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35 spline stubs or not?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by crazy_swede_73, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    I'm converting my Dodge dana 60 with external locking hubs to Chevy internal.
    I'm thinking about getting 35 spline stubs but i'm not sure i need it. i'm not a real hardcore offroader but it's not that expensive mod to do only about $140, and since i need new locking hubs i'm thinking why not? they cost about the same as the 30spline ones...so what do you guys think should i go 30 or 35spline????
     
  2. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    i went ahead and went 35 spline at the same time as regearing. it was already apart so y not. you can easily get ur money back if u ever sell the axle as well
     
  3. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    hm that's a good point,,if i ever want to go back to 10bolt :-)
     
  4. ryanstrucking

    ryanstrucking 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If you have the extra $$$$ do it now. May save you $$$ down the road.
    Wish I would have done it when I first built my diffs, Maybe I wouldn't have had to replace my winch then:mad:

    I went all out this year yukon 35 spline inner/outer off a vendor on the Pirate board and a set of 300m u-joints from bobby longfield.:D

    Good luck with your build
     
  5. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    ive heard of people breaking 35 spline hubs... seems that they dont have enough meet when the axle gets that big. a set of chromoly 30 spline may be a better option
     
  6. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    where can i get 30spline molly stubs?..Moser?
     
  7. ryanstrucking

    ryanstrucking 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    :confused:
    Where did you here that?
    Every one I've talked to has had way better results with the 35 spline axles.
     
  8. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    i'm pretty sure i'm not gonna break a hub,,,even a 30spline one. i've had my dodge external hubs for quite a while now, and they're weak compared to internal 30spline. and noisy as hell :D
     
  9. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    not 30 spline hubs, 35 spline hubs breaking. ask koldsmier (sp?) about it. i just say a set go the other week. if your running hubs and not flanges on the 35 spline set than theres not alot of metal in the 35 spline hub because if you think about it its the same outside diameter as a 35 spline hub but the locking material is thinner because the stub is bigger. this is why so many guys run flanges
     
  10. Ronnie4wd

    Ronnie4wd 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I wanna know too because I broke one of my 30 spline locking hubs yesterday.
    It´s one of those with plastic on the outside so now should I go all the way to 35 splines or should I by warn premiums for my 30 splines.
     
  11. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    id say do it only when you break it.. I havent put 35 splines in mine and I got the OLD locking hubs too!!!!!

    hard to tell but so far this hub and stubbies have held up.. and i have recently been whoopin them too!!! :haha:


    [​IMG]
     
  12. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    So maybe the best option is to go with 35spline Warn premium hubs for daily driving and to the trails,,and they switch to Flanges. Better safe then sorry
     
  13. ryanstrucking

    ryanstrucking 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Hey 79.
    My bad. I posted up without reading your reply fully first.
    I understand where you are coming from now.
    When I up graded from 30 spline to 35 spline I also upgraded to a set of drive flanges from NWF. haven't run them yet but from what i here they are pretty tuff and reliable. They also stand behind there products.

    Not sure if you want to go full time hubs but for a trail rig, I think its the only way to go.
    Heres a shot of the flanges/ axles and u-joints

    101_0136.JPG

    DANA 60 UJOINT.jpg
     
  14. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    Nice:D
     
  15. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    if i went 35 spline it would be flanges. if i keep my rig on road/ offroad ill run chromoly 30 splines and my premium hubs. the 30 spline hubs thenselves are stronger thjan the 35 spline hubs. a 30 spline chromoly axle prolly wont be as strong as a 35 spline but its close enough in stregth where i know ill never break em. so for me when i upgrade it will most likely be 30 spline chjromoly and a good set of 30 spline hubs
     
  16. crazy_swede_73

    crazy_swede_73 Registered Member

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    hmm,,,i can't make up my mind, but i'm in no hurry. i just ordered the SRW hubs yesterday and will probably pick up the locking hubs when i go to the States in july. thanks for the info..
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2006
  17. walla2k5

    walla2k5 1/2 ton status

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    I like the idea of the full circle clips. I've seen the "C" clip work their way out and destroy the shaft....:D Is this standard issue with the NWF kit you bought ??
     
  18. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I personally am a fan of 30 spline chromo's and 30 spline locking hubs if you are going to need to run the rig on the street and need hubs. 30 spline Chromo's and stock 35 spline Spicer stubs are pretty much the exact same strength wise and the 30 spline hub is stronger then the 35 spline. So with 30 spline chromo's and 30 spline hubs your axle is actually stronger then 35 spline. Then you do not have to worry about the stub shafts rubbing on the back of the hub dial either and your truck is stronger overall. The last reason to stay 30 spline is that if you break a 30 spline stub you have spare 30 spline stubs that you took off and they will work with your 30 spline hubs.

    If the truck is going to get driveflanges then it is up to you. With driveflanges I would get 35 spliners. This way if you do ever get into the wheeling hard enough and need to upgrade again to 35 spline Chromo's you can without needing new hubs.

    Harley
     
  19. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    exactly if you are going to go with flanges than 35's all thge way but if you need to run street and need to lock and unlock your hubs go chromo 30's and a good 30 spline hub
     
  20. koldsimer

    koldsimer 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Lots of good points have been made in this thread. Just about all of these ideas, thoughts and suggestions were things that I had to seriously consider before throwing so much cash at my front axle. I decided to get drive flanges and warn locking hubs. I have had the warn hubs on the front for about 99% of the time since I got both. The only reason I really wanted the slugs is so that I wouldn't break easily when I went to hardcore spots, long wheeling trips or competitions. I was genuinely concerned about breaking my warns but they have held up well. I have had the front end hopping about a foot off the ground on concrete trying to get traction- chewed up my 42's pretty good but didn't phase the lockouts. Hell, just yesterday we were at the spot in Forrestburg. Tons of breakage- hubs, u-joints, r+p's, t-cases, axleshafts, complete suspensions blowing up etc. I showed up just as soon as my friends were leaving for a run so I just ran my lockouts all say instead of switching to my flanges. I ragged on the truck on a couple of hard trails with no problems. At this point, I know that my hubs are my weak link and i'm fine with that. I'm still pretty confident in how they are holding up so far.
     

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