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300 ft/lbs 350 TBI Can you do it?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by AudioMaster, Apr 29, 2005.

  1. AudioMaster

    AudioMaster Registered Member

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    I have a 1987 K5 Jimmy with a basically stock (160k miles, rebuilt @ 130k no mods stock cam, etc, etc) only has headers and a k&n filter. I want it to make 300 ft/lbs of torque at a useable RPM range. Can it be done?

    Tell me exactly what I need to do everything from fuel delivery upgrades to engine upgrades. Please be specific. Oh and I'm on a budget. ;)
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    You're done.

    Stock the TBI 350 made 210 hp and 300 lb/ft of torque.

    Rene
     
  3. AudioMaster

    AudioMaster Registered Member

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    Sorry, I forgot three important words: At the wheels.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'd probably go with some Vortech heads and maybe some 1.6:1 roller rockers. I think that would get you close...assuming a 20% loss through the drivetrain is all you'd need to overcome.

    Better ignition wouldn't hurt either.

    Rene
     
  5. AudioMaster

    AudioMaster Registered Member

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    What ignition do you reccomend? A multi-spark like an MSD 6AL?
     
  6. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    Rene, Rene, Rene... V-O-R-T-E-C (the "h" is both silent and invisible :D )

    Rene is on the right track. Vortec heads are great for making torque. in order to put them on a TBI engine you'll need....

    Intake PN: 12496821 $309.50
    EGR adapter pn: E2899 $22.95
    EGR Supply tube PN: 10220275 $54.95
    *prices and part numbers from Scoggin-Dickey

    along with a drivers side Vortec exhaust manifold.

    might look into CFM Technologies for upgrade parts for the throttle body itself. ignition and exhaust could net you some fairly easy gains.
     
  7. jim burke

    jim burke Registered Member

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    I always thought the GM HEI was pretty decent. I've got an MSD distibutor (Pro Billet) that sells for about $300 from Summit Racing. The module inside it is a stock GM part w/ the GM logo on it :laugh: . It seems the stock GM parts (at least one of them) are good enough for MSD.

    Are you talking about an MSD box (6A whatever) to get the power gain?
     
  8. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    Nobody said anything about a cam?

    comp cams 4x4 are about as good as it gets for usable torque gains....with a cam that is.

    Alot of stuff you can do to make more power.... manifold, fuel pump, regulator, bigger tbi.....

    here is my baby..... tbi and all for 3200 bucks.

    http://members.cardomain.com/dirtwarrior17

    estimated numbers are 330-350 hp and 400 ft lbs just to give you an idea of the direction you want to go.... not saying build my motor.

    good luck
     
  9. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    dirtwarrior, you're also the one who keeps posting about how you cant get it running right. guys, be cautious of his input. the bigger TBI is great for top end, but low CFM is where its at for torque and throttle response.
     
  10. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    300 lbs at the wheels should be possible without having to swap in a more aggressive cam IMO. A more agressive cam will possibly make more torque, but it'll also come in later and peak higher...

    Jeremy...bite me :D

    Rene
     
  11. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    beater your way off.... its not running right because of a manifold not sealing up right.... has nothing to do with bigger tbi. It runs awesome when its put together. My dad didn't want to change intake gaskets during the original swap and thats why i am now dealing with all this manifold bs. Also it has more response than any motor i've seen in a long time... your statement about cfm depends on what motor and combo your running.

    I just can't figure out how you connect a giant vacuum leak to the wrong tbi/setup :confused: :dunno: :doah: :what: :thinking: :shame: :rotfl:

    just wondering... what do you mean be cautious of my input? are you saying don't go with a 4x4 cam?


    by the way your input about grease on the valves could have ended up costing me serious money and alot of life off my motor if i had listened to it.

    Rene: I was suggesting something like the comp cams 600-4600 rpm cam... wouldn't that give you better low rpm torque at a closer peak?
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2005
  12. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Small cam, small diameter full length headers, a two hole throttle body spacer, and 9C1 (65lb/hr) injectors should get you there.
     
