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305 timing minus tab & light??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by AussieK5, Nov 14, 2001.

  1. AussieK5

    AussieK5 1/2 ton status

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    Amongst a few other things I did to the truck this week, I swapped in HEI[​IMG]
    The damn timing cover doesn't have a tab on the timing cover and my t/light is becoming somewhat erra raa rraa ttt tic. (Besides acuating randomly, its showing my timing mark at about the 9 to 10 o'clock position [​IMG]). Anybody know how to accurately tune timing minus these two items?

    P.S. Esteban if you read this, thanks for the info the other day, I understand now what you were saying about the disc/hub balance problem.
    P.P.S. I went out...pulled the pads and ground'em flat. Unfortunately the only guarantee that comes from the place I can get chev pads is "yep, there the ones!"
     
  2. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    On my 305, I (a) can't get to the timining marker to clean all the rust and (b) can't break the bolt on the distributor clamp loose. So, my answer is to put in a new engine [​IMG]!!

    You could try the "feel" method. Loosen your clamp and disconnect any advance. Rotate the distributor ever so slightly with the engine running. Listen closely to the RPMs. Your ear will pick up on the optimal position. This isn't an art or probably even too terribly accurate, but it is a way to give it a whirl.

    P.S. I would mark your distributor shaft and manifold so that if you get it all out of whack, you can at least get it back to where it was!

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  3. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Mark the side of the distributor (not the cap) with a marks-a-lot or marker where the number one (farthest forward on left hand side facing forward) spark plug wire goes (this will be used to set the rotor). Take off the distributor cap, pull the driver's side valve cover and take out the number 1 spark plug. Rotate the engine by hand until the intake valve closes (by looking at rocker arm with valve cover off). Place a narrow but long object (metal is better, but DON'T DROP IT IN THE MOTOR) into the spark plug hole (Or use a piston stop). As the piston comes up you can feel the "rod" move as well, when it stops moving you are at top dead center (i.e. 0 degrees). You may have to rotate the engine back and forth a little to get it exact. When you have it at TDC rotate the distributor until the rotor points at the mark you made earlier on the distributor housing (motor is now statically timed at zero degrees) and lock down the distributor (without rotating it). Replace the cap with the rotor still pointing at the number one plug wire terminal. If you can see the zero mark on the harmonic balancer, make a corresponding mark (thin is better, but wide enough you can see it). This will be used for reference. If there is no mark on the balancer, pick an easy spot on it to see and make a mark on it and something nearby that you can line up by sight. Most stock engines like to run at 12 degrees static advance (+/-) so you can rotate the distributor SLIGHTLY counter-clockwise to achieve some advance. Even if your light works intermittently you should be able to use it to get a reading. Replace the plug/wire and valve cover. Start her up and listen to her run. Rotate both ways until you get the highest possible idle and back it off (clockwise) a hair. This should be a good initial setting. If it is hard to start or pings under acceleration, you need to back it off (clockwise) a little more.

    I believe this is how to do it, but this is strickly from memory, so if anybody has anything to add or change please feel free.
    Hope this helps.

    See my rig at <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot> click here </a>
     
  4. AussieK5

    AussieK5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the help guys, thats how I set it up initially. I was hoping to get it spot on prior to a 1000km trip today to save me the possibilty of having to stuff about with timing during the trip. I did pretty much the way you do Leadfoot except I stick my finger in the plug hole, bump the engine over (remote or helper) and feel for the compression stroke and go from there. tx85gmcguy, I hear ya........one rollercammed, injected 350 will replacing that weezee 305 in the new year.
     

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