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350 Engine Removal Advice

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by RainBlazer, Aug 29, 2005.

  1. RainBlazer

    RainBlazer Registered Member

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    I've never pulled a motor on a 4X4 so I'm looking for some advice on my 72 Blazer.
    - Pull the motor only - Difficult to get at the top two trans bolts.
    - Pull motor & trans. - Difficult to get at the top two transfer case bolts.
    - Pull motor, trans, & Transfer case. - Too much weight on the motor.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. neverendingproject

    neverendingproject 1/2 ton status

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    Just get some jack stands, jack the motor up like you are going to pull the tranny too. put the jack under the tranny to the point where it is close to the transmission hump (will help when you put the motor back in) and just pull the motor. I wouldnt pull anything else unless you plan on rebuilding them.
     
  3. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Motor only...

    I've pulled them all 3 ways...its best to just yank the motor separately--its too heavy and awkward doing both the motor and tranny together in my opinion,especially if your alone,and weigh less than 200 lbs like me!...

    Its nearly impossible to pull all 3 still bolted together--its 1000 lbs,(maybe more with a 4 speed!)and the transfer case makes it so long,you might not have room enough to snake it out before hitting the radiator support!..the only truck I did that way had the nose completely off--and the tranny cracked where the T-case bolts to it!..too much weight for the aluminum case to bear.. :doah: :mad:

    Its much easier to pull the motor only..the upper bell housing bolts can be reached easier by crawling under the truck,and sitting up where the rear driveshaft goes--look over the top of the transfer case--you can see the bolts!--a long extention(or several taped together) about 3ft long reaches then fairly easy(compared to doing it from above)...they look worse than they are--try removing a motor from a late model FWD car,or a GM car like a Monte Carlo,and tell me which one sucks more!(hint--the older GM trucks are by far THE easiset motor to remove of any I've done!--but that does not mean its "easy"--its just not as bad!).. :crazy:

    Be sure to support the tranny when you pull the motor!--and if its an automatic,put a wire across the tranny bell housing to keep the converter from falling out..that will save a gallon of tranny fluid from spilling--and your temper from rising!.. :doah: :crazy:
     
  4. Roz

    Roz 1/2 ton status

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    i like pulling the tranny and motor together- ive done it by myself (6'4" 235lbs). easier to put together without marring or hoping u got pump locked by ureself. u can also reach the top tranny botls through the floor shifter opening if u go that way.
     
  5. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    I would say just the motor. The most frustrating engine pull I have ever done was on my Fiero. You have to jack the rear of the car about 4ft in the air and lower the engine/trans/rear suspension as one piece. Surprisingly it was really easy but just felt "odd" doing it that way, but it all comes out as a compact unit and makes it very convenient to work on. I kinda wish our trucks had a similar design.
     
  6. trailblazr81

    trailblazr81 1/2 ton status

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    Ive pulled 'em outta Fyord trucks, AMC's (wasnt mine), a 69 Chevelle, 72 Nova, 81 K5, and most recently my 73 K20. Easiest is motor only. I would only do motor and tranny if I was replacing the tranny as well. I used a boxed end wrench to get the top 2 bell housing bolts. Its easier to do with distributor removed. Just kinda sit on yer intake and git-r-done. For my last 2 pulls I welded about a foot of flat stock to the 9/16 box end to make getting those top 2 bellhousing bolts easier. I look for any excuse to...
    :grind: :weld: :hack: Is that wrong?? :dunno:
     
  7. 70jimmy

    70jimmy 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I would just pull what you have to. If its just to work or replace motor just pull that.

    Also in case you are not aware the 72 should have a removeable tranny hump cover. Pull back the carpet and pad and about 10 bolts hold a cover over the floor which provides good access to bellhousing bolts. If you get some long bolts that are the same diameter as bell housing bolts when you put motor back in just put 2 like 6 or 8 inch bolts through holes in tranny and when you get motor down low enough screw them into the block of motor and then slide motor into place. I ussually use the two holes closest to the ground.
     
  8. RainBlazer

    RainBlazer Registered Member

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    Thanks!

    I really appreciate all of the feedback. I've pulled manual transmissions before, but never an automatic. I would have been pissed if and when the torque convertor fell out!!!!!!
    I also did not know that there was a trans cover under the carpet. I was going to change out the carpet, but that was down there on my list of things to do. Taking the carpet out will be moving up the list now!
    I'm going to go the route of removing the engine only. I sat on top of the engine, and I think that I can get to the top two trans bolts if the distributer is pulled.
    Thanks again for all the thoughts. Sometimes you just need a few whispers in your ear to get you going again.
     
  9. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Wait!!

    You never did an automatic before??..then you might not be aware there are 3 bolts holding the flywheel/flexplate to the torque converter!--if you dont take them off,the converter will come out WITH the engine!..and I dont think you want THAT to happen!.. :eek1: :crazy: you have to pry the converter away from the flexplate after you remove the bolts,or it might "stick" to the crankshaft,and slide out of the tranny!.. :crazy:
     
  10. down4thakrown

    down4thakrown 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    if you take the frnt clip off, it makes everything easier.
     
  11. ak bandit

    ak bandit 1/2 ton status

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    What he said...Check out how much room there is with the front clip off...This is my '72 Blazer...

    [​IMG]
     
  12. RainBlazer

    RainBlazer Registered Member

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    Automatic.

    I knew just enough to get myself in trouble, that's why I posted. I already had the three bolts removed from the flexplate. I figured they would be easier to remove while the motor was solidly fixed in place. I really didn't want to remove the trans, because of the mess. To the best of my knowledge, you have to drop the pan to empty the trans. Then you still have fluid that will run out the tail when the engine is lifted. I never even considered the possibility of the torque converter coming out with the engine. But of course it will, because of the tight fit. I may still end up with a mess, but it won't be because I wasn't warned.


    Thanks Again.
     
  13. PeteH

    PeteH 1/2 ton status

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    i did mine by just taking the engine out(super easy).. but some people have problems lining it back up with the tranny when installling it.
     
  14. adamforsythe

    adamforsythe 1/2 ton status

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    I drop the T-case and pull the engine and tranny together. Most of the time I have to man handle the engine and tranny to get it out away of stuff in the engine compartment.
    Thanks
    Adam
    .
     
  15. adamforsythe

    adamforsythe 1/2 ton status

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    It is not hard reinstalling the TC. I never touched a auto tranny in my life. Just as long as you know the basics you will be fine. I would reinstall a TC any day.
    But I am kinda scared of those clutches. :crazy:
    Thanks
    Adam

     

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