  13. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    never said it did have anything to do with your problems. if you know what the problem is, spend the $8 and fix it already, its not THAT hard. as for the cfm, no it doesnt matter what you've got under the TBI, a smaller TBI (or carb for that matter will ALWAYS give you better low end torque and throttle response, period.

    there's no reason for loctite on the valves, or anywhere on the head for that matter. furthermore, there's no reason for you to bring this to this thread.

    BTW, Dirtwarrior... NOT EVERY THREAD IS ABOUT YOU AND YOUR POO-POO LOOKING TRUCK! :mad: :mad: :mad:
     
  14. originalspanksta

    originalspanksta 1/2 ton status

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    whoa...lets all take a deep breath....
     
  15. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    your the one that posted about my sh$t. not me. i posted my motor because its in the direction hes going to end up powerwise.

    I am not going to junk up this thread anymore by responding to that hotheaded bs...
     
  16. rugger03

    rugger03 1/2 ton status

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    you just did?... :confused:

    300lbs at the rear isn't all that hard. The hard part is figuring out which way you are going to do it. Cam swap, heads, bigger TBI, increased ratio rocker arms, ect.

    You really need to decide how far your willing to tear into it and what your willing to spend. From a performance stand point i personally think adding all these after market parts on a engine with some miles and questionable specs isn't very cost effective way to add power. Start adding up gasket kits, heads, rocker arms, intakes and your time. Your not to far away from a drop in engine, with known numbers and a warrenty to boot. Not trying to discourage you, but IMO better to do it at once than piece by piece.

    Cheers,
    rugger
     
  17. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    a good set of heads is the same price as a "mild-hot" longblock 350 if your smart about it.

    that way you could start with higher comp, cam if you want one, better heads than stock and go from there for about the same price as building up your used stock motor...

    so from what i'm hearing 4x4 comp cams don't work or what?
     
  18. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The Vortec head swap puts you in the hole a minimum of $800 if you go *new*.

    If I'm not mistaken, some Dart heads or the like are running around that price, and come "better" right off the bat.

    Only thing you lose with the aftermarket heads is the better "fastburn" chamber. I'm not aware of anyone (short of GM) making non-Vortec heads that have the good chamber, which is important.
     
  19. Supergas

    Supergas 1/2 ton status

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    4WD Engine...

    :grin: I am in the process of putting together a new engine for my Blazer and it is going to be as simple as possible... From my 20+ years of building small blocks for my own stuff, I have come up with this combinatiom..

    I have a freshly bored block (.030 over) & a good crank, rods, pistons etc... so I am going to be content with a 355. ( I ran a 355 in NHRA super street for 10 years so I know what kind of all out performance can be had)

    With that said, I decided NOT to use the Vortec heads as the intake manifold is $325.. instead I am going to use the S/R Torquer Heads from World products or Dart Iron Eagle Heads with a 72cc chamber & flat top pistons. This will give me a compression ratio low enough to use 87 octane gas.... Plus I can use the stock intake manifold... difference in cost:
    Vortec Heads: $ 520.00
    Manifold $ 325.00
    EGR stuff $ 50.00

    S/R Torquer Heads or Dart Iron Eagle $ 710.00 complete....

    I have not decided which cam to use yet, but it will be a hydraulic roller cam for bottom end. I don't really care what HP I end up with, I am looking for somewhere around 400 lb/ft of torque to come on as close to idle as possible.

    I am also balancing the engine, not because I have to, just old habits & I am convinced that they do run better balanced...

    I will still use the TBI, but I am going to flow match the injectors & install a spacer.. I may have to have the prom redone, but it will be real close...

    This should produce around 300+ HP & 410 lb/ft Torque
    All for under $2500 including the machine shop work...

    Hope this helps...

    Supergas
     
  20. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    the s/r torquers are the way to go...

    Darts have 200cc intake runners which isn't good for torque at low rpm. the s/r torquers have either 170 or 180cc and will make awesome torque at a good price.
     

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