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3 inch Blazer lift

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by FL84K5, Oct 19, 2001.

  1. FL84K5

    FL84K5 1/2 ton status

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    I am looking at getting a SkyJacker 2.5 inch lift for my 84 K5. They have two 2.5 inch lifts, one with all new springs and one with new front springs and blocks in the back. Would blocks be ok in the rear for this size lift? I am going to run 33 inch tires. Would any steering modifications need to be done with this lift? Would the fenders need to be trimmed? Thanks

    There's no Bud in my alcohol occifer!
     
  2. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    Personally, I wouldnt run blocks of any size. No, you shouldnt need any steering mods for a 2.5" lift.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html>http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html</a>
     
  3. 89k5blazr

    89k5blazr Registered Member

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    I just put in a 2" suspension lift to fit 33" BFG Mud T's I got new springs for the front and rear blocks. Havent had a problem yet (knock on wood). Just gotta remember to check the u-bolts and tighten them down once and while. As for steering mod's, you just have to do some minor adjustments and check the allignment.

    1989 K5 350 ci TBI
     
  4. Jersey

    Jersey 1/2 ton status

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    I'm running 33 muds without a lift with no rubbling but....i haven't REALLY flexed her yet. Not sure what would happen. You should have no problem and no cutting to do with a 2 1/2" and 33's. I would go all springs if i had the choice and extra $. Just my 2c. Good luck.

    - Jersey

    '91K5 - 350, 700R4, NP241, FlowMasters, 33's
    <a target="_blank" href=http://pages.zdnet.com/len1313/blazer>[/b]PICS[/b]</a>
     
  5. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Here are your options. All springs, front springs and 2.5 " shackle flip from ORD, front springs and rear add a leaf. I have the front springs and rear add a leaf. I like it, but the rear sags a little. I am going to put in a ORD 1" zero rate add a leaf to even it out. Do NOT use blocks. They suck.

    No trimming and no steering mods necessary. You should probably get longer front brake lines if you offroad.

    My Chevy isn't broken, its just out of gas.<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Hossbaby50 on 10/20/01 10:46 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  6. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Havent seen you in a while, Welcome back!

    If ya can't stop.......Smile as you go under! [​IMG]
     
  7. 85GMCJimmy

    85GMCJimmy Registered Member

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    What width wheels is everyone using for 33x12.50s with their 2.5 inch lift?
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Blocks suck, huh? Can you explain to me my?

    I personally refuse to use any kind of lift spring in the back. No reason to pay more money for a rougher ride when blocks or shackle flips can give you what you need for less $$ and with a better ride.

    I personally think a 2.5" lift is a waste of both time and money. Want to know why? I had one once. It was on my truck for only a few months.

    And some people claim that 33s will rub even with a 4" lift if flexed all the way.

    If I were you and I didn't do any major off roading, I'd run 33s on the stock height before I'd waste money on a 2.5" lift. I'd go at least 4" if you're going to go through all the work. No matter how big you go, you'll always want more anyway.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  9. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I got 4" kit with rear blocks. Nothing bad has ever happened, and I've been wheeling it for a couple years.



    Still Poundin' "pavment" after all these years!!! [​IMG]
     
  10. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Rides pretty good too.

    Still Poundin' "pavment" after all these years!!! [​IMG]
     
  11. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    You ever try pulling a hard and fast corner with a 4" lift and 33"s, NOT FUN! Just because you didn't like 2.5" lift doesn't mean that it is some how a waste for everyone.

    (not tryin to be an a$$hole or nothing to ya, just that everybody has differnet opnions [​IMG])

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76</a>
     
  12. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Well, not to offend YOU or anything, but why are you driving like a tough truck racer?
    Not on the street I hope. Pulling that kind of stuff in a lifted 4wd is just plain dangerous and irresponsible.

    Still Poundin' "pavment" after all these years!!! [​IMG]
     
  13. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    HAHA, me? Oh, man I get made fun of all the time by my friends for driving like an old man. There not really hard corners but you know that feeling where the vehicle feels funny. I'm sure it would take quite a bit more pushing to get it to go over. I meant like one of those freak deals when you have swerve to miss something. I've had times when kids go running out into the street and had to slam on the brakes. No swerving, but when drive in town 99%, anything's possible.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76</a>
     
  14. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    Nothing wrong with small lifts if thats what you want. A lot of lift makes it hard to get in, doesn't ride as good, and just isn't as practical for daily use. Big lifts have their place as do small ones.

    I have a 4" and 33x12.5 tires on 15x10" wheels w/ no swaybar. They would hit the back edge of the fender when flexed up and slightly turning. Took a little metal off and they clear ok now. Probably could get them to hit if I really tried. Basically, if you just drive on the street and play in mud, you could probably get away without trimming them, but if you want to flex it up you will need to trim some metal. I have been running 3.5" blocks in the back for over a year now and haven't had one problem. A shackle flip is the best option, but the blocks are far more economical, and they work fine for me.

    Brian
     
  15. 76chevy

    76chevy 1/2 ton status

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    I would personally go with the Tuff Country 3" lift with the 4" shackle flip in the rear. The one inch in back will offset the saggy back. And as long ans you don't get disconnects or any extreme wheeling you shouldn't have to lengthen you brake lines either. The back one would require the extension that comes with the lift, but it is easy to change.

    If you ever get longer front shackles, you may possibly want to go with a new steering arm and longer brake lines.

    The cutting depends on your vehicle. Some have to cut with a2.5 others don't. It will depend on rim with and flex. The more you flex the more chance to rub.

    Alot of pleople run 8 " rims with the 33 12.5's because they have them and it protects the rim more. That is what I do, but I like the look os the 10" rims since they stick out more.

    Of course, that may just be the rim offset that does that.


    <font color=red>Spirit of 76</font color=red>
     
  16. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I just bought and installed a 2'' lift from rough country.....I got all 4 springs and shocks with bushings and hardware for a good price....Less tha $500 with Fed Ex shipping. Rides awesome...talk to Jeff he will deal with you....
     
  17. eastk5

    eastk5 Registered Member

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    I have a Ranco 2.5 lift w/ 33x12.50 ssr's. you shouldn't make contact with sheetmetal. as for as steering corrections everyone says you dont, but i am planning on a new steering arm. I am having some bump steer effects since adding the lift.
     
  18. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    If theres anyting you want to check out, or have any questions I dont live far from you in Dade City.

    If ya can't stop.......Smile as you go under! [​IMG]
     

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