ QUOTE ] That's high priced. 14 bolt FF rear axles go for $100.00 to $300.00 around here. I bought both axles from a 78 3/4 ton truck for $250.00 , so don't give up, deals are out there. You might want to post a wanted add on local rancher/farmer website.
     
  12. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    i called a couple yards and they want $500 with a core for a 14 bolt with 4.11s and new front would probally be more. where do i get the thick gears?

    [/ QUOTE ] That's high priced. 14 bolt FF rear axles go for $100.00 to $300.00 around here. I bought both axles from a 78 3/4 ton truck for $250.00 , so don't give up, deals are out there. You might want to post a wanted add on local rancher/farmer website.

    [/ QUOTE ]


    I bought my 14BFF and 8-lug D44 for $150. The rest of the truck was still attached to it. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    $500 for a core 14BFF is way too expensive.
    /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  13. Fry

    Fry 1/2 ton status

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    Junkyard will be more than if you buy them of someguy out of a paper. I got mine for $100 and the front for free (trade).
     
  14. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Here in AZ the 14 bolts or anything 8 lug carries a high price.
    The yards snatch em up quick, and the pull-a-parts are still around 200 if they have one left within 2 days of getting an 8 lug truck.
     
  15. 83_chevy_blazer

    83_chevy_blazer Registered Member

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    yeah the junk yards here suck. im just wondering right now with the 2.76 ratio i cant get past 65 and have some bad shaking at that speed. with 4.11 would i even be able to get up to 60 mph with a th350 35 inch tires and a carbed 350? would the vibrations get worse with the 4.11 sonce the driveshaft and everything else is going faster? i was thinking of testing the higher rpm = more shaking with jack stands and spinning the rear wheels in the air untill the speedometer read maybe 85 mph. this would show me if the vibrations are coming from the rpm's or just the front end and freeway speed. negatives of this test would be ruining the drivetrain because of zero resistance under power (is this possible)? or a Ferris Buler where my car falls off the jacks and flys out a window.
     
  16. 83_chevy_blazer

    83_chevy_blazer Registered Member

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    any ideas on this test or any other test to tell where the shaking is coming from? i talked to the mechanic who was going to do the gear install and he wants 1100 for 4.11 and new bearings through the axles. i dont think i am going to go to 14 bolt dana 60 because of the new wheels and ground clearance issure. how hard is it to do the gear install and new bearings myself.
     

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