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3 inch body lift

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by tecton, Apr 18, 2003.

  1. tecton

    tecton 1/2 ton status

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    ok
    there is a 3 inch body lift in the local trader paper for 100$....better yet its a guy that lives up the road from me.

    What should i ask for if i talk to him? What will i need other than the pucks nuts bolts washers and all that?

    Also...im running 33inch tires now...with this lift...would i be able to use 35's instead?

    And finally...what are the downfalls of a body lift?
     
  2. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    You should ask him why he wants $100...You can buy a brand new one from www.4wheelparts.com for $69.
     
  3. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    I'd say, if you don't rub now, you'd be able to fit 35's with the body lift.
     
  4. tecton

    tecton 1/2 ton status

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    thats a good q

    wait...i think 100$ is for the 6" suspension lift he has...not the body lift...ill have to call him and ask him about that
     
  5. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    100 for 6 " lift ?

    now youre talkin ! hope you score ! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
    i drool if so.. :P
     
  6. tecton

    tecton 1/2 ton status

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    just springs and blocks....no shocks or anything
     
  7. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 3" bodylift on my '87, installed by the first owner.
    Drawbacks: Lifting the body changes the linkage angles and lengths for the transmission shifter, transfer case shifter, and the steering shaft. I don't know if extra parts were required for the linkages (longer link rods, etc.) or if there's enough adjustment range in the stock linkages to accomodate. On mine, the gear indicator on the steering column doesn't line up with what gear I've selected with the shifter (in Neutral, the pointer is between N and D, slightly more towards D), and the T-case shifter detents don't correspond with actual positions. To run in 4Hi, I've got to "search" for the detent in the case, as opposed to the stops in the shifter. I couldn't care less about the trans shifter position, but the T-case shifter position bug has popped me out of 4Hi a couple times while offroad. Bugs the hell out of me...
     
  8. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    wonder how or why body lift would affect 4hi postion, what case you got ? 4hi should be second down from top as far as i know, i would think a problem would be more with 4 lo or 2 hi postion with as body lift

    *trying to learn here /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  9. aksidentproan

    aksidentproan 1/2 ton status

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    I did a 2" body lift on my truck and it wouldn't go into 4low because it's all the way forward and it wouldnt go into 4high because it's all the way back. The stick was hitting the hole in the floor so a few wacks of a hammer on the hole fixed the problem.

    Evan
     
  10. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    ok then must not be a 208 then in that case if 4 lo is forward all the way, hmm.. im used to 208's currently thats whats in the 82 K-10 shorty,


    is this in the 70 in your sig ?

    i figure if i hopefulyl end up with the 83 K20 and get body lift on it, im gonna cut floor tunnel out around handle to allow it to move as far as it needs to go fore and aft to make sure it is not blocked at all, then i can worry about boot and stuff later, ill do whatever needs to be done to let trans case shift all way into ranges, its 465 208 truck
     
  11. BigBlazer90

    BigBlazer90 Registered Member

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    Well i would just save my money and buy a suspension lift there is just to much to deal with when you have a body lift.I have a 6inch suspension on my blazer and running 35's easy i can probably run bigger.
     
  12. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    It's up to you...but I can say my 3" body lift has caused me no problems. The tranny selector problem can be solved with a 1/2" wrench withe the tranny in park, loosen the linkage clamp and slide it till it shows right. You just have to adjust your linkage, not exactly time consuming. It's up to you what you want to do, but it's not as much trouble as it's thought to be...
     
  13. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    One other issue with a body lift is what to do about the radiator fan and shroud. The fan stays down with the motor, and the shroud goes up with the body. You can custom fab a new shroud, make drop brackets for the shroud, or else pull both of 'em and install an electric fan.

    I got a 3" body lift on my burb. I welded a 3" piece into the tranny linkage rod, but I didn't have to do that for the t-case linkage rod because I put a 2wd body on my chasis and the 2wd center humps in the floor are about 3" shorter than in a 4wd. Gear and t-case indicators all work perfectly too.

    Oh, yeah, one other thing. DOn't forget about those ugly gaps between the bumpers and and the body. They're a pain.
     
  14. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I had a 4" suspension lift on my 90 Bronco. I then added a 3" body lift. It was a pain in the butt dealing with moving all kinds of stuff in the engine compartment as well as welding in a piece to the shifter rod and my TC lever was off. First I cut the plastic frame but that didn't fix it enough. I then ended up taking the lever off, heating it with a torch , and pounding out some of the curve to fix it hitting the floorboards. But I had hashed my plastic frame around the TC lever so I had to buy a new one. I used these things called lift lips to hide the gap between the frame and body. Some rigs have drop brackets for the radiator. The recommended fix for the Bronco was cutting a section out of the fan shroud to accomodate the fan blades being lower. I wasn't thrilled with that but it didn't seem to effect the cooling any. With an earlier rig, you wouldn't have as many hoses, etc. But, I wouldn't do it again. I didn't like the way that it felt on the road, or wheeling. Personal preference though. With my Blazer, I will stick strictly with suspension lift. My recommendation is still to spend the bucks on the suspension, and just stay with a stock height body mount.
     
  15. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

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    I like the idea of the extra up-travel that a body lift gives. Four inch spring lift moves the body away from the tires alright-but when you stuff the tire, you still either hit the fenders or you limit the up-travel with jounce bumpers.
    In other words, let say you have 33s on a stock K5. You know as well as me that if you have no lift, your tires will rub the fenders unless you have cut them. Lets say you haven't cut them for simplicity sake. Alright, you have grown tired of the 33s hitting the tires when you flex the suspension and the wheels are turned so yo buy a 2 inch suspension lift. You go out wheelin for the first time and "Dernit, you still rub the tires when flexing up good!". Why? Cause the 2 inches of lift only raised the static height of the body. If you flex good, the tires will still hit the fenders unless you do something to limit the up-travel. That in turn, takes away "flex" which is what everyone is looking for {except maybe mudders}.

    Now lets say we install a 2 inch body lift. This moves the body 2 inches away from the tires no matter how well the springs flex-you will always have that extra 2 inches of up-travel in your pocket. Now you no longer hit the tires-whooo hoooo! And the body lift cost 70 bucks vs 300 bucks for a set of front springs. That's enough for one beadlock!! Well that's how I have to buget things anyway! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    There are drawbacks. A three inch does look bad-big whoop. Get a 2 inch, most folks don't even notice it if you raise the bumpers. They are {most of the time} more work to install, once again-big whoop. It will take a day extra, barring any visits from Murphy. Lastly the extra leverage might crack the body where the pucks are. My CJ never cracked and I wheeled it pretty hard for about 3 years and 30K miles after I did the body lift. Lastly, you are limited to how much lift you can achieve. Best solution is a combination of the two. Well, maybe three combinations-body lift, suspension lift and a sawzall!

    In addition to the extra up-travel, there is less weight raised. It ain't much but it does help in the tippy/butt-pucker situations. JM2Cs
     

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