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35 spline stubs

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by RUSS84K5, Jan 22, 2001.

  1. RUSS84K5

    RUSS84K5 1/2 ton status

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    Steve,
    How difficult will it be to get 35 spline stub shafts onto my Ford D60. I have to get new locking hubs as it is, so I would really like to go 35 spline. Will it cost alot more or is it a design difficulty? Also do you carry and at what price, the HD shafts for the same axle. I have seen skinny ones and fat ones.
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I'm not sure what we can get for Ford inner axles, see if you can get me a bill of materials # and I'll see what I can find.
    The stubs are going to be a problem, I know for sure. Fords are just too short compared to the GM's. I know some folks cutting the GM shaft off and just going for it, but it does reduce the spline engagement, so a wait and see attitude might be wise. A full time gear might present some more options for keeping more engagement.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  3. ROCKBUGGYK5

    ROCKBUGGYK5 1/2 ton status

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    u cant cut the stub shaft because u will lose the snapring grove, ive tried to do it,it cant be done
    adam

    ROCKBUGGY K5 38S LOCKED AND CHOPPED
     
  4. RUSS84K5

    RUSS84K5 1/2 ton status

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    So swapping GM nuckles, spindles,hubs, and breaks is the only way at this time to get 35 spine stubs onto my Ford 60? If you have 35 spline stubs, what breaks next? And are the nuckles a direct swap?

    Thanks agin to all you guys for the info.
     
  5. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I've seen the GM's cut off and stuck in a Ford front, you have to recut the groove if you want to run the snapring. It's marginal, so we'll see how it works.
    You may want all GM outers anyway, it's easier to fit the wheel over the brakes, but it is a pain. I thought I might be using a Ford front for my k5 and was planning to swap the ford parts to my crewcab, it won't care since it will have 16" wheels. But I'm not doing that now. You might be able to find someone to do the same maybe.

    I've talked to a couple of guys with the 35 spl. outers and the locking hub seems to go first, unless you use a spicer hub, or a drive gear. Then you seem to break ujoints or pull the ujoint out of the factory axle ears. It sounds like you have to get pretty crazy with it to do that. The 30 spline stub might be a decent place to have a weak link, except that when it goes you might loose the locking hub, and might also jam the thing in the spindle and ruin some other really expensive parts.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  6. realsquash

    realsquash 1/2 ton status

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  7. RUSS84K5

    RUSS84K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the URL for Performence Unlimited. I just called them and they told me that the stubs that they make are 499.00 EACH. Billett construction. I don't think I'll go for those. But thanks for the lead.
     
  8. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Talked to a guy that's put the GM stubs in a ford front, he estimates about 1" of spline engagement, so I think it's going to hold up just fine. That's all most of the full time gears get and they don't strip out. I think that's the best answer. Cut down inners or billet stubs are a pretty pricey option for non-competition vehicles, and even at that $500 for a stub is too pricey for something that can be wasted by a broken ujoint.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     

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