Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

33vs35

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Derf00, Jul 26, 2000.

  1. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2000
    Posts:
    1,683
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Abilene, TX
    I recently purchased a '90 Jimmy for my son. We have started doing minor repairs and upgrades. Our next project is a lift and tires and wheels. We are planning on a ProComp 4" lift and are in a small dispute about whether to put on 33" or 35" MT. The Jimmy is fully loaded 350, 3.73 gear ratio, quad shocks, trans-oil cooler. I prefer the 33's because of gear ratio and wear and tear on the transmission. My son's reason for the 35's is "attitude," they just look alot better, and who cares how it drives.
    Any thoughts from those of you who have been there and done that?
     
  2. BLzr4x4ngkid

    BLzr4x4ngkid 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2000
    Posts:
    703
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wichita, KS
    I've got a Pro Comp 6" with 35" Swamper SX's and love them. Your son is right about the 35's. They look meaner and fill up the fender, especially with a 4" lift. The 3.73 gears would work fine for 35's. I might be wrong about that, so see what others have to say. I know that with the 35's you'll have some fender rub with articulation. I have fender rub with a 6" lift. The 33's work great with a 4" lift. Just look at the pro's and con of each tire size. You can always get 35's later if you wanted, or vis versa. Good luck on what you choose.

    Alex
    [​IMG]What me get stuck? NEVER!![​IMG]
     
  3. chevy4x4

    chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2000
    Posts:
    1,454
    Likes Received:
    0
    Before you lift you should re enforoce the area around the steering box because blazer will crack there when lifted. Having said that I think 35s definatly look better. But there will be some contact with the fenders. If you mind this, you should trimm them a bit. 3.73s are kind of high for 35s but if the blazer doesn't see much off roading you should be able to get away with them. The 1990 blazer you have has 10bolt axles. If you are going to do any fourwheeling, you should swap them out for stronger ones. If you decide to go with 33s there shouldn't be any contact with the fenders. With 35s the mileage will suffer a bit cause of the added weight. I would personaly go with the 35s.

    <font color=red>CHECK OUT MY SITE</font color=red>
    http://blazer-jimmy.coloradok5.com
     
  4. Overdrive

    Overdrive Registered Member

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2000
    Posts:
    93
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    My current 77' K5 will be running 33s with 4" Rough Country springs. I had 35' on my previous 77' with 4" but the lack of panic braking was scarry! I went from 32s to 33s to 35s and the less and less the brakes worked.

    On the current K5 I am preparing to convert to rear disks. We will see how the braking changes.

    Good Luck

    Overdrive
     
  5. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    Overall, I think 33's work better for an otherwise stock Blazer with a 4" lift.......though I do agree that 35's look better. I recently went from 33's to 35's on my 4" lifted Blazer, but the main reason was strictly for off-road performance and I don't drive it on the street very much. I really didn't notice much difference in performance when going to the 35's but I already had lower gears and beefed axles, plus the fenders needed a decent amount of trimming. But I'm sure you would notice a huge difference when going from the stock tires to 35's.
    Whichever way you decide, make sure you install a big auxillary transmission cooler, as keeping the fluid cool is the key to making the 700r4 survive. Also, do not drive with the transmission in overdrive (O/D) unless out on a freeway or long stretch of highway. Otherwise, the larger tires and stock gearing make the trans constantly shift into and out of overdrive which creates a lot of heat and stress on it.
     
  6. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2000
    Posts:
    3,719
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lubbock, TX
    The 35s will definately look better but 3.73 is pretty high for them. Most people with 35s go with 4.56s and people with 33s go with 4.11. The 35s will cause a lot more wear on the axles and tranny and they are about the limit for 10 bolts but bigger tires have on them have survived before. you will also need to trim the fenders a little for 35s to work.

    90K5
     
  7. RaisedK5

    RaisedK5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    932
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA
    My Sister's Burb has 35's with 3.73s and let me tell you, its a dog, its a 90 3/4 ton so its got the th400 and im still worried about frying it, it downshifts way too much, i recently drove it up to colorado,im in california, and man let tell you it was not happy hitting those hills in Utah and Colorado, Loveland Pass, yeah right Semis flying past. Go with lower gears or shorter tires, you and the truck will be much happier.

    RaisedK5

    "Friends don't let friends drive Fords"
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California (Modesto area)
    I am running 33s with 3.73 and SM465 4speed and have no poer issus at all. If I was to goto 35 I would swap in 410 or 456 to help keep the power up..

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
    http://burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,175
    Likes Received:
    1,385
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    I've got an 81 Jimmy, SM465 4 speed , 3.73's, and 35" mudders. First of all it cruises at 2400 rpm, secondly I've never had a problem with lack of power and the 350 is pretty mild, thirdly it kicks ass off-road from mud to rock crawling, and lastly I tow a 5000 lb trailer with it every summer, NO problems. The only problem is at the back edge of the front fender clearance wise when your wheelin, if you don't trim it the first time you flex it the tire will do the job for you. I definitely like my 35's better than the 33's I had. As for braking, if I have to hammer the brakes it will stop hard enough to make you eat the windshield, but then I've got the 14 bolt rear end (bigger brakes)
    Just my 2 cents


    Rene 81 Jimmy,350,SM465,FF14 bolt,HD Dana 44,3.73's,4"susp.,35"Grabber MT's,body in progress
     
  10. Balou

    Balou 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2000
    Posts:
    207
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    back to Germany
    I second that, running 35" with SM 465 and 3.40 gears, cruising/towing at 2000rpm.
    4" lift, rubbing fender only at full flex, hope to solve it with 2" body lift.

    Balou
    "Size DOES matter!!!", said the girl last night.
    http://www.balou.coloradok5.com
     
  11. nyyef

    nyyef 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 16, 2000
    Posts:
    479
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Saudi Arabia
    all my k5s have had SM465s. i use 33" and 3.08s. no problems....and boy do i beat my truck up. i think the only thing that has mad the diffs (12 bolts) is because i do not rock crawl. mild trails and mostly sand dunes (very forgiving that soft stuff). i like 33s w/ 4" lifts for stability, i really dont need that much ground clearance.
    for your 700r, i would recommend going no higher than the 373s that you have. and as mentioned above use a HD cooler with a fan if possible.

    Knife.
    knife.coloradok5.com
     

Share This Page